Tearstone V6 Turbo Kit (Lots of Pics)

[DryBear]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Goandeatsomestuff)</div><div class='quotemain'>ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

do it do it. Â*I can't wait to see the finished product. Â*What psi do you expect to be running? Also, did you build up your engine at all for this?</div>

The wastegate is preset to 8 PSI, and I can't safely go any higher unless I build up my engine, which is completely stock.

[Tearstone]

Len,

It looks like you have more than enough room to keep your stock driver's side fan in. Have you tried to put it back in yet? This kit was specifically designed to maintain the use of the stock fans unlike the older xtech kits in which the fan was required to be removed. If you remove that stock fan you will run into overheating problems with your setup.

[DryBear]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Tearstone)</div><div class='quotemain'>Len,

It looks like you have more than enough room to keep your stock driver's side fan in. Have you tried to put it back in yet? This kit was specifically designed to maintain the use of the stock fans unlike the older xtech kits in which the fan was required to be removed. If you remove that stock fan you will run into overheating problems with your setup.</div>

I did reinstall the fan and the turbo, but the turbo flange is touching the fan:


The space between the turbo flange and the radiator is 4.5", and the width of the driver's side fan is just under 4.5". I'm picking up a slimline fan to replace the driver's side fan that I removed, so hopefully that will take care of my heating issues.

Makes me wonder - I know that there is a lot more room in between the firewall and rear of the engine on the Galant than the Eclipse, but I wonder if the same holds for the space from the radiator to the front of the engine...

Did you get my last couple of e-mails, Russ?

[DrewPinoy85]

wow your install seems to be coming along nicely

[Tearstone]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(wanderingpinoy)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Tearstone)</div><div class='quotemain'>Len,

It looks like you have more than enough room to keep your stock driver's side fan in. Have you tried to put it back in yet? This kit was specifically designed to maintain the use of the stock fans unlike the older xtech kits in which the fan was required to be removed. If you remove that stock fan you will run into overheating problems with your setup.</div>

I did reinstall the fan and the turbo, but the turbo flange is touching the fan:


The space between the turbo flange and the radiator is 4.5", and the width of the driver's side fan is just under 4.5". I'm picking up a slimline fan to replace the driver's side fan that I removed, so hopefully that will take care of my heating issues.

Makes me wonder - I know that there is a lot more room in between the firewall and rear of the engine on the Galant than the Eclipse, but I wonder if the same holds for the space from the radiator to the front of the engine...

Did you get my last couple of e-mails, Russ?</div>

That's a good question. Do me a favor and measure the distance from your radiator to your valve cover. I'll do the same on my car and we'll compare notes. Also, did you loosen all of your piping (where it is connected to the front & rear manifolds) to move the flange around a bit to alter the fitment of the flange in front of the fan? We have only had 4 cylinder galants at the shop, but these things are good to know.

I check emails around 6:00pm EST everyday.

[Tearstone]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DrewPinoy85)</div><div class='quotemain'>wow your install seems to be coming along nicely </div>

This is OT: But I like your car. I want a Northstar White Galant

[DryBear]

Just wanted to give an update:

Installed injectors (x6) + fuel rail spacers (x4)

(440ccs on the left, stock on the right)



Gapped spark plugs to 0.40 (x6)

Exhaust piping test fitted

1 set of O2 wires extended (lower front)

extra bung for wideband sensor welded in

TBD:
complete oil lines (feed+drain)
refill oil
refill coolant
complete injector harness (x6)
install colder spark plugs (x6)
reinstall plenium
complete O2 wire extension (lower rear)
install vac lines to wastegate, BOV, and boost sensor
install fuel pressure sensor
install wideband sensor
install Zeitronix ZT-2 wideband
install Greddy eManage
Double check connections for everything

A lot of those tasks are pretty quick/strightforward, most complex would be the eManage.

Someone had asked where I routed the wires to my gauges in the cabin - I used a hole that the guys who installed my alarm made in the firewall:


I'll get more pics of everything tonight.

[underated]

looks good Len your almost finished the emanage shouldnt be too hard you got both harnesses right? have you seen napalm's write up on installing it?

[Tearstone]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(underated)</div><div class='quotemain'>looks good Len your almost finished the emanage shouldnt be too hard you got both harnesses right? have you seen napalm's write up on installing it?</div>

Naplam's write up is for 4 banger.

Check out this thread, complete with pics for the V6 E-Manage install: http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47869

<span style='color:RoyalBlue'>Blue E-Manage</span> Installation for the 3G GT

Internal Jumpers should be in the stock positions

JP1 = 1 - 2
JP2 = 1 - 2
JP3 = 1 - 2
JP4 = OPEN
JP5 = OPEN
JP6 = OPEN
JP7 = 1 - 2

The dipswith setting is 5,8,4

5 stands for 6cyl Distributor.
8,4 is MKII Karmon Vortex

Read the pins left to right, top to bottom. Consider the far left plug A, the next B and so on. All pins are from the wire side of the connector. The clip side is the top. Remember that even empty pins count.

Please do not make a post that the FSM does not state A,B,C,D. The FSM numbering is oddball. A is 1-35. B is 40-66. C is 71-98. D is 101-130. (This is for a A/T ECU) This factory numbering is easier to lose count so I renumbered my schematics for ease of use.

INJ 1...........................A1 YEL/BLU
INJ2............................A9 YEL/RED
INJ3............................A24 YEL/BLK
INJ4............................A2 GRN/YEL
INJ5............................A10 GRN/RED
INJ6............................A25 LT GRN
INJ GRND....................B6 M/T B2 A/T BLK
DISTRIBUTOR(t)..........A11 BLU/BLK
TPS.............................C8 YEL
AIRFLOW....................B21 M/T B25 A/T WHT/GRN
RPM............................B3 M/T B5 A/T GREEN/RED
GROUND.....................B18 M/T B8 A/T BLK
12V.............................C29 M/T C28 A/T BLK/WHT

The pinouts for A/T are the same for Sportronic or Non

Below are diagrams made by Dave from Club3G Florida

[underated]

oh yah i forget he has a 4cyl mybad

[DryBear]

Yeah, I'm getting most of my install references from Club3G/Club3G Florida forums

A few more pics as promised...

Exhaust piping done except for rear bank collector and wastegate:

As you can see I had a muffler shop weld in a bung for my wideband sensor (seen with the wire hanging out of it) - they screwed up the finish a bit :evil:, but at least I've got my wideband.

Oil feed assembly with the stock oil pressure sensor:


Oil feed installed in the original position of the stock oil pressure sensor:


Oil feed and downpipe attached to turbo:


Ran into a problem this evening - the turbo sits a bit over the transmission housing - the manual control lever of the park/neutral position switch is touching the turbo while in park:



I am wondering - can I remove the control lever, and grind it down a bit to clear the turbo - it looks like the length is more for alignment, so I am thinking it is safe. Comments?

Addendum:
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Tearstone)</div><div class='quotemain'>...Do me a favor and measure the distance from your radiator to your valve cover. I'll do the same on my car and we'll compare notes. Also, did you loosen all of your piping (where it is connected to the front & rear manifolds) to move the flange around a bit to alter the fitment of the flange in front of the fan? We have only had 4 cylinder galants at the shop, but these things are good to know.

I check emails around 6:00pm EST everyday.</div>

I did try to move the piping around a bit, but still apparently too tight for the stock Galant fan. I measured the distance from the radiator to the valve cover and it came out to 7":

(looks a bit less than 7" in the pic, but thats just because of the perspective)

Anyway, I did pick up a slimline fan (Hayden 3690), though, and will put that in. Anyone know the CFM of the stock driver's side fan?

[ES-Turbo]

Looks like it's coming along pretty good. Here's a few tips.

For the lower radiator hose, you don't need to run it over top like that, you can just cut about two inches off of the end of the hose that attaches to the engine and move the transmission cooler lines around a bit. That will allow the hose to clear the turbine inlet tubing. It only needs about an inch of clearance and it will be fine.

The fan issue shouldnt be happening but if it is you can remove the electrical assembly from the fan and mount it around the frame rail area. It disconnects fairly easily and all you'll need to do is add two wires with simple spade connectors.

The transmission bracket shouldnt be a problem either. Are you sure you have the compressor housing of the turbo rotated to the correct position. It should be positioned so that the discharge is sitting at a 45 degree angle. Rotating it should give you some more clearance at the bracket area because of the way the housing is shaped. If all else fails than you can certainly trim the bracket down.

The brass tee on your oil feed system is not using an 1/8 npt to 1/8 bspt adapter. You have it screwed in directly to the oil filter housing. The tee is 1/8 npt and will not normally thread far enough into the oil filter housing because it uses 1/8" bspt. You should have received an adapter with it. If it's only in there by three or four threads there is a possibility of it breaking loose.

Looks great, good luck with the rest of the install.

[DryBear]

Looks like it's coming along pretty good. Here's a few tips.

For the lower radiator hose, you don't need to run it over top like that, you can just cut about two inches off of the end of the hose that attaches to the engine and move the transmission cooler lines around a bit. That will allow the hose to clear the turbine inlet tubing. It only needs about an inch of clearance and it will be fine.

I actually flipped the lower radiator hose as Tearstone had suggested, and I have a lot more clearance.

The fan issue shouldnt be happening but if it is you can remove the electrical assembly from the fan and mount it around the frame rail area. It disconnects fairly easily and all you'll need to do is add two wires with simple spade connectors.

Good tip - its is actaully the electrical assembly that is running into the turbo - I'll have to try that tonight.

The transmission bracket shouldnt be a problem either. Are you sure you have the compressor housing of the turbo rotated to the correct position. It should be positioned so that the discharge is sitting at a 45 degree angle. Rotating it should give you some more clearance at the bracket area because of the way the housing is shaped. If all else fails than you can certainly trim the bracket down.

Yeah, the discharge is rotated 45 degrees down - the bracket is touching the round part of the turbo rather than the flat area of the discharge part. I do believe that lever is going to meet Mr. Grinder tonight.

The brass tee on your oil feed system is not using an 1/8 npt to 1/8 bspt adapter. You have it screwed in directly to the oil filter housing. The tee is 1/8 npt and will not normally thread far enough into the oil filter housing because it uses 1/8" bspt. You should have received an adapter with it. If it's only in there by three or four threads there is a possibility of it breaking loose.

Looks great, good luck with the rest of the install.

The brass tee actually went in fine, but I will keep an eye on it.

Thanks!

[Tearstone]

The fan issue shouldnt be happening but if it is you can remove the electrical assembly from the fan and mount it around the frame rail area. It disconnects fairly easily and all you'll need to do is add two wires with simple spade connectors.

That's a good idea and required if using another fan anyways.

Len, I would shy away from using a different fan because a different fan won't have the shroud to come with it to direct air over a larger surface of the radiator.

I hate that you have to modify parts that were not meant to be modified to this degree as the kit was designed specifically to decrease the amount of stock parts you have to tear up to get it in.

I'm still working on getting instructions for the intercooler tubing in.

[DryBear]

The fan issue shouldnt be happening but if it is you can remove the electrical assembly from the fan and mount it around the frame rail area. It disconnects fairly easily and all you'll need to do is add two wires with simple spade connectors.

That's a good idea and required if using another fan anyways.

Len, I would shy away from using a different fan because a different fan won't have the shroud to come with it to direct air over a larger surface of the radiator.

I hate that you have to modify parts that were not meant to be modified to this degree as the kit was designed specifically to decrease the amount of stock parts you have to tear up to get it in.

I'm still working on getting instructions for the intercooler tubing in.

I have no problem hacking up parts, plus I didn't expect it to be a 100% fit, but it sure is damn close - don't get me wrong, I am really happy with this kit and how it has everything (except for consumables like spark plugs and sealants) thown in.

As noted by another member, I don't have the rear collector in yet, so the alignment on the piping may shift - either way - this kit is getting finished one way or another! :twisted:

[SinSere]

Looking great man. Nothin wrong with a lil modifiying. Thanks for the pics, was wondering how everything was gonna fit in there.

[Jet Black]

Looking great man. Nothin wrong with a lil modifiying. Thanks for the pics, was wondering how everything was gonna fit in there.

Ya seriously. The number of turns in the piping (atleast my old xtech piping) hurts my head.

[DryBear]

Progress:
Well, I found out a bit late that I was short an injector harness clip, and I haven't received the missing one yet :cry:
Finished off what I could, though. Cold Heat soldering irons suck - butane powered soldering irons r0x0rs!


Took apart the drivers side fan, and confirmed that the control module is seperate from the motor, plus it looks like I could use standard spade connectors:


Closeup of control module connection to fan motor:


Had to modify some spade connectors to fit by compressing/trimming them:

Bottom left: regular spade connector
Bottom middle: plastic insulation cut away
Bottom right: metal connection compressed to fit

Completed extension:


No more clearance problems - thanks for the tip ES-Turbo!


Still waiting for instructions on installing the intercooler piping, but after talking with Tearstone, it appears that the piping actually runs up and behind the crash bar, just above where the intercooler itself would sit. Some sample pics - not the best but tearstone is working on getting some more detailed ones:



Right now I'm trying to remove the center bar that holds the power steering cooling loop as pictured below:


I have removed all visible bolts in the front, but it still is attached - are there any bolts behind it? I'm wondering if it is welded in on the 02-03 years, as I think Underated said he just unbolted his. :?

[underated]

aww your is a little different then mine. mine doesnt have the second bend near the crash bar but i didnt unbolt the whole thing just that bottom 12mm then pulled the bracket out alittle and slid the power steering loop down and behind it...

are you trying to take the whole thing off?

[Tearstone]

aww your is a little different then mine. mine doesnt have the second bend near the crash bar but i didnt unbolt the whole thing just that bottom 12mm then pulled the bracket out alittle and slid the power steering loop down and behind it...

are you trying to take the whole thing off?

I called him on the phone immediately to tell him to hold off on removing that piece because that's what stablizes your hood latch. On the older 4 cylinder kits you were supposed to remove a section of that bar but the FMIC had the flanges welded on to reestablish the rigidity of that bar.