Popping sounds...

[98ACR]

Ok, whenever I rev up the engine, and occasionally when I shift from D<->N<->R I'll hear a popping sound reminiscant of a bad CV joint. I've checked the CV axles all four joints are still intact, all four engine/transaxle mounts are new, and even the front axle crossmember bushings have been replaced. Also possibly related to this problem....I'm having a pretty bad vibration at idle. especially in D with my foot on the brake. The RPM drop to about 600 and the whole car vibrates. It mostly goes away if I hold the brake and rev the engine manually to about 1k RPM or so. I've tried adjusting the BISS to compensate for this and raise the idle, but it dosen't seem to make a signifigant difference. When the weather warms up again, I'm going to try to swap out for one of my 60mm TBs and see if maybe my IAC is just acting up.

More info for perusal: The plugs are covered in a fine white ash, and there is soot on the back of the car. I'm getting right around 35mpg and I'm loosing about 1 qt of oil every 1k miles or so (I've isolated most if not all of that to the rear main seal leaking though)

Please help!

[evil-G-nius]

If it is when you put the car in drive, check the axles! I had a similar sound and when I had my axles checked they were both broken! They will not fall out or anything because of the boot they are in, so it may look like they are fine but...Both of mine were snapped in half but the car still drove

[seth98esT]

Check and see if a bolt backed loose from any of the mounts

[MBowen574]

holy crap! 35 mpg!? i'm getting 19-26 on 93 oct. and lucas oil injector cleaner! i hit 17 one time before...

[DOHCstunr]

holy crap! 35 mpg!? i'm getting 19-26 on 93 oct. and lucas oil injector cleaner! i hit 17 one time before...

you r4ally need to be running 87 octane in yoru car, you are wasting your money. your ecu does not make use of the detonation resistance of high octane fuels. you will get better mileage on 87 octane and the same performance.

as for you acr,
try backing up in a circle. cut the wheel all the way to the left, and go into reverse. if you hear clicking, then your axles are bad. although it doesn't sound like its the issue.
i think seth is on to something w/ the loose bolts on your mounts. but idk

as for your idle,
you need to hook it up to a mitsubishi scan tool to freeze the ecu's control of the idle air controller in order to adjust your idle. by merly adjusing the biss, your ecu compensates in order to hit the target idle speed.
a number of factors need to be satisfied to get the proper idle.

[98ACR]

I've already checked the bolts in the mounts, they're as tight as I feel comfortable getting them ( I don't have a torque wrench, but I know from experience that "tight" for me is about 120 lb/ft)

Also, the clicking/popping stops when the vehicle starts moving, not the constant clicking associated with bad cv joints.

I guess later this week I'm gonna lift it up and start going over everything that could be associated with removal of the transmission, since when I had it re-built is right around the time I started to notice this noise.

[MBowen574]

you r4ally need to be running 87 octane in yoru car, you are wasting your money. your ecu does not make use of the detonation resistance of high octane fuels. you will get better mileage on 87 octane and the same performance.

sorry bud, i know you are way more knowledgeable than me on general galant issues, but my average over 4 weeks (4 fill-ups, around 1200 miles) on 87 octane was 20.7 mpg and my average over the same amount of time, fill-ups, and miles for 93 octane was 23.8...

i hit a high of 24.5 mpg on 87 and a high of 26.9 on 93 w/ injector cleaner, while i hit a low of 17.7 on 87 and a low of 21.3 on 93... ive been keeping meticulous track of this stuff and the numbers arent lying to me.

maybe ill do midgrade on a long-term basis, the 93 is just while im cleaning the injectors :?

[MBowen574]

the variable factors were (a) injector cleaner w/ 93 octane and ( new rotors and pads halfway through the 93 octane period, which could theoretically skew (but not by 2-3 mpg) the results...

[DOHCstunr]

the variable factors were (a) injector cleaner w/ 93 octane and ( new rotors and pads halfway through the 93 octane period, which could theoretically skew (but not by 2-3 mpg) the results...

OK BUD. higher octane fuels are a complete and total waste of money on your car. PERIOD. and there is no extra benefit to running 93 and fuel injector cleaner than there would be just running 87 and fuel injector cleaner. but its totally your car. why not put some slick 50 in your crankcase and rant about how it made your seatbelts work better.

what good is it to get more per gallon, if you could get more gallons per dollar and exceed the claimed mileage of your 93 octane.
:arrow: if at $2 /gallon it would cost your 34 to fill up your tank from empty.
then for 93 it would cost 2.20/ gallon and 37.40 to fill up your tank (taxes not included)
and thats a difference of $3.40
therefor that means you could get another 1.7 gallons of 87 octane, for what you are paying for 93 (not to mention the 3-4 dollars you spent on cleaner)

i'll factor these out w/ your claimed "peak" averages

(premium)17 * 26.9 =457 miles for $37.40(not including the $3 to $4 for cleaner)

(87 octane)18.7*24.5 =458.15 for 37.40

why waste your money? you are literally gaining nothing.



oh yeah, and we beat you in the ncaa elite 8. it was a sweet game.

[DOHCstunr]

Ok, whenever I rev up the engine, and occasionally when I shift from D<->N<->R I'll hear a popping sound reminiscant of a bad CV joint. I've checked the CV axles all four joints are still intact, all four engine/transaxle mounts are new, and even the front axle crossmember bushings have been replaced. Also possibly related to this problem....I'm having a pretty bad vibration at idle. especially in D with my foot on the brake. The RPM drop to about 600 and the whole car vibrates. It mostly goes away if I hold the brake and rev the engine manually to about 1k RPM or so. I've tried adjusting the BISS to compensate for this and raise the idle, but it dosen't seem to make a signifigant difference. When the weather warms up again, I'm going to try to swap out for one of my 60mm TBs and see if maybe my IAC is just acting up.

More info for perusal: The plugs are covered in a fine white ash, and there is soot on the back of the car. I'm getting right around 35mpg and I'm loosing about 1 qt of oil every 1k miles or so (I've isolated most if not all of that to the rear main seal leaking though)

Please help!

as for the low idle, have you tried cleaning out your throttle body?
take your ride up to the dealer and have a mechanic set your idle real quick with the mut-2. give him 5 or ten bucks cash.

does this sound only happnee when you put it in gear? does it hapopen if you floor it off the line, or slam on the brakes? more specificallty, does it happen when you shift the weight of the car around?

[MBowen574]

the variable factors were (a) injector cleaner w/ 93 octane and ( new rotors and pads halfway through the 93 octane period, which could theoretically skew (but not by 2-3 mpg) the results...

OK BUD. higher octane fuels are a complete and total waste of money on your car. PERIOD. and there is no extra benefit to running 93 and fuel injector cleaner than there would be just running 87 and fuel injector cleaner. but its totally your car. why not put some slick 50 in your crankcase and rant about how it made your seatbelts work better.

what good is it to get more per gallon, if you could get more gallons per dollar and exceed the claimed mileage of your 93 octane.
:arrow: if at $2 /gallon it would cost your 34 to fill up your tank from empty.
then for 93 it would cost 2.20/ gallon and 37.40 to fill up your tank (taxes not included)
and thats a difference of $3.40
therefor that means you could get another 1.7 gallons of 87 octane, for what you are paying for 93 (not to mention the 3-4 dollars you spent on cleaner)

i'll factor these out w/ your claimed "peak" averages

(premium)17 * 26.9 =457 miles for $37.40(not including the $3 to $4 for cleaner)

(87 octane)18.7*24.5 =458.15 for 37.40

why waste your money? you are literally gaining nothing.



oh yeah, and we beat you in the ncaa elite 8. it was a sweet game.

Geezus... you need to quit making so much damn sense. youre ruining my rep :x

last season was freakin insane for us... we havent been that good in decades. this year is looking okay (6-3 so far) but not great. we'll see how it turns out...

and hey... we made up for that in football in October... another great game however.

we'll see you guys in Feb :twisted:

[98ACR]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCSTUNR)</div><div class='quotemain'>
as for the low idle, have you tried cleaning out your throttle body?
take your ride up to the dealer and have a mechanic set your idle real quick with the mut-2. Â*give him 5 or ten bucks cash.

does this sound only happnee when you put it in gear? Â*does it hapopen if you floor it off the line, or slam on the brakes? Â*more specificallty, does it happen when you shift the weight of the car around?</div>

Yes, I've cleaned the TB twice since having this problem, no avail. The low idle is sporradic. It seems to happen more when the car is COLD (not just ambient temperature, but when the car has sat for a while)

As for the noise, it's right when I shift into drive or reverse, and sometimes when I take off from a stop. I can also get it do to it by brake-torquing the engine.

Oh, and on the fuel grade discussion, MY car will ping and throw a CEL if I run regular fuel. It'll flicker if I run mid-grade (usually only on hard acceleration) and is only truely happy on Premium. I can only assume that it's due to the extra air flow of my P&P'd head since I had to make this adjustment after I had the head done. Oh and I just found out that the machinest milled the head .03 when he did the P&P so, my CR is raised by that. Just fuel for thought.