My High-Boost Engine Build - 6G72

**duh2150** · 10-22-2007, 12:06 PM

take the heads to a michine shop, they will flatten the head, clean in intake and exhuast ports make it looks brand new, if you got money they will do the valves and shit and make them new thast what im gonan do.

WarmAndSCSI · 10-22-2007, 12:33 PM

Originally Posted by duh2150

Take the heads to a machine shop, they will flatten the head, clean the intake and exhuast ports - make it look brand new; if you got money they will do the valves and "shit" and make them new. That's what I'm gonna do.

That's much better - yes, I know the machine shop can do this stuff. I think you meant a "valve job" by "do the valves and shit and make them new." This involves cleaning, grinding, polishing the valves and regrinding their seats.

Qs · 10-22-2007, 03:07 PM

just out of curiosity, how much hp & torque are u hoping to get???

**underated** · 10-22-2007, 03:09 PM

are you upgrading anything in the heads? i know cams are mad expensive for the 6g72 but it would be a nice compliment for the SC and the bottom end build... i cant wait to see what you put down with all these upgrades

oh yah what are you using for fuel management?

WarmAndSCSI · 10-22-2007, 03:20 PM

No upgrades to the heads yet - I can swap cams and valve springs in a few hours if I ever want to. They stock heads flow plenty for any sane amount of power.

I'm hoping to put down around 400 WHP at altitude (I live at 4400' in Utah). That's roughly 484 at sea level. BTW, maximum torque is a silly measurement - what matters is the placement of your powerband relative to your gearing. I want to make at least 300 WHP above 5500 RPM so when I shift at 7250 RPM, I fall back into a good amount of power.

I'm using an E-Manage Ultimate for fuel and timing control.

WarmAndSCSI · 10-22-2007, 03:22 PM

500th post

w00t

Actually I hit quote rather than edit :oops:

WarmAndSCSI · 10-22-2007, 06:55 PM

UPDATE: Received some new 40 over CP Pistons. Dropped them off at the machine shop. I've got some pics of my cleaned block, the new pistons, and another surprise.

The only block components left to receive are the various gaskets and freeze plugs.

I'm at work, but I'll post the pics as soon as I get home.

Thanks to boostzealot for the use of his camera to document this build! 8)

WarmAndSCSI · 10-22-2007, 09:14 PM

UPDATE: Forgot to mention that I dropped the heads off at Pro Machine to get milled. Their prices are pretty fair for their level of expertise and, besides, I want a perfect seal :)

PIC UPDATE:

This is a pretty big box... what could it be?

Some 22 mm wrist pins. Shiny.

And six of these! All too familiar since the remains of the stock-bore sized ones are in my current block. Stupid ring gap.

Another angle. Beautiful CP forged aluminum pistons. Also included were Sealed Power rings and some spiralocks for the wrist pins.

Nice and clean block at the machine shop. It probably needs to be painted black again. Or maybe orange :shock:

This was the best I could save this photo... Terrible lighting. But what you're seeing is one of my 3SX rods (left) compared to a Carrillo h-beam rod from a 1100 WHP 2JZ-GTE Supra (right). As you may already know, Carrillo rods are regarded as some of the best. This rod is clearly destroyed as you can see the bow circled in red. What's amazing is that the cheaper 3SX rod is MUCH better constructed. The guys at the machine shop pointed out that the beam walls are thicker, and wider! Imagine that. Thanks 3SX!

**boostzealot** · 10-22-2007, 11:07 PM

so sexy. man i cant wait for the first crank up.

**fatal1** · 10-22-2007, 11:37 PM

wow man you guys are both doing big things up there in utah cant wait to see it done, good luck

**boostzealot** · 10-22-2007, 11:42 PM

heres one of my goals for my build. next year for MOD i want to drive it all the way there and all the way back no problem, but the major idea of it all is to shut those evos down. how does that sound tim? next year we both compete in the dyno competition and post some of the highest numbers on pump gas, then knock another wall down by throwing c16 in the mix! :twisted: im shooting for 550whp.

**SkylineG1** · 10-22-2007, 11:50 PM

Originally Posted by boostzealot

heres one of my goals for my build. next year for MOD i want to drive it all the way there and all the way back no problem, but the major idea of it all is to shut those evos down. how does that sound tim? next year we both compete in the dyno competition and post some of the highest numbers on pump gas, then knock another wall down by throwing c16 in the mix! :twisted: im shooting for 550whp.

Hey if you guys are gonna do it on pump gas then use some of Utah's gas & not the crappy stuff from CA.

**underated** · 10-23-2007, 12:01 AM

im looking forward to the outcome of your build even while im doing mine haha just came out of the garage to see if you put up any new pics lol

WarmAndSCSI · 10-23-2007, 12:22 AM

Originally Posted by boostzealot

heres one of my goals for my build. next year for MOD i want to drive it all the way there and all the way back no problem, but the major idea of it all is to shut those evos down. how does that sound tim? next year we both compete in the dyno competition and post some of the highest numbers on pump gas, then knock another wall down by throwing c16 in the mix! :twisted: im shooting for 550whp.

Haha, 550 is no problem. I want to win the damn thing next year - 700 WHP here I come. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: These internals can do it :P

Originally Posted by SkylineG1

Hey if you guys are gonna do it on pump gas then use some of Utah's gas & not the crappy stuff from CA.

We have crappy 91 octane here too - high altitude allows for it. At least it's not oxygenated.

WarmAndSCSI · 10-23-2007, 12:45 AM

UPDATE: I decided to take care some of the dirty work. Pulled the front and rear main seals from the oil pump and rear housing respectively. This is a pain in the ass without the right tools, so invest in some seal/bearing drifts if you are to attempt this. I punched out the front main seal from behind through the oil pump. I'm sure it's easier when you're working on seals that haven't been sitting forever.

An empty rear main seal housing.

And another seal removed.

The culprits.

And the tools of the trade. Thank you cheap Checker tools. 8) And no, the Plastigage is not for removing seals.

**boostzealot** · 10-23-2007, 12:54 AM

it seems like checker and harbor freight ftw on this build. man so far checker has dominated with prices on anything we have need thus far. is the car behaving for you? im still waiting on my short shifter to get here from orlando

but i really cant wait to start doing this to my 74!

WarmAndSCSI · 10-23-2007, 01:12 AM

Originally Posted by boostzealot

so sexy. man i cant wait for the first crank up.

A little off topic, but that will be the most critical moment for this new engine.

It's really, really, really important to prime your engine before starting it the first time. The easiest way to do this is to crank the engine with the crank angle sensor unplugged until the oil light goes off - this is a pretty good indicator that you have built a good film of oil on all of the friction parts in the engine (piston skirts, bearings, etc.). Then, and only then, should you start the engine for the first time by plugging the CAS back in.

Let the engine come up to operating temperature. Check for leaks and check your oil pressure. Once the engine is warm, get ready for some hard pulls. The thing to keep in mind is not to let the engine stay at any particular RPM for too long.

Start by accelerating normally - shifting at 3k RPM at half throttle. Do NOT pussyfoot this new engine. Let the car slow itself down by keeping the clutch out during deceleration. Make sure to do a LOT of engine braking during your first drive; it helps remove the excess material from the cylinder walls. After that one moderate pull, try to do the same 2 more times. Then, go through 2nd or 3rd at 75% throttle up until 4000-5000 RPM. Let the engine brake the car again. Again, try to do this two more times. Finally, do three full throttle pulls from 2000 to redline.

This will get your rings about 80% sealed - the next 20% will take a few hundred miles. However, make sure to drain your oil after the first 20 miles and refill with conventional non-synthetic for the first 1500 miles.

I learned most of this from http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm.

WarmAndSCSI · 10-23-2007, 01:15 AM

Originally Posted by boostzealot

it seems like checker and harbor freight ftw on this build. man so far checker has dominated with prices on anything we have need thus far. is the car behaving for you? im still waiting on my short shifter to get here from orlando

but i really cant wait to start doing this to my 74!

Yah, your car is so much smoother than mine. It stlll needs some hardcore tuning, though. Since I have it for a week, I'll see what kind of magic I can work on your fuel trims.

**underated** · 10-23-2007, 01:33 AM

i always prime the engines i build by using a drill with a socket on the oil pump sprocket without the timing belt on right before it goes in the car you'll know its good when you see oil come out of the lifters

:smt023 for doing all the work yourself

WarmAndSCSI · 10-23-2007, 01:40 AM

Originally Posted by underated

i always prime the engines i build by using a drill with a socket on the oil pump sprocket without the timing belt on right before it goes in the car you'll know its good when you see oil come out of the lifters

I wonder how long that oil film lasts. I'll probably do that and then crank it until the oil light goes off too.

Originally Posted by underated

:smt023 for doing all the work yourself

Thanks, I try to learn as much as I can by doing... I don't own any machine shop equipment yet though... someday.