TearStone-8g I-4 Turbo Info 4/3 update pics/ vid/ #'s

[DOHCstunr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(peanotation)</div><div class='quotemain'>measure from your fuel rail to proposed fpr location, then a little extra for the return line</div>

just buy like 2 or 3 feet or somthing. you are going to ahve 6to assemble the line anyways. if you don't get braided line, its very easy to cut to length. just tell them you need a line that is capable of withstanding 60-70 psi continuos with a burst strength around 150 psi. temp really only needs to be 200 degrees which iws pretty much any hose.
make sure they know it will be holding gasoline.

but first and foremost, figure out where you want to mount it.
then figure what angles you need. most likely if you are going to put it on the firewall you can get away with 2 90* angles.
if you do each fitting in one step make sure that you use swivel fittings. that way you will be able to orient the hose any ay you wish w/o overtightening.
try to do it in one step. so you would need one 908 female -6 an to barb fitting(3/8" barb most likley(this one bolts onto the fuel rail adapter) then one 90* 3/8 barb to male -6(this one goes into the regulator) then one -6 an plug. and a straight -6 to 3/8 barb(or whatever angle will send the fuel return line back to the stock hard line.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

i also been told i can do it this way???

There is no need for block of plates, hardlines, or that adapter. All you do is you buy like 6-10 feet of 1/4" line or 5/8" line (something like Goodyear) fuel line is fine. Connect the new line that runs from the stock fpr then run it to the new fpr, then cap one of the inlets then run new line for the return line to the stock hard line.

[peanotation]

i've never heard of two FPRs, that sounds rediculous. maybe someone can prove me wrong though

[seth98esT]

With the Aeromotive AFPR, theres no need for the stock FPR. Not sure if you can raise the FP with the stocker still on. Just get the adapter plate, 2 90" barbed fittings(one for the rail, one for the AFRP), and one straight barbed fitting(to go back to the stock hardline). For the 7gers its easy, can mount the AFPR on the firewall right behind the fuel rail so its a straight shot with 2 90* fittings. Then just a few inches of hose back to the stock hardline.

[Stewi]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IceDouTGaLanT)</div><div class='quotemain'>i also been told i can do it this way???

There is no need for block of plates, hardlines, or that adapter. All you do is you buy like 6-10 feet of 1/4" line or 5/8" line (something like Goodyear) fuel line is fine. Connect the new line that runs from the stock fpr then run it to the new fpr, then cap one of the inlets then run new line for the return line to the stock hard line.</div>

2 fpr's is dumb. the reason your spending the money to buy an aeromotive one is because the stock one sucks, take the stock one and throw it out, or sell it.

maybe this pic helps. i got a 90 degree coming off the rail and a block off cap on the other side of the FPR. in this pic i still had the stock feed.

[DOHCstunr]

one of the major advantages of going to the -6 an aftermarket regulator is the increase in inner diameter over the stock regulator. the inlet and outlet of the stock regulator is about 1/4 inch. the inlet of the aeromotive is 3/8.
so fuel flows much better. not only that, but with the higher flow and less restriction, you have a lower chance of starving the #1 cylinder for fuel pressure(or whichever cylinder is the last in line on the passenger mounted engines).
you will realize lower egt's because of this, as well as a more consistant a/f between cylinders, which will result in a more accurate reading from the o2 sensors.
your stock regulator sucks. whomever gave you that idea...
don't take anymore advice from them, because they obviously don't understand the concepts here.

[DryBear]

This guy is selling a fuel rail with -6 fittings among other things that might be of interest to you:
http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53791

[IceDouTGaLanT]

thanks alottttt MAN....i pmed him..i think ima get everything besides the injectors,so now thiers no need for that outlet fitting correct since he has it fitted?...funny thing is this is the guy who told me to drill it on my rail which i posted in above

[DOHCstunr]

jeez thats a sweet price. a new fuel feed for my ride would cost $90 from slowboy. just for the feed

[Tearstone]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCSTUNR)</div><div class='quotemain'>one of the major advantages of going to the -6 an aftermarket regulator is the increase in inner diameter over the stock regulator. Â*the inlet and outlet of the stock regulator is about 1/4 inch. Â*the inlet of the aeromotive is 3/8. Â*
so fuel flows much better. Â*not only that, but with the higher flow and less restriction, you have a lower chance of starving the #1 cylinder for fuel pressure(or whichever cylinder is the last in line on the passenger mounted engines).
you will realize lower egt's because of this, as well as a more consistant a/f between cylinders, which will result in a more accurate reading from the o2 sensors.
your stock regulator sucks. whomever gave you that idea...
don't take anymore advice from them, because they obviously don't understand the concepts here.</div>

That is the most concise explanation I've ever read on any of these forums for the justification of an aftermarket FPR. That was excellent!

[DOHCstunr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Tearstone)</div><div class='quotemain'>
That is the most concise explanation I've ever read on any of these forums for the justification of an aftermarket FPR. That was excellent!</div>
< needs a job

[IceDouTGaLanT]

everything looks good just need an 01+ midpipe,B&M guage and im done..

what do you guys think about these? RPW stage 2 turbo cam (256/262, .39") with RPW springs. i was gettin a deal of 400+shipping..do you think it will benefit me as of right now? or should i wait tune the car then build the motor up? for now im not gona boost anymore then 8psi but in the feture i wanna go to atleast 9-10 but thats a while away..i belive tearstone sells these cams for 468+shipping...they been used 10K miles

and for the B&M underhood guage dat goes on the afpr...will this work even though it label honda.. from what it looks like they all look the same??
http://www.injectedperformance.com/ViewPro...uct.aspx?ID=332

[DOHCstunr]

everything looks good just need an 01+ midpipe,B&M guage and im done..

what do you guys think about these? RPW stage 2 turbo cam (256/262, .39") with RPW springs. i was gettin a deal of 400+shipping..do you think it will benefit me as of right now? or should i wait tune the car then build the motor up? for now im not gona boost anymore then 8psi but in the feture i wanna go to atleast 9-10 but thats a while away..i belive tearstone sells these cams for 468+shipping...they been used 10K miles

and for the B&M underhood guage dat goes on the afpr...will this work even though it label honda.. from what it looks like they all look the same??
http://www.injectedperformance.com/V...ct.aspx?ID=332

well i'll say this. undoubtedly it would help your sohc breath more. but here is the thing.
when you do a cluster of mods at once its nearly impossible to tell which mods help and which ones hurt you. you are already going to be makeing a flying leap in power. i would wait until you have a nice tune before you move on to the head. with the larger cam you will also lose some fuel effieciency as well as inch you closer and closer to failing emissions.
just some things to consider.
so my simple answer
yes it would most likely help, but i would hold off on it.
when you do upgrade the cam, it would be a perfect oppurtunity to upgrade your valvesprings and maybe yank the head and install a nice thick headgasket to lower your ccompression a half mark.

the key here is to set a realistic hp goal.
if you say right away i want to reach 280 whp and be daily driven. now there is a realistic and challenging goal.
now on the road to meeting that goal you can right away throw oout all the stops and hit it, but it could be expensive, and on the road there you might lose some of the smooth drivability or comfort that you are used to.
for instance.
you could turn up the boost
put on a big open exhaust,
throw in a lumpy cam,
delete the balance shafts
delete your cat
throw in some aftermarket pistons and rods
well you might get to your goal, and most likely you would.
but how much of that money you spent was nessecery.
and with the lumpy cams, the balance shaft delete, and the upgraded pistops, your idle is crappy, and the car becomes more of a harsh racecar than a pleasure to drive. warming it up in the morning is hell, it stalls at times fom the low vacuum at idle, your gas mileage out of boost is shit.
you just committed to a lot of sacrifices that weren'tnessecery.

what if just getting a water injection kit, a head gasket, a bigger turbo and a lot of tuning could take you to that hp goal? and you would still have your buttery idle, pass emissions, get great out of boost mileage.
and you didn't spend a lot of money either.

don't just take the plunge.
make well researched calculated moves to each level of performance.

and ALWAYS remember: just because a mod yeilds you more hp, it doesn't mean its worth it, or without sacrifice.

do your research.


but... that is a very good deal.
i'd snag the cams and springs now, and wait to put em on.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

thanks doch..i was only gona get em cuz thier cheep..but u make sence i wont kno what diffence they make untill i have the turbo installed and know what its makeing then i can see to upgrade the cams..ill wait tearstone sells them for 464 anyhow....

[DOHCstunr]

thanks doch..i was only gona get em cuz thier cheep..but u make sence i wont kno what diffence they make untill i have the turbo installed and know what its makeing then i can see to upgrade the cams..ill wait tearstone sells them for 464 anyhow....

snag the cams if you can afford the expense. thats a really good deal.
just don't throw em on first thing

[IceDouTGaLanT]

just got AFPR+Guage 175 shipped Jegs.com

All i need now is 01+midpipe and im DONE!!!! :twisted:

i think the shop can fab an midpipe,so im not to worried..im going to the junkyard monday...anybody need anything? i can check it out for u

[IceDouTGaLanT]

where can i find an afpr block of plate? like the one in the pic above..

[seth98esT]

Cant see the pic, if its for the Aeromotive AFPR you can get em at www.slowboyracing.com or www.diamondstarmotorsport.com or www.sumittracing.com

Sumitt always has butloads of AN fittings.

[DOHCstunr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IceDouTGaLanT)</div><div class='quotemain'>where can i find an afpr block of plate? like the one in the pic above..</div>
if you are talking about the fitting required to plug the extra/ unused port on your afpr.
then you can get those at any hydraulic supply store

[IceDouTGaLanT]

ahh great...ill pick up tommow..

only thing left to arvive now is the kit itself and the ss lines,new fuel rail...should be here anyday though