The Galant Center - Powered by vBulletin

Thread: Addco Rear Sway Bar Woes

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Showing results 1 to 20 of 28
  1. #1

    Addco Rear Sway Bar Woes

    My rear sway bar arrived a couple of weeks ago, and I installed it the next weekend. Taking the old one off was a snap, but putting the new one on was a bitch.

    First, the bars have a different bend which places the Addco bar higher than stock, forcing it against the exhuast. I do have an aftermarket exhaust, so I can't complain too much about that. The bar presses so tightly against the exhaust, that it doesn't even rattle. Only I can pick up on the slightly different sound, because I'm used to hearing it on a daily basis. I actually had to get under the bar and bench press it while my roommate threaded the screws.

    Second, the holes on the brackets were not large enough for the screws to fit through, and the stock brackets don't fit the new bushings. 5 minutes with a metal file took care of that.

    I drove around with the bar like that for a week. It squeaked a lot, but I didn't hear any other funny sounds. I decided to take the bar off and grease the bushings. When I pulled it off again, I found that they eyelets on the bar (which are much larger than stock), were rubbing into the lower arm. When I put the bar on, there was no contact between the bar and the lower arm, but it settled there and started to carve a notch in the lower arm.

    I took the bar off and ground the shit out of the extra material around the eyelets. I put the bar back on, and everything sounded great. About a week later, I started to hear an occassional knock sound on hard turns... kind of like the bar was forceably connecting with the lower arm instead of rubbing against it.

    I'm going to take the bar off once again, grind it some more, and put it back on. This time I'm going to put tape on the lower arm where the notch is, to see if the bar chews threw it. I also think I'm going to replace the stabilizer end links, because the dust covers have cracks in them. They still rotate smoothly, but I guess it can't hurt.

    The Addco web page says that the bar is for the '99-'02, and I have an '03. I wouldn't think that they'd make a change to the suspension setup on the final year of a generation... but maybe they did? Is there something else that can explain my problems?

    The bar is centered, and everything is torqued to spec.

  2. #2
    I don't know what else to tell you. I know you've already read my response in THIS thread.

    My bushings are polyurethane. I don't know if yours are rubber, but if they are, let me know because I think I have a set of polyurethane bushings still from when Addco first sent me the bar that I test fitted.

    I also had the problem with the bolts not fitting through the brackets, but a dremel took care of that in seconds.

    As for the bar hitting the control arm, does it do it on both sides? I have not had any problems like that and I highly doubt that Mitsu changed the suspension in any way on the '03 models.

    When did you get the bar? I'm wondering if you didn't somehow get one that was like the one I test fitted? Because the one I test fitted was a little longer at the ends and was too long for the end links to attach. But, if you got that bar and somehow made the end links attach, I could see you having problems.

  3. #3
    I think my bushings are rubber. I'm not a materials expert, but I have installed two different sets of polyurethane motor mounts in two different vehicles, and those materials were nothing like what my sway bar came with. It just started squeaking again, so I think the grease is proving ineffective. I'm interested in those poly mounts if you've got no other use for them--just name a price that you think is fair.

    The bar does hit the lower arm on boths sides... pretty much in the exact same spot.

    I ordered the bar on 3/14/06, and got it about a week later. I definitely got the end links attached. I also had plenty of room for the end link nut, where as the old version you would have to thread lock it, because it only caught a couple of threads.

    I'm at a loss. Thanks for your help.

  4. #4
    TGC Regular
    Join Date
    09-30-2002
    Location
    San Gabriel, CA
    Posts
    573
    can u get pics? i would like to see what the problem looks like.
    Your signature is too long.

  5. #5
    Yeah... I should be able to post some tomorrow.

  6. #6
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(shiznit013)</div><div class='quotemain'>Yeah... I should be able to post some tomorrow.</div>
    And if you could take a close pic of one of the bushings too? I'm curious to see what they look like and whether they are rubber or not. If they do look like rubber for sure, you can have my extra polyurethane ones for free. Just pay for shipping, which shouldn't be much at all.

  7. #7


    You can see where I shaved off part of the eyelet, and the gray mark on the lower arm.







    Here is the mufler against the bar.



    And here is a shot of the bushing. That jizzy looking substance is dielectric grease. I used it for lack of finding anything better.

  8. #8
    Senior Moderator DOHCstunr's Avatar
    Join Date
    12-17-2004
    Location
    Louisville, KY
    Posts
    4,328
    you can get energy suspension and prothane grease at autozone and advance autoparts. it works best its thick, and water won't displace it
    ______________________________

    1994 Galant GS-Turbo

  9. #9
    That's crazy! I'm guessing the bar is just bent a little differently than the rest of them. I noticed that your ends are thinner now, so they fixed that problem, but that is also making the ends wider. Even still, the bar shouldn't be that close to the control arms.

    As far as I can tell, the bushings you have are exactly like the ones I have and they are polyurethane. With that much grease on there, they shouldn't be making any noise. Maybe it's not the bushings making noise? Is the bar perhaps rubbing against the spare tire well and making noise?

    Here is a pic of my bar... as you can see, it sits a good distance away from the control arms.


  10. #10
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>you can get energy suspension and prothane grease at autozone and advance autoparts. Â*it works best its thick, and water won't displace it</div>

    Actually, I was at Advance, and I wandered around that place for 45 minutes. I swear I picked up every bottle of grease in that place and still couldn't find it, so I got two different employees to help me look... the dielectric grease is the best we came up with.

    The reason I think it could be the grease is that the noise went away immediately after I applied it. The real test is going over speed bumps, because it always squeaks. After application, it didn't squeak for a week... and now It squeaks every time I hit a speed bump again.

    Anyway, I guess the conclusion is to grind on it some more, and try to find better grease. If all else fails, there is always the stock bar.

  11. #11
    Grease is usually in little packets on the counter, also general wheel bearing grease will work as well.

    As far as this issue, has anyone actually taken the time to contact the mfg about this issue? Show them this thread, I bet they'll be suprised or shed some light onto the situation.
    2004 Mitsubishi Galant LS - 3.8L V6 - "The G" - 14.62 @ 95.52

    ”Sticks impress high-school kids, autos win races” – Unknown

  12. #12
    I went to Pep Boys, Advance, and Salvo, and couldn't find any polyurethane grease. Of course every employee there had a suggestion, but none of them worked. I finally ordered some from energy suspension. I'll probably be using it next week when I put my new stabilizer links in.

    I haven't contacted the manufacturer, because I just don't think it is worth it; or that they'll listen. The product I received looked different than what other people have received. If you check the photos from DANJ, his eyelets are much wider, but not as tall... in both version he went through.

    I can cut/grind the metal away... I have no problem with that... I just wish they'd do a little more work before they call it an OEM replacement bar.

  13. #13
    Experienced TGC Member n3oAcid24's Avatar
    Join Date
    04-13-2005
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    1,945
    hey man i installed my bar last weekend and the only trouble i ran into was the links. damn things....... i had to buy new onces and the nuts. i mess them all up. oh well. but back to my point..... the only trouble i ran into with the actual bar was that the metal bracket holes for the bolts we a little too small. all i did was use a little grease and it went throught with no problem.
    n3oAcid24 = 01' Galant I4

  14. #14
    That's what I'm saying, they'll listen when they find out 99% of the Galant Community is on this forum complaining!
    2004 Mitsubishi Galant LS - 3.8L V6 - "The G" - 14.62 @ 95.52

    ”Sticks impress high-school kids, autos win races” – Unknown

  15. #15
    How much did you guys pay for the sway bar? I'm thinking my next mods will be this and a strut bar.

    Edit: nevermind. just realized there was another thread about the price.

    It seems everybody has had different problems with the installation from Addco. Do the other sway bars made by the other two copanies suck? Or is Addco just really good and worth risking having to butchering shit up to fit?

  16. #16
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Lootrock)</div><div class='quotemain'>It seems everybody has had different problems with the installation from Addco. Do the other sway bars made by the other two copanies suck? Or is Addco just really good and worth risking having to butchering shit up to fit?</div>

    From what I read the Addco should work just fine, unless you have a unique problem. One thing I expect is the common issue with the endlinks. The Addco is made for the Galant so it's a better fitment.
    It looks like the price is $165 everywhere. One thing, I would not go with JEGS again, as I'm still waiting on mine and last time they couldn't even tell me sht about when can I just expect it. I'd ask Justin at importcarpartsplus how fast can he get it.

  17. #17
    Experienced TGC Member n3oAcid24's Avatar
    Join Date
    04-13-2005
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    1,945
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Lootrock)</div><div class='quotemain'>How much did you guys pay for the sway bar? I'm thinking my next mods will be this and a strut bar.

    Edit: nevermind. just realized there was another thread about the price.

    It seems everybody has had different problems with the installation from Addco. Do the other sway bars made by the other two copanies suck? Or is Addco just really good and worth risking having to butchering shit up to fit?</div>

    well i got mine like 2 month ago and installed it that same weekend i got it. the only problem i had on the install was that i did it myself and it was a bitch. if you can get help, do so. as for the bar itself fitting, it fit great. no problems with anything man...........well the end links but thats mitsu's problem....
    n3oAcid24 = 01' Galant I4

  18. #18
    Experienced TGC Member 02redgalant's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-07-2007
    Location
    ORLANDO
    Posts
    1,599
    I just got the addco bar last week and I'm having the same issues as shiznit, and I have an 02..I called addco about it and also emailed them pictures of how mine sits,I'm hoping I can get this issue resolved....i'm about to shave the bar now because essentially its not functioning cause its stuck on the lower arms ...placing the washers in between the bolt and bracket somewhat resolves the issue of the exhaust hitting the bar as much but I still get an occasional clunk when i start the car...: (



    left side



    right side


    exhaust
    Last edited by 02redgalant; 06-21-2008 at 07:02 PM Reason: mi horable gramer

  19. #19
    Did you buy it specific for the Galant, or pick up an Eclipse ADDCO bar?

  20. #20
    Moderator mko's Avatar
    Join Date
    09-20-2007
    Location
    Sea Isle city, NJ
    Posts
    4,098
    What I see is that your sway ends are way too in, I mean they go over the control arm and a little over.

    I'd say that youll need to modify it in order to get a good clearance. A 1/2 inch plank with holes in it between the rear cross member and the bushings will set the sway bar off to the back which will bring the ends to normal......or find longer end links

    Last edited by mko; 06-21-2008 at 09:46 PM
    God created turbo lag to give the v8's a brief moment of hope.



    Build Thread

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Rules

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •