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  1. #1
    Experienced TGC Member Kalamidad's Avatar
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    Calipers went bad.

    What could cause this?



    I was driving yesterday, about 55/60 mph average. Stopped at a light and noticed smoke coming from the front of the car. I pulled into a parking lot and noticed my Passanger side Caliper was smoking. The paint, which was high temp red Break paint was black and falling off. It was completely burnt to a crisp. I turn the car around to go home and my car took like 150ft to stop from 20mph. I pulled it into a parking lot and let the tow truck take it. My driver side caliper had turned black about two or three weeks ago.

    My calipers have been painted for years, so i doubt it was the paint.


    I usually do my own breaks, but the last time they where replace, the shop told me that the calipers where locking up. What causes this?

    The shop where the car is now said i need new calipers (duh) new rotors (mine where burn and had black spots on them) and new breakpads (which makes sense) They also told me i need a new spring set for the rear drums. Any opinions on this?
    -Pedro

  2. #2
    u say you did your own work and a shop did ur last brake job, did you ever grease them?
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  3. #3
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    Damn that soundss scary. Maybe warped rotors? My rotor are warped. When braking my steering wheel shakes really bad. I'm just waiting for better weather so I can install my new pads and rotors.


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  4. #4
    Experienced TGC Member Kalamidad's Avatar
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(playa759)</div><div class='quotemain'>u say you did your own work and a shop did ur last brake job, did you ever grease them?</div>

    Grease the pads? i will admit not every time. I don't see how this would cause the calipers to lock up.
    -Pedro

  5. #5
    Sounds like the caliper pistons hung in the bores. Brake fluid needs to be flushed at a minimum of every two years. Brake fluid is hydroscopic meaning it attracts water. If the fluid is old you get corrosion in the caliper bore. When they push that piston back into the bore to install the new pads that corrosion gets stuck between the piston and the bore. The caliper heats up and the clearance gets smaller not allowing the piston to release. Sounds like you may need rebuilt calipers. Might as well powdercoat them as well. It took more pressure to stop the vehicle because the pads where so hot from dragging on the rotors. Unfortunately I just sold off my dual piston front calipers....but search Club3g.com there's a guy selling fronts for 300 a pair...powdercoated. I think hell give you a deal if you send in your old ones.

    Dave
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  6. #6
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(http://www.forparts.com/ICdiscbrakecalipers6.05.htm)</div><div class='quotemain'><span style='font-size:25pt;line-height:100%'>CALIPER PATTERN FAILURES</span>
    Theoretically, disc brake calipers should enjoy a very long, trouble-free service life. In the real world, however, brake calipers live in a very hostile environment that includes heat damage from extended braking, mechanical damage caused by road debris and, of course, corrosion damage caused by wintertime humidity and road salt.

    The caliper piston boot is the brake caliper part that fails most often. Although the caliper piston is sturdy enough, a torn rubber boot often exposes the piston to dirt and corrosion. As the boot fails, dirt migrates under the piston seal which, in turn, creates a wear groove on the piston surface. Continued exposure allows moisture to contaminate the brake fluid and further corrode the piston and caliper bore. Rust corrosion eventually causes the caliper piston to stick in an applied position against the brake pad, which results in excessive and uneven brake pad wear.

    Road salt also causes the floating caliper to seize on its guide pins and cause uneven wear rates between the inner and outer pads. Road salt may also cause the caliper bleeder screw to seize in the caliper housing, which prevents the technician from bleeding the caliper during a normal service procedure. When the bleeder screw is broken off in the caliper housing, the caliper assembly usually must be replaced. </div>

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  7. #7
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pinoyesv6)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(http://www.forparts.com/ICdiscbrakecalipers6.05.htm)</div><div class='quotemain'><span style='font-size:25pt;line-height:100%'>CALIPER PATTERN FAILURES</span>
    Theoretically, disc brake calipers should enjoy a very long, trouble-free service life. In the real world, however, brake calipers live in a very hostile environment that includes heat damage from extended braking, mechanical damage caused by road debris and, of course, corrosion damage caused by wintertime humidity and road salt.

    The caliper piston boot is the brake caliper part that fails most often. Although the caliper piston is sturdy enough, a torn rubber boot often exposes the piston to dirt and corrosion. As the boot fails, dirt migrates under the piston seal which, in turn, creates a wear groove on the piston surface. Continued exposure allows moisture to contaminate the brake fluid and further corrode the piston and caliper bore. Rust corrosion eventually causes the caliper piston to stick in an applied position against the brake pad, which results in excessive and uneven brake pad wear.

    Road salt also causes the floating caliper to seize on its guide pins and cause uneven wear rates between the inner and outer pads. Road salt may also cause the caliper bleeder screw to seize in the caliper housing, which prevents the technician from bleeding the caliper during a normal service procedure. When the bleeder screw is broken off in the caliper housing, the caliper assembly usually must be replaced. </div></div>
    Good timing
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  8. #8
    You are here entirely tooo much!! 9G's Avatar
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    could be the master cylinder too.

  9. #9
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(9G)</div><div class='quotemain'>could be the master cylinder too.</div>

    I doubt it...but I'd have it checked as well. Of course these guys may just try to stick you with more expenses....so if you can, check it yourself. It may be too full.
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  10. #10
    Experienced TGC Member Kalamidad's Avatar
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    Great, thanks guys.
    Allan, that excerpt help a lot.

    Well, unfortunately, i don't have the time to wait so i'm having the shop do everything with new stock parts.

    I will check the master cylinder when i get the car back.

    Total price was
    425 for parts + tax
    245 for labor + tax
    plus the tow truck came out to $961

    A little much no?

    when i get the car back i'm gonna request an itemized receipt.
    -Pedro

  11. #11
    You are here entirely tooo much!!
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    if its the calipers you can save money by going to the dealer and getting the caliper rebuild kit.

    You will need a nice sized pair of vice grips, and grease.

    Not how fast your car goes but how good u drive going fast.
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  12. #12
    Experienced TGC Member Kalamidad's Avatar
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Kalamidad)</div><div class='quotemain'>Great, thanks guys.
    Allan, that excerpt help a lot. Â*

    Well, unfortunately, i don't have the time to wait so i'm having the shop do everything with new stock parts. Â*

    I will check the master cylinder when i get the car back.

    Total price was Â*
    425 for parts + tax
    245 for labor + tax
    plus the tow truck came out to $961

    A little much no?

    when i get the car back i'm gonna request an itemized receipt.</div>

    Let's do some math..

    425 [part] + (425x.0725)[tax] = 425 + 30.81 = 455.81
    245 [labor] + (245x.0725)[tax] = 245 + 17.76 = 262.76
    100 [for a 4 mile tow] (generous estimate) = 100.00

    so my grand total should be $818.57 I'm wondering where they came up with $961 from.
    -Pedro

  13. #13
    You are here entirely tooo much!!
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Kalamidad)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Kalamidad)</div><div class='quotemain'>Great, thanks guys.
    Allan, that excerpt help a lot. Â*

    Well, unfortunately, i don't have the time to wait so i'm having the shop do everything with new stock parts. Â*

    I will check the master cylinder when i get the car back.

    Total price was Â*
    425 for parts + tax
    245 for labor + tax
    plus the tow truck came out to $961

    A little much no?

    when i get the car back i'm gonna request an itemized receipt.</div>

    Let's do some math..

    425 [part] + (425x.0725)[tax] = 425 + 30.81 = 455.81
    245 [labor] + (245x.0725)[tax] = 245 + 17.76 = 262.76
    100 [for a 4 mile tow] (generous estimate) = 100.00

    so my grand total should be $818.57 I'm wondering where they came up with $961 from.</div>

    They had to add the extra charge in there somehow and i bet they say its tax, unless you paying them with CC then they will have no choice but to charge you the tax. Oh and mechanics dont pay tax on the parts when they buy them unless they paying with a CC.

    Been in the autoparts business to know all the loopholes.
    Also 425 in parts is mad expensive especially if you dont know exactly what parts they putting on the car. Believe me when i tell you i have seen guys come to pick up the cheapest rotors they can find $8.00 but charge the customer 30 -50 per rotor. Brake pads same shit. And the master cylinder most stores get like 40-50 off so they go for 20-70 the most that i have ever sold to a store. I even once sold a store Plug Wires that cost the guy 10 bux, he calls his employees and tell the guy not to bill it as some other part cuz he taking out of the box and giving them to him.

    HOW THE FUCK YOU GONNA GIVE A MAN (STANDARD WIRES) AND SELL THEM TO HIM FOR MOTORCRAFT>SHIT SAYS STANDARD ALL OVER THE WIRES. Fucker sold them to the guy for 62 bux when he only paid 10bux for it. Talk about mark up price eh.

    Not how fast your car goes but how good u drive going fast.
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  14. #14
    Experienced TGC Member Kalamidad's Avatar
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    Thanks Albert, that's why I said,

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Kalamidad)</div><div class='quotemain'>
    when i get the car back i'm gonna request an itemized receipt.</div>
    -Pedro

  15. #15
    You are here entirely tooo much!!
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Kalamidad)</div><div class='quotemain'>Thanks Albert, that's why I said, Â*

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Kalamidad)</div><div class='quotemain'>
    when i get the car back i'm gonna request an itemized receipt.</div></div>

    Ya get that reciept from them for all the parts they purchased cuz something in the cream aint milk.

    Not how fast your car goes but how good u drive going fast.
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  16. #16
    Experienced TGC Member Kalamidad's Avatar
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    well, i couldn't go pick her up..i'll get her first thing in the morning.
    -Pedro

  17. #17
    You are here entirely tooo much!! SkylineG1's Avatar
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    NAPA 8G front calipers $87 w/core (w/out my discount)
    NAPA Performance Ceramix Pads $30 (if I use my discount) $45 if I don't

    I think that your getting ripped a new one.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kalamidad
    Quote Originally Posted by Kalamidad
    Great, thanks guys.
    Allan, that excerpt help a lot.

    Well, unfortunately, i don't have the time to wait so i'm having the shop do everything with new stock parts.

    I will check the master cylinder when i get the car back.

    Total price was
    425 for parts + tax
    245 for labor + tax
    plus the tow truck came out to $961

    A little much no?

    when i get the car back i'm gonna request an itemized receipt.
    Let's do some math..

    425 [part] + (425x.0725)[tax] = 425 + 30.81 = 455.81
    245 [labor] + (245x.0725)[tax] = 245 + 17.76 = 262.76
    100 [for a 4 mile tow] (generous estimate) = 100.00

    so my grand total should be $818.57 I'm wondering where they came up with $961 from.
    U guys have to pay tax for parts and labor? How lucky I am to live in my country because we don't actually have tax. Either it is to purchase the parts/labor charge or income tax.

  19. #19
    You are here entirely tooo much!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkylineG1
    NAPA 8G front calipers $87 w/core (w/out my discount)
    NAPA Performance Ceramix Pads $30 (if I use my discount) $45 if I don't

    I think that your getting ripped a new one.
    werd I sell parts to all of the NAPA STORES, especially .EASTCHESTER,YONKERS,WHITEPLAINS. ETC..... lOTS OF NAPA STORES BUY FROM ME DAILY.

    Not how fast your car goes but how good u drive going fast.
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  20. #20
    Experienced TGC Member Kalamidad's Avatar
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    They Ripped me a large one...I picked up the car at 8 and had to pick up my mom at the airport at 9 so had to run.

    Here's the price list he gave me.

    labor 6 hours - $297 (297/6=49.50 per hour)
    Both Calipers - $300 (150 each)
    Both Rotors - $196 (98 each)
    Rear Spring Sets $50 (25 each)
    Pads - 76 (front only)

    Tax rate - 8.25%

    297+300+196+50+76=919

    919x.0825=75.82 <tax

    919+75.82=994.82 <total but doesn't include the tow.. Hmmm.

    But this is what his receipt reads..

    Towing Service = $75
    Front Brake Package with Calipers, pads, rotors replaced $697.50
    Rear Break Drum hardware kit with clean and adjust $117.55

    Services 890
    Parts 0
    Subtoral 890
    MMC 71.20

    Total $961.25


    I didn't get the name of the supplier...
    He told me that he does not itemize reciepts but just charges a total fee...something about being easier when dealing with taxes for him.
    I figure i have two options.

    Go to the shop and ask for the receipts of the purchase of my parts.
    Leave it as is.



    I am soo angry right now. :x
    -Pedro

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