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Man, I missed all these replies. Ok here goes, this is going to be a long post.... im trying to start at the top of the 2nd page and answer questions in the order they were asked or correct any incorrent info.
the 4G64 does not have longer rods. The crank has a bigger stroke which is the cause for increased displacement. Believe it or not, the stock 8g 4G64 rods are the same as stock EVO rods, same part#'s. There are many combo's you can do and here they are.....
2.0 liter = 2.0 block and 2.0 crank and internals
2.1 liter = 2.4 block, 2.0 crank, 156mm rods, custom pistons (kits avail)
2.3 liter = 2.0 block, 2.4 crank, stock size rods, custom pistons (kits avail)
2.4 liter = 2.4 block, 2.4 crank and internals
2.4 liter long rod = same as 2.4 parts, but custom length rods and pistons
the longer rod gives a better rod ratio which allows for higher revs, safer
im going to discuss safe rev limits on all these motors. these limits are assuming you have an upgraded valve train.
2.0 = 9,000RPMs
2.1 = 10,500RPMs
2.3 = 7,500RPMs
2.4 = 7,500RPMs
2.4 LR =8,000RPMs
* I DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES RECOMMEND REVVING THE 2.1 LITER TO 10,500 RPMs ALTHOUGH IT HAS BEEN DONE BEFORE, SAFELY. IF YOU WANNA REV THAT HIGH, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ALOT OF EXTRA CASH TO FIX IT IF/WHEN IT BREAKS*
The Kia and the EVO head are not the same. Physically kinda, but not perfect. The water passages for the thermostat housing are not like the EVO's , the internals are not exactly the same, there is no hole to feed oil to the turbo. For the money you would spend on a bare kia head then all the parts to make it work, you can get an assembled complete EVO head for almost the same money, dont be cheap.
The 64 blocks and 63 blocks are both just as strong as the other. Believe it or not, Mitsu only has 1 casting. They cast a 4G64 block, deck it shorter, bore it less and add all the needed ports to make an EVO block, its the same thing. You can add oil squirters to a 64 block if you wish, however I really dont believe in them unless your doing hardcore road course racing. Some 4G64 blocks do have holes for knock sensors. I had a bare 4G64 block from a 2001 Eclipse that had this hole already there.
The 2.0 motor is nice, its a proven design. The 2.4 motor is a nice motor for a street/strip car, you will have more low end power and less turbo lag which makes for nice fun drives. If your only drag racing, the 2.0 is fine because your gonna be revving the hell out if it anyway so it will make good top end power. The 2.3 is also a nice street motor, good option for EVO guys who already have the block's, for us, a 2.4 is just as easy because we have the blocks and cranks. Any motor is only as strong as you build it. Use parts from reputable companies i.e. Eagle, Wiseco, Crower, Pauter, Manley, CP, Ross, JE, Arias, Carillo, etc.
Dont use used internals. When you build a block, everything is "made to order" so to speak. You dont just go to a machinist and say, "polish this crank and bore this block" If the machinist is reputable and you say that to him, he will usually tell you to go to hell. You need ALL the parts to do it. Each cylinder is individually bored to fit the pistons. Let say one piston of the four is slightly smaller, im talking like .001 smaller, its cylinder will be bored out .001 smaller to compensate. You cant polish a crank without the rods and bearings, because you need to check the tolerances so you know how much "room" you have to polish before things get out of spec. Its also important to let them know what type of headgasket you will be using. In most cases you will use a multi layer steel or better known as a MLS headgasket, which requires both the block and head surfaces to be completely, perfectly flat and polished to a certain spec.
Ahhhh....now on the world of ECU's. I know there are guys on EVOm with 2.4 DOHC motors running stock EVO ECU's that have been reflashed, so I know thats an option. In theory, you SHOULD be able to use a 3g ECU and get that flashed too but I cant be 100% sure. Best option is to rewire your stock harness ends to plug into the 3g/EVO ECU. The 3g ECU and EVO ECU have the same pin configuration. If your not the wiring type, contact Boomslang for an adaptor, or talk to GOOSEY, I think he spoke with them about making an adaptor harness that converts ours into the 3g connectors. Ideally you want a standalone if you can afford it AEM EMS seems to be the most popular because everyone and their mother knows how to use them. Keep this advice. Just because everyone knows how to use them, doesnt mean they know how to tune motors, or your motor for that fact. Choose a reputable tuner. EVOm has a whole section dedicated to different standalone systems.
When your doing your project, try to focus on each "system" individually. I know when I was doing mine, I was like a chicken with its head cut off. One day I was wiring a standalone (damn I wish I went plug n play) the next day I was running fuel lines, The next I was doing intercooler pipes, but nothing was completed. Try to complete each system before you jump to the next, sometimes this isnt possible, but try. Any wiring you need to do, get it done with the motor ouf of the car, makes things ALOT easier. Also with the motor out its the perfect time to scrubb all that dirt out of your engine bay and paint it (if you want to) if not, just clean it. If your swapping to 5 speed, also much easier if the motor is out of the car. No matter which combo you choose, the 3g tranny will bolt to both the 4g63 and the 4g64. Important side note, the stock EVO turbo/manifold combo puts the turbo too close to block to the point where you cant fit the starter in place. The EVO starter is under the trans, ours is in the front toward the top, the only way to avoid this is to use a Tearstone manifold and a T3/4 turbo, Make a spacer like Cali did, make a custom manifold, or use a 2g manifold and a DSM turbo and face it the wrong way. If you opt to use a 2g FWD DSM flywheel, you need a starter from a 2g FWD DSM. You also need to put a washer between the starter and the trans bell housing, the 2g starter is just slightly longer, you need a 1/8" washer, or any spacers or combo's of washers that amount to 1/8" If not you run the risk of the starter hitting the inside of the bell housing and cracking it, I learned this the hard way, trust me. I think that covers everything. Any more quetions, just post here and I will answer its easier then PM's because I must get like PM's a week asking the same questions.
In closing, always keep this in mind during your build....
Cheap and fast wont be reliable...
Reliable and cheap wont be fast...
Fast and reliable wont be cheap...
Originally Posted by qnz
2000 Mitsubishi Galant ES
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