The Galant Center - Powered by vBulletin

Thread: Turbo Rebuild Questions.

Showing results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1

    Turbo Rebuild Questions.

    I am upgrading the shitty T3/T4 turbo and manifold with an ever so gracious donor from Laxinwarrior :smt023 . It is a Hahn Racecraft DSM Super 16G, http://www.hahnracecraft.com/. I figured on getting a rebuild kit to get it back to spec, although it does not look very used. The company’s selling point on the turbo is it uses DSM internals for easy part replacement.

    Is their a particular company that has a rebuild kit that exceeds the factory kit? Be nice to put this turbo on and leave it on for a while. The oil inlet/outlet, coolant lines and possibly spacers (if needed). The oil adaptors for the turbo I have now are soft aluminum and leak no matter how “snug” they are wrenched in. Also, (praying to god) is there a dump-pipe supplier yet? If not, how about a 3 bolt flange supplier? I am hoping I do not have to purchase a 5 bolt flange, just to plasma torch it.

    If there is a reason that I should NOT get this manifold, let me know by Wednesday 8-15-07.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...150391544&rd=1

    Here are some pictures of the turbo after painting with VHT Flame-proof flat black. It needed to have a staged heat treatment for durability (heating to 200 deg/cool-down, 400 deg/cool-down, 600 deg/cool-down, 800 deg cool-down then 1000 deg).










  2. #2
    You are here entirely tooo much!! seth98esT's Avatar
    Join Date
    08-01-2002
    Location
    Keokuk, IA
    Posts
    8,348
    I think Forced Performance has a rebuild kit. Whatever you do, you HAVE to have a shop balance the turbo or the life expectancy will not be met.
    7g for life!

  3. #3
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Stewi's Avatar
    Join Date
    08-04-2003
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    4,344
    What type of T3/4 turbo did you have that your going back to a mitsu turbo? did you have problems with your old turbo? I personally would never go to a mitsu turbo, but thats just my opinion. Now, that VHT heat coating looks good and all, but I promise there is absolutely no way its going to stay on there, after the first real heat cycle it goes thru with the motor running and driving, all that paint is going to burn off or flake off. Its good to either 1000 or 1200 max temp and 600 degrees continuous. Your turbine housing average temperature while making boost is about 1500 degrees. Even the 1200 degree jet hot coating wont hold up to that heat, I know, I had it flake off my manifold so I had to go to the 2000 degree coating.
    Quote Originally Posted by qnz
    well there are talkers and there are do'ers. talkers never do. and do'ers never talk
    99' Galant ES
    4G64/63T
    AEM EMS

  4. #4
    I am guilty of running an E-Bay special, so consider this an upgrade.

    The paint is this;


    I heard nothing but good things from my stock car buddies, hoping it will handle the heat.

  5. #5
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Stewi's Avatar
    Join Date
    08-04-2003
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    4,344
    Quote Originally Posted by mtcavity1
    I am guilty of running an E-Bay special, so consider this an upgrade.

    The paint is this;


    I heard nothing but good things from my stock car buddies, hoping it will handle the heat.
    Yeah but stock cars are typically all motor setups with racing fuel and they tend not to run as hott as turbo motors.
    Quote Originally Posted by qnz
    well there are talkers and there are do'ers. talkers never do. and do'ers never talk
    99' Galant ES
    4G64/63T
    AEM EMS

  6. #6
    S*&T...



    You say, "I had to use a 2000 deg paint", right? What/where can I find it?

  7. #7
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Stewi's Avatar
    Join Date
    08-04-2003
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    4,344
    Quote Originally Posted by mtcavity1
    S*&T...



    You say, "I had to use a 2000 deg paint", right? What/where can I find it?
    Nope. I said I had to use 2000 degree coating. Its applied sort of like powder coating and baked on. They sell heat wrap, its not the gay kind that looks like tape, but it sort of looks like woven material, almost like the straps on a backpack and you wrap it around your manifold, downpipe etc. Its like $50 for 150 feet of this stuff and it holds to 2000 degrees. Its a simpler alternative if you dont want to get the stuff coated.
    Quote Originally Posted by qnz
    well there are talkers and there are do'ers. talkers never do. and do'ers never talk
    99' Galant ES
    4G64/63T
    AEM EMS

  8. #8
    I plan on using Thermo-tec Wrap again (for piping), but I want to keep the turbo from rusting. Will powder coating handle the heat, or is there a ceramic based product (like color tile glaze)?

  9. #9
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Stewi's Avatar
    Join Date
    08-04-2003
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    4,344
    Quote Originally Posted by mtcavity1
    I plan on using Thermo-tec Wrap again (for piping), but I want to keep the turbo from rusting. Will powder coating handle the heat, or is there a ceramic based product (like color tile glaze)?
    I dont think its ceramic, but you can get it with ceramic. The one I have is pretty serious, they apply like this rough coating with a flame thrower, then they put a black powdercoat on top and bake it. It held up fine for me and for a few others I know. Your best bet is to speak with your local powder coating shop and explain to them what you need and they will point you in the right direction. there is a place upstate NY called Swain Tech or something like that, they have a coating called White Lightning, its exactly what I have but its from a different company and rather than leaving it white, I had them coat black over it. Just to give you an idea of what your going to spend, I had the turbine housing, exhaust manifold and wastegate dump coated for $225
    Quote Originally Posted by qnz
    well there are talkers and there are do'ers. talkers never do. and do'ers never talk
    99' Galant ES
    4G64/63T
    AEM EMS

  10. #10
    Not as much aesthetics, more for rust protection and possibly better heat deflection. I’ll look around here, there should be someone local that can do this, worst case I’m sure I could ship it to Swain Tech.

    You think there is any reason I should get the Rev Hard EVO manifold coated also?

    The price does not seem that high considering the process, just need all the parts to send it out all at once.

    I will be going to Extreme PSI for the rest of the setup; they have every part I need (except the dump-pipe).

  11. #11
    Permanent install PLX wideband O2 sensor and gauge.


    The Hahn Racecraft Super 16G (rebuilt and balanced) mounted to the new Rev hard cast iron EVO manifold (although I am getting new hardware like nuts and bolts). I cut, spun and re-welded the aluminum out-put to the compressor 180 degrees to fit my system...the best I could. I need the 1/2 inch spacer and longer studs to clear the starter. I might modify the wastegate arm with an offset to get around any other clearance issues.








    Still need to re-do the entire intake/intercooler plumbing to solid piping like Icedout’s (His shit is SOOO clean). And the entire exhaust system is going to be replaced with 2 ½ to 3 inch piping.

Posting Rules

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •