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1997 Mitsubishi Galant DE
Reply With QuoteThats like me and Denver's cars...I changed my rims, but for a while our cars were pretty much identical as well. Weird
Originally Posted by ohgrfreak
ya i got tint, it's just tooooooooo light. the only slight diffrence is the rims, i got jdm heads too!
"DSM's, making people mechanics since 1985"
Thats like me and Denver's cars...I changed my rims, but for a while our cars were pretty much identical as well. Weird
"Why fart and waste it when you can burp and taste it!"
cause this has everythign to do with the topic of modification
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1994 Galant GS-Turbo
nice find seth, ill do this after my change up this month if my front is not as low as i want it.
1994 GS DOHC 2.4L 5spd (For Sale)
1996 S SOHC 2.4L 5spd (Up and Running)
Since my 8g JDM is 4 lug and has the 7g suspension.. I can do this right? my back sits about 1.1" lower than my front. never thought of this!!
Tried this for some time.. I took the bolt off.. that took a while! and then I tried to pull the fork up, it just would not move.. I need some help with this apparently.. or perhaps there something I'm doing wrong ? I tried to take the hood up.. and push on it but the strut bar wouldn't move!
Nobody that knows ? :P
not sure if this is right but, it could be because you have an 8g and the struts are a different type and it wont work on them, this is a 7g thread
My 8g is a JDM.. and it shares the same suspension as the 7th gen. as far as I know..
Nobody who knows this? since my 8g JDM has the 7th GEN suspension.. the strut looks a little bit different, but still.. the fork is there, this is only in the front on mine.. but still it doesn't move? should I use a hammer, or is this maybe not possible for mine?
And the weird thing is, I measured how much i could put the fork up.. and it was 1.4" and the thing is that the gap in the back is 1.4" less than in the front..
Front Gap: 3.5"
Back Gap: 2.1"
I would still like to know the proper method to remove that "tab" thing in the way. I don't want to mindlessly whack away blindly at the thing in fears of breaking something.
i woudl get a chissel. not a screwdriver.
put the chissel up against the tab
and hammer straight down or straight up into it.
not into the strut but into the tab.
or,
you coudl lossen the clamp on the fork and drive around for a hour or so lol.
but i wodn't reccomend it.
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1994 Galant GS-Turbo
Lol, I should find a nice deserted road and do some hard brakes from a good speed (after loosening the forks) to transfer all the weight forward and "WHAM!". That could be brutal.
actually that is exactly how i discovered the mod,
maybe not in the desert, or after intentionally loosineng the fork,
but i apparently didn't tighten the bolt on the fork enough and it slipped. one day i'm looking at my suspenion and noticed the variance from the left to the right.
go ahead and loosen the fork if you wish, i woudln't leave it commpletely loose, but maybe 1/2 turn past snug.
that way the fork will just slip up , instead of the dramatic collapse as discribed in yoru previous post
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1994 Galant GS-Turbo
It sounds like it could work, but still having suspension bits moving around while driving, that could mess up some things... I'm more worried about having to make a trip to get a alignment afterwards than anything else. Like if the motion jars another suspension piece or something to that effect. Heck, I'll go out there right now and see what I can do, I'll report back later, I'll loosen the bolt about a quarter or a half turn and hope it slips a bit, I'll drive it like a gramma though...
I messed up, huge.
The front driver's side fork bolt took a mere 20 seconds to get loose taking my 2 foot torque wrench acting as a breaker bar. The passenger side, well... I spent a good hour on it, it wouldn't budge in the first place soley due to placement. I have to remove the sway bar link first, but guess what, the ENTIRE BOLT including the threads it attaches to spin. The bolt will not spin off of the threads, the entire assembly spins. Okay, so I can't take off the sway bar link to get a good shot at the fork bolt on the passenger side, so I head to the local autoparts store and buy a longish 17mm open/closed ended wrench, it'll be thin enough to squeeze in there. (every 17mm socket I have found are the same heigth and will not fit). So I take the wrench and start yanking away at it. I still cannot get good placement, brake lines in the way, move the wrench slightly to the left, um, there's a strut there, lol... Needless to say, the passenger side did not happen BUT...
The bad part. The bad part is the clunk-a clunk-a sound associated with a rubber cricket sound. Rubbing? No flippin way, can't be, I removed and reset the wheel (front passenger side) several times, and the same thing happens. Clunk-a Clunk-a associated with a rubber squeak every tire revolution. Sway bar came loose? No, it's still solid. There's no resisitence that I can tell, I idle forward no problem. Tie rod? Hub bearings? But my car had the recall done already.
Help! I messed it up!
Nothing's rubbing on the CV boot is it?
I solved the problem, I'm selling my wheels! No matter what happens, no matter how carefully I torque the wheels, no matter how well I think they are centered, they come loose! WTH? My Borbets never did this on their own, and they are torqued to the exact same spec, 95lbs.
Back on the subject of the lowering, I still cannot seem to get good access to the one fork bolt, and the driver's side where I loosened up the bolt, nothing happened. I guess I'm going to save up and get some real quality wheels and some lowering springs and do it the right way, lol.
You need a 14mm wrench on back of the end link and a 14mm to loosen the nut. Then you can access that fork bolt.
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