running rich

[Johnathansgalant]

I need major help -- a month ago my car suddenly ran too rich after some highway playing.. The car bogged at 90mph on light acceleration and my turbo never spooled the same.. Check for boost leaks and found none but found my wastegate vacuum hose was burnt into two pieces.. Fixed it and same issue.. Check my spark plugs and they read fine with brownish light brown on the tip and the rest black from what i gather -- the tip looked clean... i removed everything and put it back together making sure everything was tight and ended up finding out my turbo compressor wheel had resistance when spinning and figured it was fried.. i then noticed when taking it apart the center section bolt was a little loose already -- centered the compressor housing and put it back together and the turbo now spins like new no issues.. Still running majorly rich.. Installed an evo rail and fpr and same issue as i thought i overran or blew the stock fpr.. I tried leaning out everything and the same result -- I have tightened and retightened all i could find and i am lost... Anyone have an idea of what i can do? ID appreiciate the help..

[Stewi]

When you say your running very rich, how are you figuring this out? wideband? AFR gauge? If you were really rich, the plugs would be black, when you accelerate hard you would send a cloud of black smoke out the muffler, etc? What signs are you getting? Do any of the plugs look different than the others?

[Johnathansgalant]

wideband -- when accelerating hard - i start to get a little black smoke but i back off at 10 afr -- if i dont the car stutters -- i am using an innovate lc1 wideband.. I tried recalibrating and other standard things and no luck .. i also smell fuel after the runs -- the plugs are black on the sides and light brownish on the tip.. I was running the car in open loop to tune how i wanted it and i would cruise at high 13s to low 14s and when i get on it it will go to 12 quickly then stay at low 11s through out the run... Now i accelerate and it gots to 11 and starts to dip very fast regardless of my emanage settings. All the plugs have the same results. My coils dont seem to be damaged. MY boost leaks hold 10psi because thats what i go to and it starts to drop slowly afterwards..

I know u can have rich knock and what not but if i wanted to give it a wot run all the way running it rich for a few runs will that damage my engine?

also i forgot to mention i am using ngk iridium 7 eix two steps colder -- it ran fine for 10 or so months untill that one night. I just set the closed loop back on and the afr goes to 14.7 and when i stomp on it when closed loop hits same thing.... I have the wideband in the stock o2 housing spot and simulating the narrowband also but maybe the sensor has gone out on me? Thanks for the help dont mind my babble.

[seth98esT]

Could be a boost leak. I would at least check for boost leaks up to 15psi if not 20psi just to be sure.

[Stewi]

+1

I also have the LC1 and my instructions specifically stated to install it a good distance away from the turbo because too much heat can kill the sensor. Mine is back just after the flex section. I dont think the sensor is your issue tho. Im not that familiar with Emanage, but is it using the wideband signal to make corrections and adjust the fuel table? If it is then it COULD be the sensor, but again its a bit of a long shot.

What is your FPR set at without the vacuum line connected?

[Johnathansgalant]

good question ill have to get a gauge -- i have recently replaced it with dsm fpr from a 2g turbo just to test it and its doing the same thing.. ill retest for boost leaks again this weekend -- i dont have the wideband connected to the emanage but the ecu in my car is using it for its corrections in closed loop... another question -- i have an auto should i run my ecu with the evo ecu for the fuel and ignition maps? thanks again

[Stewi]

Im no good with that EVO ECU/Reflash/ROM stuff, check with Goosey or someone from club3g.

[Stewi]

Im no good with that EVO ECU/Reflash/ROM stuff, check with Goosey or someone from club3g.

[mtcavity1]

Did you reset the ECU (disconnecting power from battery for 10 minutes)? The ECU might be trying to run off of over-corrected "learned" settings from when the turbo was malfunctioning.

If you have any data-logs, let me look them over. Try and see if there are any liner changes to input/output of sensor feedback, in relation to the AFR pegging out. Sounds like some over-compensation/correction if it is repetitious.

I swapped out the factory MAF with a new factory until I get the GM MAF to work, and I can run WOT through 1st-2nd-3rd with no need to accelerate into 4th because I am doing 100 MPH, and holding an AFR of 9.8 to 10 except between shifts. Just mentioning this because it is ALL factory engine management with piggy-backs. I fried my factory MAF from removing the cover to probe the circuits for voltage referencing, then got water in the MAF after detailing the engine bay (do to the seal leaking somehow). :oops:

[Johnathansgalant]

oddly i reset the emanage to my base settings which were much leaner in the center and its holding 12.0 on wot.. I will mess with it till i get back to 11.5 area.. thanks for all the help - i will still get everything else checked for peace of mind..

[Stewi]

Nice.

Sounded like piggyback shananigans to me

[Johnathansgalant]

yea always something -- if the piggyback works the birds are chirping the sun is shining and the ladies are looking if not black smoke, cops, and a lot of laughing -- cant complain i was running a 2007 si neck and neck till what do u know, my i c pipe flew righ off.. i sat in the rain fixing it while the motor was nice and toasty to have a cop park on the other side and pull me over for a bad headlight -- atleast no racing ticket public svc msg dont race on public streets -- there was no one around and i just fixed the car i had to test it on someone