Dimming Lights

[Mitsubishi_Lover]

I got a new battery (Optima Red Top), and that was kinda helpfull, but im still having an issue Im thinkin i should rule out the alternator, cuz it seems to be doing its job when its at the correct rpm, im gonna have to figue out why the idleing is so low im thinking i need a new o2 sensor, and I will also clean the IAC.

[getafix]

... im gonna have to figue out why the idleing is so low im thinking i need a new o2 sensor, and I will also clean the IAC.

when that happens here the usual suspect is the IAC ... how does one go about cleaning the IAC?

[bronxbombr]

Hell i'll sell you the TB with IAC intact. Holla.

[Rogo]

Its your alternator. bought a brand new one because I was having problems. When I tested it on the car, with the headlighs, heater fan, four-ways, and dome light, t was putting out 12.9v when the four-ways were off, and 12.1v when on. When noting is on, I read 13.5v. I want to do some more testing, but I believe the stock 90amp alternator isn't adequate. If it is not in top shape, (which is what happened to mine), it's just too much strain on the charging system.

[Mitsubishi_Lover]

Yeah ive been thinking its the alternator, but i wont be replacing it for a while cuz of 2 things. One I got a 8th gen that im driving for now till my baby is born, and Two my 7th gen was just backed into 2 nights ago by the idiot that lives accross the streets friend (meh mormons what can ya do...) and f**ked up the whole drivers side door so I have no more window, and I really need that fixed for all the accessories in my car.

[MBowen574]

hope you get it fixed soon... its definitely the alternator. my car had the same problems when i bought it. the alt tested perfect on the car. replaced it, and boom, everything worked perfectly. thats the problem, i guarantee it.

the guys insurance is paying for your new door right?

[bronxbombr]

hope you get it fixed soon... its definitely the alternator. my car had the same problems when i bought it. the alt tested perfect on the car. replaced it, and boom, everything worked perfectly. thats the problem, i guarantee it.

the guys insurance is paying for your new door right?

I have a brand new one here collecting dust.

[Mitsubishi_Lover]

Alright well my car is collecting dust as you can see my pic I got a 8th gen... my car still has no window, as i was saving money for the babys birth. Now he is here tho so guess what, its time to start workin on the car again (fiesta!!!) I will replace the alternator yet again, and im gonna be replacing the engine soon with the engine noted on www.extremeevolutions.com . I really wanna go 6-bolt, but its hard to fine a 4G64B engine so.. crankwalk meter will come in handy lol. So bronxbombr if you still have some parts (mostly alternator) can you please PM me with prices? Oh and by the way no i wouldnt let them pay with insurance I went and got quotes all were more than $1000 so i told them to pay me in payments of $400, then 2 more of $250 each so i could just fix it my self and have a bunch of money left over for mods. :twisted:

[4-G-rim]

I just recently replaced my alternator on the 96. My symptoms were similar to yours dimming/flashing lights and the car would randomly have power loss when either the fan kicked on or some other electrical device pulling current. Here is 1 thing you need to watch out for with the 7g alternators:

94-95 have a 2 pin connector while the 96-98's have a 4 pin connector.

I realized this when I went to try to install the alternator from my old 95 Galant and the 95 alternator had a 2 pin connector. Here is other additional info that could help while I was in search for a alternator for my 96-98 4 pin connector.


[b][LIST]
Galant: 2.4L SOHC 96-98 (4 connector plug)
Eclipse/Talon: 2.4L SOHC/2.0L Turbo 95-98 (4 connector plug)[LIST]

So 95-98 2g Eclipses/Talons Turbo (4G63 equipped) alternators will work on 96-98 Galants.

[crzejkr]

ive replaced about 5 alternators new rebuilt and junk yard ones. the best ones that have worked for me have been factory mitsubishi with low miles which is currently on my car.
the fix for this common and never ending problem is more of a remedy than a fix.
1. yes the iacs is a big play. low idles and youll get low voltage. so all day ac and wipers in rain in low rpm traffic your going to suffer especially when the car was auto. the bad news whne u adjust the idle screw the car takes like 3-4 days of idle learning so you must adjust like every 100 miles . youll notice it wont be idling where you set it at after some warming up and driving. dont unplug the battery because the ecu will clear and all saved data will have to be painfully relearned. i gave up disconected it and after a week of surging idle and low rpm one day high the other it agreed with itself and now stays at 1 grand.

2. these alternators regulators are triggered in part internally by our ECU. it will sometimes wait not for voltage to drop from battery drain but for an accesory like lights or ac for the ecu to tell the altternator to boost up to 14.5 volts.

3. run a 4 gauge battery wire (not amp stereo 4 gauge wire) to the fuse box bypassing the white alternator wire. from there straight to the alternator. and the one that leads out to the battery also. dont confuse it with the black red striped starter wire.

4. get a red top and heavy duty terminals. or some expensive brass or goldish ones.

or 5. all of the above plus 0 gauge ground from chasis to block closes to starter, a 0 gauge bmw battery wire with battery post block from a yard and put battery in trunk with another 0 gauge grond to one of the 14mm seat bolts close to the fuel pump. and my problems are fixed. fully loaded i never see below 11 volts at like 500 rpms. driving with everyhting but ac and wipers i never see below 14 volts at any idle. the alternator fights to not charge lol instead of charge. and forget a cap for those of you with systems. get a second drycell battery wire the amp to that and put them parallell but the ground to chassis for recharge instead of to 1st battery. way better damper than a cap.

good luck.

o i forgot. last last last option would be ecu is bad. sorta rare but happens.
especial 95 year. and even 96 but it must be a 96 with a late 95 door manfg date. ive replaced a few in 7g,s solving this and exssesive rich running issues.

[crzejkr]

ps. i know the forums old but i stumbled across the post. and i like to post some fixs to old posts that where never solved for those lost and coming across here trough google etc.
for those of you flaming me for reviving old ass posts.
hope it helps.

[JapsGalant]

i had the same problem with my v4 gallant i had my alternaotr rebuilt and i got a new air conditioning belt that was my main problem the belt so check yours out that might be the problem. it stop the dimming of my lights and everything hope this helps your out

[skrap]

Please don't bring back dead threads... Look at what the date is of the last post.. This thread is over a year old. I'm just giving you a heads up becasue it pisses a lot of people off...