5spd swap

**6G72gearhead** · 12-05-2006, 10:46 PM

Ok, my auto seems to be in the final stages of total failure as overdrive seems to be slipping further and further away. I really want to do the 5spd swap, but first I must convince my dad that it will work, so I need to cover every aspect of it. Dont just tell me to search as I would like to just be able to show him this thread so we have one definative source and a total parts list.

As I understand it this is everything I will need for a 2001 ES V6, build date November of 2000 and built in Normal, Illinois.

Eclipse V6 Manual transmission F5M51- there is a -1 and a -2 version of this, does it matter which one
7 bolt V6 flywheel
Flywheel bolts
Shifter base and Cables- what hardware will this require
Clutch - I'll probably go with an aftermarket for an Eclipse
Clutch pedal and master cylinder
Brake Pedal- as I understand an option is to cut the stock brake pedal down to size
Slave cylinder
Manual Tranny mounts
Clutch line
Manual trans wireing harness
Passenger side inner axel
Engine plate
Mt Starter- I have also read that a 2nd gen starter will work as well, whats the stipulations for that.
Gear oil.

Thats all I can think of at the moment, please make sure all this info is correct. The reward for helping me with this now will be a very detailed tutorial with several memory cards worth of pictures and a complete parts list down to the hardware specs.
I have all the tools I could possibly need so thats not at all a problem
What exactly does the auto ecu immobilizer do, and if I dont need it for my '01 what year would you need it for.
I have bolded all that I still would like and answer too.

**DOHCstunr** · 12-05-2006, 11:05 PM

i woudln't cut the pedal cause the spacing between the pedals will be all fucked up.
being an autocross guy, you will want things nice and proper.
especially if left foot brake or heel-toe it.

**6G72gearhead** · 12-05-2006, 11:29 PM

Yeah I'd probably have done the new pedal anyway, I left foot brake but I physically cant heel toe, what I do is more toe heel if you get that. How does that look as far as the list, anything else to add.

**da1085** · 12-06-2006, 01:39 AM

Originally Posted by DOHCstunr

i woudln't cut the pedal cause the spacing between the pedals will be all fucked up.
being an autocross guy, you will want things nice and proper.
especially if left foot brake or heel-toe it.

i dont mean to just topic but i find it alot easier to drive bare feet to do the heel toe.....

as for parts try to rent a pilot bearing removal tool....it mkaes it alot easer to take of the spacer....well that if your engine will have the stupid spacer(7g had some so i dont know..

good luck with your swap!!

**bronxbombr** · 12-06-2006, 03:31 AM

Originally Posted by da1085

i dont mean to just topic but i find it alot easier to drive bare feet to do the heel toe.....

as for parts try to rent a pilot bearing removal tool....it mkaes it alot easer to take of the spacer....well that if your engine will have the stupid spacer(7g had some so i dont know..

good luck with your swap!!

they all have the spacer(pilot bearing). the key is to remove it. Mine came right out with no stress, but you might need a puller or a torch to heat it up.

You will need.

Clutch Master and Slave cylinders
Tranny(of course)
Pedal(clutch and brake)
shifter assembly
shifter cables
flywheel (7 bolt)
clutch and pressure plate
rear and front 5spd engine mounts(can reuse the front, and side engine mounts
tranny mount perches
Locktite
wire cutters
nice size breaker bar and piece of pipe or air tools
12,13,14,16,17,19,23mm socketd and spanners
torque wrench(not needed but recommended
Clutch line
BG syncro shift/synco mesh gear oil
Immobilizer.

If im forgetting anything feel free to add.

**GOOSEY2099** · 12-06-2006, 07:03 AM

Originally Posted by bronxbombr

they all have the spacer(pilot bearing). the key is to remove it. Mine came right out with no stress, but you might need a puller or a torch to heat it up.

You will need.

Clutch Master and Slave cylinders
Tranny(of course)
Pedal(clutch and brake)
shifter assembly
shifter cables
flywheel (7 bolt)
clutch and pressure plate
rear and front 5spd engine mounts(can reuse the front, and side engine mounts
tranny mount perches
Locktite
wire cutters
nice size breaker bar and piece of pipe or air tools
12,13,14,16,17,19,23mm socketd and spanners
torque wrench(not needed but recommended
Clutch line
BG syncro shift/synco mesh gear oil
Immobilizer.

If im forgetting anything feel free to add.

Ok, you do not need new front/rear/side mount/ecu+immobilizer/mt harness. only the tranny mount. there is no pilot bearing to remove. New flywheel for the v6 usually comes with new bolts. You need just the pass. side axel and not the whole thing either just the 2nd half that connects to the tranny. You will need a manual engile plate. and you will need a lot more tools then you've listed one of them is a 12mm swivel socket that way you can take out the shifter cable bolts. you will also need a unibit and a dremel for the clutch pedal. Please read my tutorial again

**DOHCstunr** · 12-06-2006, 10:07 AM

it adds to the cost a little but while you are doing this i'd highly reccomend some prothane motor mounts.
don't waste yoru money on overpriced "other" brands.
prothane is easy and they don't cost much.
eliminate wheel hop, and keep yoru shift throw consistant.

**6G72gearhead** · 12-06-2006, 04:30 PM

Ok I have a torque wrench and air tools so I'm not worried about the tools, what I am worried about is that I've read about an auto ecu immobilizer for the 2001, and also that the 2001 axels will work. I have energy suspension torque mounts (side mounts). I have experienced the crank spacer when I helped with a 7g swap, so I'll just rent the tool instead of messing around with it like we did.

**milo111000** · 12-06-2006, 04:37 PM

Auto ECU immobilizer so we don't need this one then??

phizz2k · 12-06-2006, 06:53 PM

Might help or might not but when I did my swap in the 7g, No one mentioned the screws that connect the Pressure plate to the flywheel, I found a 1g the junk yard that I was able to get the screws from, but at the time it was a bit of a hold back...

**GOOSEY2099** · 12-06-2006, 08:06 PM

do you have a problem with inspection in your state if you have a check engine light??

Calipso · 12-06-2006, 08:39 PM

Originally Posted by GOOSEY2099

do you have a problem with inspection in your state if you have a check engine light??

Semi off-topic, I'm just going to take the bulb out of the cluster for the SES light. I'll just go to autozone every month and have them pull the codes. Typical ones, no auto tranny this, no auto tranny that.

There is always a way to pass inspections, it's called run-down gas stations. Toss the guy a $20 and you'll pass.

**milo111000** · 12-06-2006, 09:27 PM

wow!! so if you swap, your ses will never be off then?

**GOOSEY2099** · 12-06-2006, 10:10 PM

read my post again. I havea 2001 and no codes and i pass nys inspections

**6G72gearhead** · 12-07-2006, 12:05 AM

fuck I live in kansas, there are no inspections period. So you didnt have to have the auto ecu thing. Do you know exactly what it does, thats one of my concerns. I'll need the passenger inside axel as well correct.

**bronxbombr** · 12-07-2006, 01:24 AM

Originally Posted by GOOSEY2099

Ok, you do not need new front/rear/side mount/ecu+immobilizer/mt harness. only the tranny mount. there is no pilot bearing to remove. New flywheel for the v6 usually comes with new bolts. You need just the pass. side axel and not the whole thing either just the 2nd half that connects to the tranny. You will need a manual engile plate. and you will need a lot more tools then you've listed one of them is a 12mm swivel socket that way you can take out the shifter cable bolts. you will also need a unibit and a dremel for the clutch pedal. Please read my tutorial again

Eh, I have a 7G and that is what i used. Maybe not even half of the stuff.

**seth98esT** · 12-07-2006, 02:39 AM

(For a 7g) Alls you need to remove/install the trans is:

Sockets:
-32mm(axle nuts), 17mm, 14mm, 12mm, 10mm(if you have the stock airbox)

Open ends(Optional):
-17mm, 14mm

Randomness:
-Breaker bar/pipe
-Flat head screw driver
-A few random size socket extensions help

Thats about it. You can go to walmart, spend $50(or less) on tools, and be able to remove your own trans.

Of course for the conversion you would have to add a dremell to the list to cut the holes out for the slave cylinder.

I can remove my transmission from my car in 1hr 20min, start to finish. Im quite proud of myself :)

Tim(I hate calling you 6g72gearhead haha!) Just keep editting your original post so all the bs in the thread is filtered out.

**boostzealot** · 12-07-2006, 02:49 AM

im a little confused. im also doing the swap for a 2000 v6 and mine along with a lot of other guys have an eight bolt flywheel. just wondering. make sure you pay attention to all the details as there are very many people who have done a flawless swap and have posted about it. reading the forums can be tedious but nonetheless is quite important when venturing into something like this.