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Reply With QuoteAH so you did figure it out..cool.Originally Posted by peanotation
Didnt think about the sensors
those 5 drain holes need to be plugged not only cuz the gs doesnt have them, but the 63 head leaves portions of these 5 holes exposed and you dont want something falling in there and causing you problems do u?
2014 Lancer Evo GSR
1996 Galant S 5 Speed Turbo
Need a Turbo rebuilt or upgraded--> http://www.thegalantcenter.org/showt...ebuild-Service
AH so you did figure it out..cool.
Didnt think about the sensors
"Why fart and waste it when you can burp and taste it!"
Its not as simple tho. Since we have OBD1 and OBD2 harnesses, the GS ECU is not a option for 96-98 guys who will need to pass inspection and the GS ECU just wont communicate with the OBD2 scanner. The best and cheapest option for 96-98 guys is the 96-99 Spyder GS ECUs if you want to stay N/A.
The list continues:
GS cam gears or Adjustable cam gears
Depending on what DOHC thermostat housing you use /1g is better and simpler/ you need the water pipe from water pump to thermostat
lower and upper radiator hoses
these are the freeze plug you need:
1x1/2 inch freeze plug; 2x5/8's freeze plugs, and 2x11/16's freeze plugs
94-95 Engines will need 1g CAS to work with 1g ECU or the GS ECU
96-98 Engines can use 1g CAS, but it needs some rewiring to reverse injector firing order and spark plug firing order, because the 2g Spyder and turbo ECUs cam signal has reversed polarity than 1g GAS.
The other option for 96-98 engines is 97-99 2g Turbo CAS and requires no rewiring.
APR studs /7 bolt engines have bolts, not studs/ are not mandatory, but the better option than OE or OEM 2g DOHC bolts
sorry to jump in but if a wire up a 1g cas can I clock it like a dist. or is it solid mount?
because where it would go looks like a freeze plug
yes 1g CAS is adjustable.
I dont understand whats the second thing youre asking about
where the cas would go there is what looks like a freeze plug...
got it that was what I was talking about, didnt know the 7g cas was gear side
bump
Last edited by mko; 09-28-2010 at 12:29 AM
Beautiful looks like it was supposed to be that way. Can you say plug n play. How much did the machine work set you back? very very sweet!
HAHA Leave it to MKO to figure it out! Good job bro! Looks great! Now lets see if we can get it to run:)
Any word on this set up? Is it running?
Thanks!
Ron
bump .....
stil trying to find a complete tutorial on this ...
MKo how much was the machine work/price? anything need to be done to the actual tooth? And could you possibly post more elaborate p[ctures of how much and where it needs to be machined off please? would greatly appreciete this!
did this work?
IDk dude, i found this on another forum and posted the pics here.
Basically, you need to take the distributor apart so only the body and shaft are left. thenyou need to take the 1g CAS apart down to body and shaft. The shop will have to get the pins that hold that little rotor then machine down the distributor shaft so the 1g rotor fits and then machine the distributor body so it looks like 1g CAS
Works great! I used a 92 distributor but I wish I had used the one on mko's pic. It looks like there is more room for adjustment on that one, my wire plug hits the thermostat housing.
Last edited by w/oarctic7g; 09-05-2011 at 12:33 PM
Not too sure if I understand, isnt that spot where the CAS could go where you would want to hook up the distributer?
Im trying to go ahead and make this work, I nabbed a complete 1g head for 68 bucks at the yard last week
Boost, its whats for dinner
Curious as to what spark plug wire you would use .??
Shout out to anyone that still uses hand tools for their work
With elbow grease for power and determination for a battery
Maybe your broke maybe your old school
Me I'm a lil of both
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