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Reply With Quotedid u break the brakes in correctly? if not that coudl be ur problem
did u torque everything to spec?
did u use some anit squeel on the pads?
did u make sure to clean everything off with brake cleaner?
I installed the rotors and brake pads from the GB
I got a I4 99
I did the install with my dad.
hrm
i noticed that it was really really really hard to remove the 2 bolts behind the rotor.
But we got it off
now the problem
after we got everything on.
it seems to squeak when i slow down.
and
if i use the brakes on the highway
the front end of the car vibrates A LOT!!
VERY bad shaking
soo
what is wrong
i know it was probly a bad install by car newbies (me)
cause other ppl who got the same rotors and pads dont have problem
should i bring it to the dealer to have them look at it?
or is there some steps i need to go over again?
or should i bring it to a near by gas station mechanic for him to fix it (much cheaper than dealer)
any ideas?
thanks sooo much...
did u break the brakes in correctly? if not that coudl be ur problem
did u torque everything to spec?
did u use some anit squeel on the pads?
did u make sure to clean everything off with brake cleaner?
[size=10]<span style='color:white'>. . . .</span>
Originally Posted by PinoyESV6
i have no clue how to break the breaks in correctly. please help
what kind of tool do i need to get so i know how much torque i've put on it already? I have no clue right now. I just tighten it.
for the anti squeel. I put that on the pad itself right? where the rotor and pad meets. and I need to cover the whole pad?
clean everything with brake cleaner. how clean does it have to be?
should i unscrew the two bolts that is holding the caliper and clean everything in between?
thanks soo much PinoyESV6
Here's some great info on breaking in rotors and pads and also info on the myths about brakes from STOPTECH.
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped...rotors_myth.htm
http://www.stoptech.com/faq/
[size=10]<span style='color:white'>. . . .</span>
if its a new rotor and new pads, you should not have the problem. the wheel could be loose, the caliper can be loose from the two bolts you mentioned.
it should be on the box for the pads or something like that. thats where i remember reading it all the time
your tool store should have something called a torque wrench...get that
i just spray things as things get put together...
hrm
i didn't know that slotted rotors had to fitted on the correct side.
depends on the pattern of the slots.
hrm
i think i need to redo the install
and i hope i didn't damage the pads and rotors
i didn't do any break in (shit)
i am going to get brake cleaners/grease
and a torque wrench
i am going to follow your advices EXACTLY
soo scared..
i really dont have more money to get a new set of rotors and pads..
i didn't get ANY instructions with the rotors and pads.
is that normal?
installation instructions you are not gonna get. but break in suggestions u might get. if not do a search on google or ask the manufacturer
i just want to thank you guys again for such fast replys and all your effort to give me ideas and tips.installation instructions you are not gonna get. but break in suggestions u might get. if not do a search on google or ask the manufacturer
TGC is truly a kick ass place.
FinalLast, you'll be surprised how much better quality aftermarket parts are so it's really not likely that you'll ruin them just like that. In the suggestions for breakin, they give you the worst case scenario. So unless you go racing or put them to extreme situations and use, it's really not likely you'll damage them so easily. Now that doesn't mean that you shouldn't break them in properly. You should feel (and not hear, lol) your brakes perform equal if not a lot better than the stock brakes if done properly. Just follow any directions that come with your parts and anything you're not sure of, ask the manufacturer, seller, or us for opinions and/or tips. Good luck.
[size=10]<span style='color:white'>. . . .</span>
Damn...so this is gonna be a tuff thing to install...I got my stuff yesterday from the group buy I was running...cross-drilled and slotted...
which way should they be installed, and is there a tutorial around for this..
I don't need em yet....but I plan on installing in the Spring...
Jason - - cofounder of TGCNY
click banner to enter the NY Chapter
2001 Galant ES
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition
Don't spray it on the pad surface (contact surface) follow the directions on the can. Also, the anti squeek spray for me lasted about 1 month and I now have an annoying squeel on slow braking. I might have to reinstall and apply again.
i have no clue how to break the breaks in correctly. please help
what kind of tool do i need to get so i know how much torque i've put on it already? I have no clue right now. I just tighten it.
for the anti squeel. I put that on the pad itself right? where the rotor and pad meets. and I need to cover the whole pad?
clean everything with brake cleaner. how clean does it have to be?
should i unscrew the two bolts that is holding the caliper and clean everything in between?
thanks soo much PinoyESV6
1999 2.4l
- AEM Short Ram with Blitz Sonic Air Filter
- Magnecore Wires & Denso Iridium Plugs
- Throttle Body rebored by ProFlow
- Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
- Throttle Cable adjustment
- Freedom Design Strut Bar
- Tein Springs
- KYB AGX setting 1
Exterior:
- 2nd Gen JDM Tails
- New rear 02 Molding
- Debadged Mitsubishi lettering
ok so does anyone know which sides the slotted rotors go?
if they are the wrong side that causes a problem i've heard.
i went out today and saw LOTR TT (good movie)
and on the way back i got a 1/2" Dr. Micrometer Adjustable Torque Wrench (10-150 Ft. Lbs.) I HAVE NO CLUE HOW TO USE IT !!!
got a spray that is suppose to get rid of sqeaks on brakes
and a got brake cleaner sprays also.
I am going take apart the brakes again 2morrow to redo everything.
I am going to clean everything, spray the anti-squeak, and torque EVERYTHING to factory SPECs
I pray that it will work.
cost about $50 for everything.
Based on everyone elses purchase of the rotors, I know the box each rotor came in was clearly marked Left or Right side.
As for the use of the torque wrench, you just have to spin the base of the handle until it reaches the torque rating you want. Should be marked notches that go from whatever to 150 lbs. on the part that doesn't move. On the base that spins, it should be marked from 0 to 9. These are the pounds in between. Say you want to set it at 75 lbs., just keep turning the base of the handle until you past "70" on the handle and the part where you turn is on "5". That's 75 lbs. Just make sure you are reading Pounds (lbs) instead of Newton/Meters (NM).
[size=10]<span style='color:white'>. . . .</span>
I emailed Wood and this is the response I got regarding the install
The slot should slant backward.
This is slant line is the front left. ////////
Jason - - cofounder of TGCNY
click banner to enter the NY Chapter
2001 Galant ES
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition
I redid everything
now its fine
what was wrong was when my dad put the brakes back together he reversed the lock pin and guide pin.
clean all parts
applied the anti squeak
everything smooth like butter
kindda regret not getting the rear ones
i got a 99 i4
i believe i need shoes in the rear right?
are the rear ones hard to do?
if they are not too hard i might just do eveything all together.
will changing the rear shoes make a big difference?
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