Project Supercharged Grocery Getter

[Jet Black]

Well, I just found out that Tearstone won't be able to ship my wideband until the 20th... so, regretably, I am having them refund me and I'm trying a larger chain-type store. Hopefully they will have one that can ship within a few days. If not, this project is going to be on hold for a while unless somebody wants to sell me an AEM UEGO controller/gauge.

I'm still mainly waiting on my headers from RPW which should be arriving in a week or so.

Why not go with Zeitronix? It has a cooler display and does EGT and boost as well

Unfortunately, the Zeitronix does not work with the eManage Ultimate.

Ya I was going to say, I believe it may require a linear analog output...

[DOHCstunr]

your walbro 255lph is overrunning your stock regulator.
its going to rear its head more at lower rpms.

the fuel pump will overrun the fuel regulator(meanign it flows more than the regulator can bypass) so you will have a crappy idle, and an inconsistant bottom end fuel curve.

its going to be more obvious on cold starts because your plugs are cold and foul easier, not to metntion everything esle is cold including your o2 sensor. plus the cu already runs things rich on a cold start to heat up the catalytic converters and speed up the proccess of warming up the engine and its components.

get a realy fuel pressure regulator.
the b&m ones that cap onto your stock regulator will not fix your problem.

either that or drop down to a walbro 190lph.

[WarmAndSCSI]

I don't believe that is a problem with the 6G72. Tearstone sells their turbo kit with a 255 and 440cc injectors, so it should work fine.

The rough cold starts began after I installed the spark plugs and before the fuel pump. The fuel pump changed nothing.

edit: I do have another question for you guys. I've been looking for some tips on installing these 440cc injectors from Tearstone. Anybody have any suggestions (I know HOW to do this, but I'm just wondering if I need to know any specifics)?

[DryBear]

I don't believe that is a problem with the 6G72. Tearstone sells their turbo kit with a 255 and 440cc injectors, so it should work fine.

The rough cold starts began after I installed the spark plugs and before the fuel pump. The fuel pump changed nothing.

edit: I do have another question for you guys. I've been looking for some tips on installing these 440cc injectors from Tearstone. Anybody have any suggestions (I know HOW to do this, but I'm just wondering if I need to know any specifics)?

Nothing out of the ordinary, as the injectors are a direct swap. You will need to buy new injector o-rings from the dealership, and you should be able to re-use the insulators. You do need to cut off the OEM connector clips and solder in the new ones.

I don't seem to have any fuel problems with the Walboro 255 and 440cc injectors - have you checked with Ripp to see if your setup would be okay with their kit? Their stage 1 kit uses 330cc injectors, but also a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Thanks for the tips on the injectors. I guess I should pick up some new o-rings from the dealership before I start anything.

[DOHCstunr]

I don't believe that is a problem with the 6G72. Tearstone sells their turbo kit with a 255 and 440cc injectors, so it should work fine.

The rough cold starts began after I installed the spark plugs and before the fuel pump. The fuel pump changed nothing.

edit: I do have another question for you guys. I've been looking for some tips on installing these 440cc injectors from Tearstone. Anybody have any suggestions (I know HOW to do this, but I'm just wondering if I need to know any specifics)?

Nothing out of the ordinary, as the injectors are a direct swap. You will need to buy new injector o-rings from the dealership, and you should be able to re-use the insulators. You do need to cut off the OEM connector clips and solder in the new ones.

I don't seem to have any fuel problems with the Walboro 255 and 440cc injectors - have you checked with Ripp to see if your setup would be okay with their kit? Their stage 1 kit uses 330cc injectors, but also a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.

get new orrings, and new lower seals(the ring that seats the injector into the manifold)
its a very very very common boost leak spot, as well as a culprit for vacuum leaks.
they turn into hard plastic over time. new ones are soft rubber.

[WarmAndSCSI]

I soldered on the new clips for the injectors. That went perfectly fine. I, however, am having a hell of a time figuring out how to fit these injectors. The lower spacer that is on the stock injector doesn't fit snuggly around the new 440cc injector bottom. The o-rings that go with the OEM injectors do not fill the gap at the top of the injector; I tried adding another o-ring behind the original one and this makes it fit.

When I try to push the injector up into the fuel rail, it doesn't fit like the OEM one. It pulls right out. I test fitted one injector and bolted the front half of the fuel rail back down and it fits fine, but I am able to rotate the injector around (it's not freely moving, but it can rotate).

I really need some help trying to figure out how to properly fit these 440cc injectors from Tearstone.

[Donovan]

Thanks for the tips on the injectors. I guess I should pick up some new o-rings from the dealership before I start anything.

PICS!

[WarmAndSCSI]

Okay, I have a real problem with these injectors. If I crank it, the engine will not turn over. If I unplug the fuel pump, the engine will turn over and run for about 20 seconds then it stalls. If I plug the fuel pump back in when the engine is running, the engine stalls immediately.

After I plug the fuel pump in after the engine successfully started, the engine will not start.

I think I may have too much fuel pressure and the injectors are flooding the engine with fuel when it is trying to start.

I did have a leak on one of the injectors but I fixed that. I cannot smell or see any more fuel leaks.

What do I need to do to get this configuration to work? My eManage Ultimate is setup under Add-only injection and I know for sure others had this same config with the eManage Blue, so I have no idea what is wrong.

[DOHCstunr]

are the new injectors high impedance?

[WarmAndSCSI]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>are the new injectors high impedance?</div>

Yes, they are ~15 ohm just like the stock ones. I think I figured out my problem though. I pulled out the injector that has leaked a few times and just left the OEM o-ring on it. It stopped leaking for a while and the engine was able to start. Eventually, I couldn't start the engine any more (mainly because this particular o-ring is a little messed up - it has a knick in it and it's kind of stretched out).

I plan on getting a new set of injector o-rings from the stealership. They better not charge me more than $10.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Well, I got everything running again. For the most part, everything is smooth with these new injectors. Sometimes it will stall at idle because the ECU doesn't want to enter closed loop (checked with data logger).

I guess I'll wait until I get my wideband before I do any serious tuning. I'm just glad it's running again. I need to replace one of the o-rings at the fuel sender under and replace that screw-on cap with a new one. That should help out my fuel system tremendously. Once that is done, I can reliably set my AFPR to about 35 psi.

If anybody has any tips about getting the eManage to have the engine idle smoothly with these 440cc injectors before I get boosted, please enlighten me. I think it will be better once I get more air flowing through the engine (hopefully) as it is running very rich right now. I could be wrong, though.

[DOHCstunr]

Well, I got everything running again. For the most part, everything is smooth with these new injectors. Sometimes it will stall at idle because the ECU doesn't want to enter closed loop (checked with data logger).

I guess I'll wait until I get my wideband before I do any serious tuning. I'm just glad it's running again. I need to replace one of the o-rings at the fuel sender under and replace that screw-on cap with a new one. That should help out my fuel system tremendously. Once that is done, I can reliably set my AFPR to about 35 psi.

If anybody has any tips about getting the eManage to have the engine idle smoothly with these 440cc injectors before I get boosted, please enlighten me. I think it will be better once I get more air flowing through the engine (hopefully) as it is running very rich right now. I could be wrong, though.

do a boost leak test. if ANY air is getting in past the mas, you will have idle and fuel mix problems. Would explain why you can't enter closed loop.
boost leak tests are a monthly must on FI cars with mas sensors.

pretty simple procedure. you can make the tester for about 10 bucks at home depot.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Could you tell me what I need from home depot? 8)

[seth98esT]

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

He is not supercharged yet.

[WarmAndSCSI]

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

He is not supercharged yet.

I think I might have a leak somewhere though.

[WarmAndSCSI]

I checked one of my brand new spark plugs and it has a very thick layer of dull black all over it. I'm surprised it can even still fire. I should probably replace these colder Zex plugs with the OEM-spec NGK plugs.

Do you think replacing these colder spark plugs will ease the rough starts with these injectors?

[DOHCstunr]

I checked one of my brand new spark plugs and it has a very thick layer of dull black all over it. I'm surprised it can even still fire. I should probably replace these colder Zex plugs with the OEM-spec NGK plugs.

Do you think replacing these colder spark plugs will ease the rough starts with these injectors?

there is no point to running colder plugs, or anything other than a stock plug gap if you aren't boosted yet.

run stock plugs.
then when you get boosted, run stock plugs with one heat range cooler to help ward off detonation. and gap your plugs appropriatly for the boost level you are running

[WarmAndSCSI]

Well, I was finally able to get everything running correctly. The car starts on like the first crank and the only problem is the cold start where I have smoke pouring out of my exhaust (spark plugs too cold).

It runs excellent as far as I can tell. I got the fuel pressure dropped down to ~30 psi to lean it out a bit. After a run on the interstate, I can smell my exhaust at the exit ramp when I'm waiting for the light; primarily the sulfur dioxide. I bet I burnt out my cats when I was running ~100% rich :oops:

Other than the smell, the performance is identical to before the fuel system upgrades (which is what I wanted to see). Until I get my AEM UEGO meter, I'm just going to run a little rich.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Well, my engine hasn't blown up yet (yay). I'm receiving my SDS kit sometime next week but I still have to wait to get the wideband installed.

Is there any decent place to weld a bung for the wideband on the stock exhaust manifold or down pipe? I know it should go behind the place where the two banks converge. Would it be okay just to monitor one bank until I get my headers installed?

Also, I keep on popping a P1400 (manifold diff. pressure sensor malfunction) even though I'm not boosted yet. I investigated and the ground for that line of sensors seems to be bad (about 80 ohms between that ground and the battery ground).

Would I probably be okay to just re-ground the stupid MDP at the engine side rather than trying to trace that connection back to the PCM? I recall manybrews saying that the MDP is just responsible for EGR monitoring... which I really don't care about.