My High-Boost Engine Build - 6G72

**underated** · 10-26-2007, 02:31 PM

damn looking good so far and its moving along quickly too i'm still waiting on my gaskets and seals from mitsubishi :evil:

WarmAndSCSI · 10-26-2007, 03:06 PM

Originally Posted by underated

damn looking good so far and its moving along quickly too i'm still waiting on my gaskets and seals from mitsubishi :evil:

I waited on Mitsubishi last time. This time I'm just using Fel-Pro gaskets; supposedly their PermaTorqueMLS head gaskets are the shit.

**Boss254** · 10-26-2007, 06:10 PM

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

UPDATE: Remember kids, a good machine shop needs your flywheel and crankshaft pulley to do an engine balance. Lucky for me, the 6G72 is internally balanced so I only had to give them one of the components so they could use it for the balancing (has something to do with mounting a component of the reflective balancing system). Taking that flywheel off would have been a pain.

Total price for machine work: $865. That includes all the block, crankshaft, and head work I'm getting done. V6's are expensive :shock:

I'm glad you posted that up. Now I know I'll have to buy the fidanza before hand.

That $865 is cheap compared to what some of these places down here in Texas are charging.[/quote]

WarmAndSCSI · 10-26-2007, 11:56 PM

UPDATE: Got almost everything pulled from the engine. Coolant lines, oil lines, axles, engine mount, front roll stop and cross member, plenum, alternator, A/C compressor, etc.

As promised, here are some pictures of the piston installation process:

Remember this guy?

Install half of the rod bearing into the rod big end and lube it up (I'm using Clevite Bearing Assembly Lube).

This is where the piston/rod is going. Cylinder #2

Drop the piston/rod in the cylinder and install the ring compressor. Tighten until rings are compressed.

Press down on the ring compressor (not shown), and tap the piston into the block using a wooden handle.

It's in :D

Align the rod big end with the rod journal on the crankshaft.

Install the other half of the rod bearing into the rod cap and lube it up.

Apply anti-seize lubricant to the rod bolts.

Install the rod bolts.

Tighten the rod bolts to 45 ft-lb (this torque value is only for ARP rod bolts, not OEM Mitsubishi nuts; which are 38 ft-lb IIRC).

All done!

And that was the last one! 8)

**boostzealot** · 10-27-2007, 01:06 AM

man after seeing this thing tonight i just cant wait until december (thats when my build starts folks). see you in the morning, lets take our time to make sure everything goes back together the right way and perfectly. see you tomorrow man.

**Boss254** · 10-27-2007, 02:10 AM

Man that is lookin too sweet. I can't wait to get mine's to this point.

**duh2150** · 10-27-2007, 08:12 AM

paint the block already! lol

WarmAndSCSI · 10-27-2007, 09:18 AM

Originally Posted by duh2150

paint the block already! lol

That would be easy if there weren't 10000000 sealing surfaces I needed to protect. I didn't pay the machine shop to clean/deck this block for nothing.

**duh2150** · 10-27-2007, 03:47 PM

throw some duct tape over it in some spots and then degrease it and presure wash and then do that again, and it should be shiney, and then hit it with some paint, make it look prurtty

**lonestar22** · 10-27-2007, 04:05 PM

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

Originally Posted by duh2150

paint the block already! lol

That would be easy if there weren't 10000000 sealing surfaces I needed to protect. I didn't pay the machine shop to clean/deck this block for nothing.

why would he paint the block? that would be uber ghey

function over form

**underated** · 10-27-2007, 05:44 PM

sorry to jack your thread man

But damn i guess call me ghey then... but its ok i'll be ghey with my fully built black block that took all of 20mins to paint lol

function + form > *

Continue with the badass v6 build

**mtcavity1** · 10-27-2007, 08:21 PM

Very nice work! :smt023 I could not even imagine the output of the engine/superchager after you compleate the re-build.

Thanks for all the photos also, I've been checking it out often! :D

**duh2150** · 10-28-2007, 11:00 AM

painting the block makes everything easyer to clean later, cleaner the better, you dotn want a bad ass engine running liek shit becasue oil and shit flying off the engine int othe intake and crap.

id paint it.. just my opinion, id do it while i could.

**xd_01** · 10-28-2007, 07:59 PM

Originally Posted by lonestar22

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

Originally Posted by duh2150

paint the block already! lol

That would be easy if there weren't 10000000 sealing surfaces I needed to protect. I didn't pay the machine shop to clean/deck this block for nothing.

why would he paint the block? that would be uber ghey

function over form

maybe so it wont rust?

**underated** · 10-28-2007, 09:55 PM

^^^ thats why i painted mine

**duh2150** · 10-29-2007, 12:06 AM

the block would be fine, its the clean part its really about way easr to get off, im gonan stop posting in this bad ass thread, i feel like im puting him down or somthing,... i donno, keep up the good work.