can it be....the first manual G in quebec? UPDATED WITH PICS

[Qs]

well both are on then

my service engine soon light came on after i took off my catralic converter

but the SRS light came on after the swap



anyway i dont mind, like i said i want to remove the airbad ( i want to change my steering wheel )

[milo111000]

awright!!!!!

[Qs]

heres the 2 pics my half brother took as we were starting up the swap

and the lasts are the fisnished products ( inside only, was -25 C again today)

i can feel the torque...and i love it

http://www.mediamax.com/theeqs/Hoste...s/DSC00238.JPG

http://www.mediamax.com/theeqs/Hoste...s/DSC00239.JPG

http://www.mediamax.com/theeqs/Hoste...s/DSC00250.JPG

http://www.mediamax.com/theeqs/Hoste...s/DSC00251.JPG

http://www.mediamax.com/theeqs/Hoste...s/DSC00252.JPG

[IceDouTGaLanT]

I bet this is one of the best mods you did to your car huh?? i love my swap so much, i was looseing insterst in my G and thinking of selling it, but after the 5-speed im back in love with it...congrats bro

[milo111000]

I bet this is one of the best mods you did to your car huh?? i love my swap so much, i was looseing insterst in my G and thinking of selling it, but after the 5-speed im back in love with it...congrats bro

that's how i feel right now.. but don't have the cash for a swap.. still looking around the guam junks that don't have shit but civics.. but right now i really want a vr engine.. then i'll never lose interest on my g ever..

[fatal1]

well the vr4 engine will be redculous $ to install etc.......damn -25 C no wonder your drinking age is 18 lol for your srs tho your cat (o2 sensor) can be plugged or have the stock hole welded shut you extend the wire drill a new hole and add in the mod aftyer and you should be good hope you dont have obd 2 inpections there lol

[milo111000]

yup way too much money to install.. but love to have one though..

[8gV65spd]

I have the answers for your wiring problems. I have a 03 v6 which used the same input and output shaft sensors. The wiring is simple to do and will eliminate your codes. I'll get back with in a couple of days with wire diagram, wire colors, and pin numbers. CONGRATS!

[FrankMB]

WTTC

[shortdogg2k05]

I have the answers for your wiring problems. I have a 03 v6 which used the same input and output shaft sensors. The wiring is simple to do and will eliminate your codes. I'll get back with in a couple of days with wire diagram, wire colors, and pin numbers. CONGRATS!

If this is true, you will be praised by all 02-03 owners!

[Qs]

first of all , gramar police bite me! im french!
also , the better you are equipped in tools, and in life the easier this will be

and now for the spoonfulls

pics on

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=a940643c59

ok so on the usdm 1999 galant , there is no difference on the front of the car that i could notice so far, inside however, the fuse unit on the side of the dash driver side is different from the 2002 and 2003 models, its located in the same spot but the fuse placement is different. heres a few pics of the tranny swap.
TRansmission was from a 2003 canadian model eclipse eclipse .

so the parts needed for the swap are :


be aware that one can use a 1994-99 eclipse to do the swap, but theres a few differences and im not sure if everything is the same but i will mention it along thee way)
So the main instructions will be for 2000-05 eclipse and (side notes will be for the 94-99)

-manual transmission
-clutch disc
-manual flywheel bolts ( the automatic one from the galant could be used but the issue comes down to how many threads locks-in in the engine( pictures below) only about 3 turns of threads will go through the eclipse OEM flywheel if using the galant bolts, and about 7 to 8 turns of threads if using the proper flywheel bolts, do not use longer bolts as they will either rub on the clutch plate or will damage the engine/flywheel
-pressure plate
-clutch fork
-clutch bearing ( BUY A NEW ONE, DO NOT REUSE OLD BEARINGS, ITS JUST 20$ +-)
-clutch slave cylinder (94-99 trannies have a diff mounting point for the slave and it is shaped a bit differently, 94-99 slaves do not fit on 00-05, i did not try a 00-05 model on a 94-99 )
-clutch line ( a regular 1 piece of soft, or hard or any custom made hose as long as both ends fits on the master and slave clutch cylinder
-clutch master cylinder
-manual transmission mount
-00-05 or 8g starter ( if using a 94-99 starter , use 1/8 spacers between the starter and tranny as seen in goosey's swap and in my evo swap pics )
-shifter cables
-shifter assembly , oem shifter and shifter bushings,
-manual clutch and brake pedals . Automatic brake pedal is wider than the manual, but the gas is the same and does not need to be changed.
-holesaw drill bit 13/64 i think it was. they are usually sold in kits from varying sizes.
17mm long neck is really useful, required are 8mm to 17mm no idea what they use in the states

and thats it .

it would be wise to remove the grade 4 bolts and replace them with grade 7 or 8 , but not required

removal of the parts .

( removal under the hood)

-unscrew battery poles and remove battery , then remove the plate underneath.
-remove the entire oem air intake kit for room clearance , all the kit to the point of the intake manifold.
-remove the starter
- you can drain the auto tranny fluid by removing the plug , but i always used the radiator hose to do most of the emptying
-unclip the tranny oil lines
-unplug the 2 oil lines from the radiator ( the same radiator is kept for the car, you can plug the holes using a custom plug or bolt
-unclip de auto shifter cables from the tranny
-unplug the automatic harness.
make sure you have clearance at right of the brake booster, this is where the master cylinder is going to be installed

depending on how you lift the car the next few steps can change order , consult below to be sure

(inside the car)

-removing the front driver seat gives more room to work and is quite fast and easy 2 bolts in the front and 2 in the rear, unclip the harness and voila , seat undone
- now remove the brake pedal, unclip de harness and unclip cruise control wire (to be removed or placed aside), at the left of the brake, on the firewall, theres a cutout on the foam shaped like a circle but held on by just the 2 sides, pull on it to rip it and exposes the small metal plate , you can actually see the pre-traced hole for the master cylinder and 2 smaller one for the bolts.
-use the holesaw bit to drill through the small plate and use a diff bit for the bolt holes.
-do not install the master cylinder right away, the 00-05 models comes with a prewelded stud and 1 hole, but the clutch pedals must be fitted before so both are screwed together with the firewall .
-remove the automatic shifter assembly, unclip the side harness, unclip de hand brake wire
-remove the glovebox door, pull back the floor carpet aand expose the airbag computer from the middle console underneath the heating compartement.
- ( FYI the ecu is behind the piece of plastic behind the glovebox compartement, ) the glovebox is heaving because of a metal plate inside to prevent rattling
- u can remove the computer for clearance and is easy with a 10mm wrench but some of the bolts could be rusted from underneath and at a measely grade 4 they they tend to break easily,
unscrew the 2 bolts holding the automatic shifter from the firewall. ( for this part the clearance is small, , the first time i did the swap i removed the entire heating unit.... complicated , time consuming and not worth the trouble, especially since its a handful to assemble back together and adjust after it .

( inside installation)

-insert and bolt the shifter cables in the firewall ( 1 bolt can be used and 1 stud and bolt can be used on the other side if one drills through
install manual shifter assembly , 4 bolts+ few misc
connect cable to the shifter assembly
instal manual brake pedal and plug harness , 4 bolts
fit in the clutch master cylinder,then when its correctly in place , fit in the clutch pedal and lock it in . the holes for top bolts of the clutch pdeal are already pre-drilled in our 8g and not plugged look for them through your wiring , 4-6 bolts
make sure you havent forgotten to clip back anything

- jack car securely ( a lift would be best)



remove the 2 front tire,
remove the ball joint bolt,

once remove you can either remove the entire coilover unit for clearance but is not required,
you can either unscrew the axle from the wheel bearing or you can pull on the axle and it will pop from the tranny,( careful not to bend the shock)
i did the swap 3 times,4 with the evo swap, each time i popped the axle and never had any issues putting them back in or with noises, or breakage afterwards, top quality axles right there from mitsubishi
once the axles removed from tranny, the order of the next few steps is depending on how your car is jacked, lifted .

( underneath the car )
remove the protection plate from the tranny, u can reuse the G one
most of the transmission bolts are accessible from under the hood, but there is one in the rear u can unscrew while underneath for better clearance.

u need to remove the front crossmember 2 bolt in front and 3-4 on the back, careful they rear ones can break so either heat them with a torch, or carefully unscrew them.
3 engine mounts need to be unscrewed. if your stuck like me , on a tight TIGHT budget, i lower the car on the ground right after unscrewing the crossmember ( u loose the support of 2 mounts removing the crossmember, so leaving the engine ''hanging'' in midair is giving all the stress to the 2 side mounts. so lower the car so you can fit beneath it. Then with a kit of custom made shims, make sure the tranny will have support and wont fall down when everything is unscrewd, i once used a rimmed tire and a wooden stair board and it worked like a charm
the goal is that the tranny stays in place when u unscrew it, that no stress applies on diff parts of the engine/tranny/bolts. it is a wise idea to do the same underneath the engine, using a softer shim not to damage the oilpan and engine block ( old thick magazines/books are quite reliable lol but tend to look ...well who cares how it looks lol )
then unscrew the tranny mount. and the remaining tranmission bolts,

now the tranny is being held in place by your trusty custom made shim underneath it. the engine is staying leveled because it is still clipped to the tranny . You cannot just let the tranny drop as it will damage the innerds. you need to , while keeping it leveled with the engine, pull it away from the engine towards the driver side wheel well . you only need to pull it out for an inch or 2 before you can lower it to the ground. if theres is too much pressure on the shims, you can jack the car just a bit so it will unwedged the tranny from the shim /engine , but careful not to bend anything,
once the tranny removed a bit of oil is bound to leak so make sure you got some rags close by .
removing the bell housing can be tricky , you need to unscrew it from the flywheel from behind as seen in the pictures below.


and voila the entire removal is done .

(under the hood installation car is still jacked without tranny, make sure you keep ur shims supporting the engine, otherwise you WILL break you passenger side mount and probably heavily damage the engine itself)

-install the flywheel
install the pressure plate
-install the clutch disc
install new bearing on fork and in manual tranny ,

bolt the manual tranny to the engine u can use the same shim system to level it to the engine , the slowly bring them together so u dont have to go all hercules and keeping it steady while screwing it in.
before celebrating. make sure to correctly install the manual transmission mount. then you can celebrate as most of the work is done.
screw back the crossmember and the front and rear engine mounts, so now you can remove the shims.

-install the slave cylinder on the tranny,make sure it is aligned with the tranny fork, and plug in the clutch line hose.
-connect the 2 shifter cables to the tranny shifter arms.
-install the starter
-the manual tranny has no oil so dont bother with the automatic oil lines, and oil holes on the rad.
-connect the clutch line hose to the master cylinder.

and your about done after reinstalling the air intake, battery and replugging the axles,


i know its not perfects but i will clean/add to it in time , as long as it doesnt get deleted .



so no difference whatsover in 1999 models for manual transmission swap.


i can also confirm that it is drivable with only 3 engine mount, as the transmission i bought had the rear one cracked on the transmission casing, so it is not repairable unless you weld aluminium to it and it is a bit costly.