My manual journey begins...

**DryBear** · 08-10-2006, 12:01 AM

Status:
turbo downpipe removed
IC piping in general area removed
Axles Removed
Crossmember and tranny mounts removed
Starter removed
bolts on plate -> torque converter removed
tranny -> engine bolts removed

Right now the !@&^&&# tranny doesn't want to let go of the engine - any of you local Bay Area peeps think you can give me a hand?

**DOHCstunr** · 08-10-2006, 02:39 AM

wow all that progress,
its amazing how many steps get added to simple tasks because of a turbokit.

don't forget to use all new gaskets when bolting all those exhaust flanges back together.

can't wait for you to lay that power down!

**DryBear** · 08-10-2006, 03:21 AM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>wow all that progress, Â*
its amazing how many steps get added to simple tasks because of a turbokit.

don't forget to use all new gaskets when bolting all those exhaust flanges back together.

can't wait for you to lay that power down!</div>

I actually didnt have to take off my exhaust manifolds, so that saves me some trouble.

But yeah, I'd recommend anyone wanting to go turbo+manual swap do the swap first - its double pain in the ass as all my wiring for sensors, gauges, alarm, etc were running through the hole where the clutch master cylinder goes, so I also had to pull out *all* that wiring and figure out a new place to re-run the wires
:explode:

Tip of the day - the support bracket for the right hand side axle has two bolts - I was trying for hours to get the durn thing out till I decided to check it with a telescoping mirror and found I only took out one bolt

**IceDouTGaLanT** · 08-10-2006, 03:27 AM

ur gona have rewire mostly everything on that emange correct? so napalms maps will be useless for us? and use the 2 lil M/T he has listed

**DryBear** · 08-10-2006, 11:48 AM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IceDouTGaLanT)</div><div class='quotemain'>ur gona have rewire mostly everything on that emange correct? so napalms maps will be useless for us? and use the 2 lil M/T he has listed</div>

The signals that the eManage monitors/modifies are not related to the tranny, so no, I shouldn't have to rewire the eManage. Unless you switch to a M/T ECU from a 3G eclipse, you would still use the same A/T wiring diagram.

**IceDouTGaLanT** · 08-10-2006, 12:00 PM

ahhh great news then

**DryBear** · 09-15-2006, 01:55 AM

Sooo

After many delays with family, work and stuff I finally get some time to work on the swap - unfortuantely, I got bit in the ass with wrong parts.

Apparently, Spec sent me the wrong stage 2 clutch - the holes where the metal dowels of the flywheel are supposed to mate up to the clutch pressure plate are too small. The dowels on my Fidanza flywheel are 8mm wide, which is the same on an OEM flywheel (also 8mm) - the hole for the metal dowel on the pressure plate I have is only 7.7mm. Grrrr. This was after waiting forever for the bracket that holds the shifter cables onto the transmission to arrive - that part was backordered forever.

**DryBear** · 10-13-2006, 11:32 AM

Update 10-13
Things I've learned:
*Make sure you have plenty of room to be able open the front doors all the way - its a pain to try and contort yourself to get at components under the dash.

*If you are going to have your tranny out but engine still in, get an engine stand/hoist to hold up the engine, as a floor jack will slowly drop over time. :doh:

After lots of delays I've finally been able to get back to work on the swap.

It turns out that I did have the correct clutch after all - after talking with Spec support, some of the powdercoating on the pressure plate probably pooled into the holes for the dowel pins - cleaned out the excess powder coat in the holes and the clutch plate now fits.

My biggest hurdle after that was getting the auto shifter unbolted from the firewall. The hardest part is that the bolts are in the cabin side, and is buried underneath the heater/air con unit. I didn't want to yank out the hearter air con unit as I would have to rip out the whole dash, and I didn't want to deal with the refrigerant lines if it came to it either. I considered trying to just cut the plate out, but that would be a big mess, and its still a bit of a squeeze from the engine bay side with the engine still in the car. I unbolted the cruise control module and was barely able to get the bolts out using a small 12mm flex ratchet.

To do:
* Install transmission and axles
* Install clutch hydraulic line
* Re-run alarm, and the crapload of gauge/sensor wires (wires were originally passes through the hole where the master cylinder goes)

**bronxbombr** · 10-13-2006, 11:52 AM

Nice going, you making good progress.

**DOHCstunr** · 10-26-2006, 04:36 PM

Dude your ride has been down forever!
can't wait to see it back in action.

So any updates?
Projected finish date?

**boostzealot** · 10-30-2006, 02:32 PM

drybear, you manual now or what man? lol. ive been checking on this post like once a week or so cuz im wondering how much more power you're going to put down from the manual swap alone. no one seems to have done a dyno comparo before and after. im dynoing mine one more time before i throw the manual in. i should have all my parts by friday so i can start the swap the next day. i'll be the only 8g in UT with a tranny swap. so many people around here are waiting for me to do the swap. but i just want to stop pretending with this auto like i got one

but really im looking for at least 20whp just from lowering my drivetrain loss.

**bronxbombr** · 10-30-2006, 08:35 PM

enuff excuses and get it done. Makes me wanna buy a 8G just to do and show you guys how easy the swap is. It just looks hard but the bark is worse than the bite

**DryBear** · 11-02-2006, 12:41 PM

Well for those of you who have actually done an *8G V6* swap - how the hell do you get the mofo back in? For four days I've tried every friggin combination of angles and whatnot but I keep getting caught on either the frame of the car where at the wheel, or on the clutch pressure plate (which is now all friggin scuffed up :evil: ). My last resort is to pull the engine out, but before I do that, if anyone has any tricks to get that shit in I'm all ears.

I do have to say everything else is should be cake once I get the transmission on, but I've been frustrated trying to wrestle the dern thing back in. So STFU unless you have anything useful to say. Sorry if I am being blunt, but I'm just tired and annoyed.

**8gV65spd** · 11-02-2006, 01:03 PM

This is going to be dangerous, but this is what I did. LOL, I had a tranny jack and that only helped to take the auto out.
I hope you have your car jacked up fairly high in the front. I put the transmission on my chest and scooted under the car. I then lifted it up carefully over the frame and dropped the shaft side at an angle by using my knees to hold the other side of the case steady.
Yes, it is dangerous and if your not physically capable don't try it.

**GOOSEY2099** · 11-02-2006, 01:19 PM

A lift comes handy in this situation, I also used a prybar

Calipso · 11-22-2006, 05:25 PM

Originally Posted by GOOSEY2099

A lift comes handy in this situation, I also used a prybar

You had to use alot more than a prybar to get my tranny in.

**GOOSEY2099** · 02-02-2007, 09:21 AM

Is this swap done yet?

**boostzealot** · 02-02-2007, 04:49 PM

you have to make sure that you can move the motor so you can basically line it up while its tilting down. thats how i did it but i had a jack under the motor and had the car on a lift so that i could just move the car. once i got the tranny lined up i just lowered the car onto the motor and tranny. please please please save yourself the hassle and do this with someone or with two people. its much more safe that way. hope to see it done soon. i love mine and im not even boosted yet.

Qs · 03-03-2007, 11:25 AM

were you able to connect your reverse light (backup lights ) and speedometer???

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