V6 Custom Turbo Buildup

[seth98esT]

What fuel pump?

[Jet Black]

Stock for now. 190 lph waiting to be dropped in.

[peanotation]

john's got my bov....you'll have my wideband and afpr.....lol, why can't MYYYY car be turbo :cry:

[NelsonC]

:smileysex: <--me and your car. Well looks like were gonna have a kick ass winter meet and i get a test drive! dibs. gas is on me : D

[4-G-rim]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(peanotation)</div><div class='quotemain'>john's got my bov....you'll have my wideband and afpr.....lol, why can't MYYYY car be turbo Â*:cry:</div>

I just hope Jet Black doesn't get the same fate as your Matt. I am referring to those Cali vehicle inspection deals.

Vidz of the car running on the new setup!!!

[Jet Black]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(NelsonC)</div><div class='quotemain'>:smileysex: Â*<--me and your car. Â*Well looks like were gonna have a kick ass winter meet and i get a test drive! dibs. gas is on me : D</div>

Haha for sure dude. You get the gas, I'll cover the <span style='color:green'>other stuff.</span>

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(4-G-rim)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(peanotation)</div><div class='quotemain'>john's got my bov....you'll have my wideband and afpr.....lol, why can't MYYYY car be turbo Â*:cry:</div>

I just hope Jet Black doesn't get the same fate as your Matt. I am referring to those Cali vehicle inspection deals.

Vidz of the car running on the new setup!!!</div>

Honestly, its hard to quantify how much I fear that scenario. Thats about the ONLY reason that I'm not modifying my stock parts right now.

Well we got a few videos so far. My wideband is coming on tuesday, and then the fun really begins.

Ok time for a real update to whats been going on for the last few days:

After the whole oil spill drama, I returned my fuel system back to stock. With the stock system, I finally got the car to somewhat run with no less than 4 codes (O2 sensor, O2 heater, MAP sensor, IAT sensor), and multiple vacuum leaks. The O2 codes are due to the fact that my rear bank O2 sensor isn't hooked up (no bung in place on these manifolds ~ order one already). The MAP codes was due to the vacuum leaks. And finally the IAT might have something to do with me dropping the MAS onto the floor like an idiot. Also my Emanage was throwing a MAF error as well. And the icing on the cake was the fact that my 3">2.5" 90* coupler was too big for the throttle body. Turns out the throttle body requires a 2.75" coupler. Since no one seems to make 2.75">2.5" 90* bends, I went ahead and order a straight coupler. I figure I would relocate the battery and run a better intake setup with less elbows.

So with all this, and a fucked up section of charge pipe*, Matt, Ash, and I set out for a test drive (actually we went to get some gas for my car). Somewhere along the drive, the fucked up section of charge pipe* popped off. Luckily I brought the stock intake with me, and we returned it back to NA. We got a small video of what it sounded like at idle.

Next day, same shit. We were still struggling with the fucked up section of charge pipe* as it would refuse to stay put. Ash then suggested that we trade my hard pipe for his stock flex pipe from his GS-T. This was a god send. A few cuts here and there and it was complete. That immediatly solved my problem with the fucked up section of charge pipe* popping off. For the 2.75" coupler, I found that it fit perfectly within the 3" coupler. So I cut it in half, and slid it over the TB. Then I slid the 3" over the 2.75", which made an excellent seal.

{As a side note, I really wonder WTF does Mitsubishi get their braided intake hoses? I love that shit, even if it bloats out worst than a newly wed wife, it still really easy to use.}

The car still refused to go past 0 psi.

So we moved on to capping all the boost leaks. After buying the proper size hose (the stuff I was originally using was too big by hair), the car began to run MUCH better. The exhaust was still too loud for me to be able to drive it anywhere distant. That would be fixed down the road.

Next up was the intake setup. Turns out that the Supra BOV I was using was mounted backwards. Same with the placement of the vacuum line on the Tial (we put it on the top...which is meant for a boost controller). Now I've corrected those problems, as well as the exhaust problems, I've yet to take it out for another ride. The exhaust is routed back into the stock 2.25" exhaust...which is seemingly terrible. Also the charge pipe that leads to the TB runs right over the compressor, and as such it heats right back up. Luckily I have 50ft of heat wrap, which I'll use after I smooth down the welds.

More updates soon. I'm going to try to hook up the VR4 fuel system again today.

[seth98esT]

Sounds like you guys are ironing out most everything. Is your turbo internally gated or are you using an external? Im too lazy to check.

[Jet Black]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(seth98esT)</div><div class='quotemain'>Sounds like you guys are ironing out most everything. Â*Is your turbo internally gated or are you using an external? Â*Im too lazy to check.</div>

Yep thats basicly it. Slowly getting all the problems worked out one by one.

Right now I'm running an external Tial 38mm.

[DryBear]

FYI, I was able to fit the 2.5" elbow onto my TB by using some WD-40, and a bit of patience, but yeah, a 2.75 would fit perfectly - my old AEM WAI had a 2.75" elbow BTW.

Your idle sounds like how mine was when I had miswired the eManage - if I remember correctly, I had hooked up one of the wires that was not used instead of one of the wires for the airflow signal :blush:

Nice progress, man - you still going to do the manual swap? The last of my parts arrive on Monday so I can finally finish then.

[peanotation]

how do your hands feel :?:

[Jet Black]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DryBear)</div><div class='quotemain'>FYI, I was able to fit the 2.5" elbow onto my TB by using some WD-40, and a bit of patience, but yeah, a 2.75 would fit perfectly - my old AEM WAI had a 2.75" elbow BTW.

Your idle sounds like how mine was when I had the airflow input/output wires going the wrong way on the eManage.

Nice progress, man - you still going to do the manual swap? The last of my parts arrive on Monday so I can finally finish then.</div>

Well I'll look into that. Though I installed the emanage about a year ago and never had any problems. But then again, that was with no injector correction.

Another possibility is the lack of a rear O2. Its stuck in open loop, when it should be closed. Also that video was shot with the vacuum leaks.

[Jet Black]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(peanotation)</div><div class='quotemain'>how do your hands feel Â*:?:</div>

They feel like I just jammed my hands into a jar of glass shards and squeezed.

BTW what are you doing today?

[Jet Black]

One Minute Update:

Over the last few days I've (we've) been steadily tackling one problem after another. The boost gauge works fine after I tapped it into another vacuum source (*note*). Insofar I've hit a ground shattering 2 psi. At one point it even creeped up to 4 (directly after going to 2nd). Despite the boost, I'm still fairly impressed with the car's performance. 50-80 mph is the sweet spot in which it pulls harder than ever. I should add that it spools up quicker than I expected....in spite of the boost leaks, and the 2.25" stock piping that the downpipe is routed to (car is a lot more drivable now).

On the other hand, the boost leaks are seriously fucking me over bad. I found a on old bicycle pump and cut off the end of it. Turns out the rubber tube fits perfectly over the vacuum hose T. The flux core welds don't have as many leaks as I anticipated. But this is probably because I can't detect them, as I am unable to keep the whole manifold pressurised.

---Few days later---

Today I dropped the whole manifold and may have found the problems. It seems that the manifold welds very well sealed. Though the leaks are happening between the manifold flanges...I forgot to install the gaskets. :evil: I can see thick black soot running between the pipes flanges. At every flange (total of 4, before the turbo exhaust inlet), there are clear signs of leaking exhaust gasses. Everytime the manifold would begin to pressurize, the gasses would leak right out of the flanges. Well now I'm off to Home Depot to search for some copper sheets to make gaskets out of.

Either way, after fixing the leaks, if I continue to have problems, then I will be swapping out the T4 for the T3. The T3 is practically guaranteed insta-spool.


*note* The vacuum diagrams show that the small hoses are all supposed to be running off the manifolds vacuum. While they do see vacuum, they only see a fraction of the total vacuum.

[peanotation]

if home depot doesn't have anything, i bought a sheet of a gasket material at napa for like $30 and you can cut any gasket you want. i think once you get that fixed you should be able to boost normally....

[DOHCstunr]

just use a few coats of copper spray on all the gaskets you make.
i bought a big sheet of exhaust gasket material like peano got.
it works great.
for extra protection i spray them with copper spray.

note...
the copper spray has to bake in.. to make a long lasting bond/seal.

until its carbonized, it will be like a bubbling liquid(once its hot). too much exhaust pressure may cause it to blow out.

so the best thing to do is after you get everythgin bolted down.
start the car up and let it idle for 10 minutes or so.
until the smoke starts to reside.
after that,
let it cool for 20 minutes or so befopre you take it for a low rpm test drive. drive ti for a few miles. go home and park it.
after it sits it will be good as gold with zero leaks.


Whats the inner diameter of your boost/vac lines?
are you using zip ties to secure them on the nipples?


when you do your boost leak test.
try capping off your breather(if that changes anything, then you have a leaking pcv valve)
pcv valves leak
all the damn time
its one of thopse cursed boost leaks you can't get around w/o either trying 9 out of 10 OEM dealer pcv valves.... or doing a entirely different race only breather setup.

also,
try capping off your bov,
also, put a brick on yoru gas pedal so the throttle is open so that the system is pressurized evenly.

other places to look for:
throttle body shaft seals(once you hear a hiss by your throttle, try working the plate back and forth... if the note changes, then its yoru seals)

throttle body gasket

intake manni gaskets

plenum gasket

fuel injector lower seals (the rubber donuts that go between the injector and the head)

that shoudl get your started. those ar the most major.

[underated]

im glad your doing this yourself... i couldnt imagine how much this would cost at a shop.

vacuum/boost leaks are a pain in the ass its not possible to use a bike pump to cheack the leaks i found that out the hard way too

are you using regular clamps or t-bolts?

i ended up using carb cleaner while the car was running to find all my leaks... it ended up being the injector seals and tb gaskets

hope you get this running right i know its pretty fustrating right now but its all worth it in the end

[Stewi]

I made a boost leak "tester" from PVC pipe and barb fittings from home depot. I just let my air compressor run low until it was about 40psi, then I slid a silcone coupler over the tester and the turbo and I pressurized the entire system like that. At that point its really really easy to find leaks.

[seth98esT]

Yah, I made a PVC tester too, but I added a valve and a gauge so I knew how much pressure was going through

[Jet Black]

First off, DOHC-> Best Post Ever! This should be a sticky.

Ok so I'll try to purchase some of the gasket paper, though idk who sells it around here. The local Napa is the size of my closet, the Pep Boys only has neon-colored DIY intake kits, and autozone doesn't exist anywhere close by. If I can't find it, I might still go with straight copper sheeting. When I first got my manifold, the edges still had some orange RTV on them (good condition too, still rubbery). Considering that these manifolds were used for some 40k miles before I aquired them, I think I'll give that a try as well (it wasn't even the hi-temp stuff).

My vac lines are the same size as the smaller ones (not sure of the ID) that rest on the back of the plenum. Though they are sourced at a thicker line that runs directly into the plenum.

Good call on the PCV. I'll go ahead and reroute it back into the intake. With a 120k miles (most of them were abusive miles) thats definetly not out of the question. I don't know if this means anything, but I can blow/such through the PCV tube with a little effort.

The BOV is from a stock TT Supra. Which afaik is not meant to be vented. Right now I'm venting as I have no room to route the bov line back. This could also be a potential problem so I'll go ahead and cap it off temporarily.

I STRONGLY suspect the TB seals to be shot. I've been reading some DSM tutorials of leaktests with the throttle plate closed, and they seem to be able to pressurize the intake system without it leaking past the TB immediatly. While they can keep the intake pressurized for nearly two minutes, I can't hold any pressure at all (I can pump up to 10 psi, but it drops to zero almost immediatly). Also I clearly hear the sound you are talking about. I've heard it multiple times but didn't think anything of it till now.

Anyways I now have a new motor sitting in my garage. It has 41k miles, so its basicly in excellent condition (probably dealership serviced since its still under 60k). I'll begin to swap over the whole upper intake manifold, including the throttle body.

I'll keep you guys updated.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>just use a few coats of copper spray on all the gaskets you make.
i bought a big sheet of exhaust gasket material like peano got.
it works great.
for extra protection i spray them with copper spray.

note...
the copper spray has to bake in.. to make a long lasting bond/seal.

until its carbonized, it will be like a bubbling liquid(once its hot). too much exhaust pressure may cause it to blow out.

so the best thing to do is after you get everythgin bolted down.
start the car up and let it idle for 10 minutes or so.
until the smoke starts to reside.
after that,
let it cool for 20 minutes or so befopre you take it for a low rpm test drive. Â*drive ti for a few miles. go home and park it.
after it sits it will be good as gold with zero leaks.


Whats the inner diameter of your boost/vac lines?
are you using zip ties to secure them on the nipples?


when you do your boost leak test.
try capping off your breather(if that changes anything, Â*then you have a leaking pcv valve)
pcv valves leak Â*
all the damn time
its one of thopse cursed boost leaks you can't get around w/o either trying 9 out of 10 OEM dealer pcv valves.... or doing a entirely different race only breather setup.

also,
try capping off your bov,
also, put a brick on yoru gas pedal so the throttle is open so that the system is pressurized evenly.

other places to look for:
throttle body shaft seals(once you hear a hiss by your throttle, try working the plate back and forth... if the note changes, then its yoru seals) Â*

throttle body gasket

intake manni gaskets

plenum gasket

fuel injector lower seals (the rubber donuts that go between the injector and the head)

that shoudl get your started. those ar the most major.</div>

[Jet Black]

http://socallifestyle.com/tgc_posts/9psi.wmv