8G 4g64 swap to 4g63t + evoturbo How to *incomplete* (PICS!)

[Qs]

ny/canada border is about 3 hrs drive from where im at

[Galante]

how's it coming along?

[Qs]

clutch and flywheel are installed, was gonna put in tranny but im missing the damn plate that goes between the engine and the tranny , the one that the starter goes through

anyways the rest of the manual swap is done , so its only a matter of days ,

i already sent the intake manni to be welded in an angle for the starter clearance

[Qs]

important note


if ur swapping the entire engine and accessories , and u are getting the evo ps pump , u will need the power steering main hose

dealer is 350 but u can get an adapter custom made for cheaper

here is mine



hose is raised a bit besides that , peachy

[nyjets985]

so this still aint done yet ???

[Qs]

i need help with the immobilizer

is there a way to override it or do i need to get the evo ecu flashed ?

[ZigenScarface]

post some pics of what youve done so far

[Stewi]

i need help with the immobilizer

is there a way to override it or do i need to get the evo ecu flashed ?

you need to get it flashed. You send me on overage of 10 pm's a week asking me questions about things like this, I give you the correct answer, but it's not the quickest/easiest/cheapest answer, so you post up here hoping someone else will tell you what you want to here. Im not trying to be malicious or rude, but you obviously have been asking me for help because I know what im doing, so when I tell you 100% you need to have it flashed with the correct immobilizer, it needs to be done, there is no cheap/easy "short out this wire to that wire" work around.

[Cali]

you need to get it flashed. You send me on overage of 10 pm's a week asking me questions about things like this, I give you the correct answer, but it's not the quickest/easiest/cheapest answer, so you post up here hoping someone else will tell you what you want to here. Im not trying to be malicious or rude, but you obviously have been asking me for help because I know what im doing, so when I tell you 100% you need to have it flashed with the correct immobilizer, it needs to be done, there is no cheap/easy "short out this wire to that wire" work around.

x2.

[Qs]

ya i know i posted this at the same time i asked you by pm

its because i want the thread to include the questions ive been asking you so it makes it more precise .

theres was also a delay caus i didnt want to buy the 1.3u cable from new zealand ( which in the end i had to do )

its not about it being cheap it was a time issue

anyway i got the tactrix cable yesterday so im gonna do it tomorrow

thx for ur help again guys

besides whats wrong including he same posts if the subject is the same but in a different community . if the reader already read it he can just close it or move on to the next post lol

[Qs]

alright i read from the ecu but it didnt work


the data link cable from the evo is pin 62 orange wire goes with galant pin 85 LIGHT GREEN wire

the second data link cable goes from evo pin 79 green white wire to galant pin 113 blue green wire

[Qs]

turns out i had to rewire 2 wires at the galantobd2 port


the first one should be red and black 12v , but the only wire emiting any voltage on the galant port is the yellow black one , it can remain plugged into the tactrix, but a 12v constant power is needed on that red and black one

also the last wire which is a red white wire , that needs to go to pin 50 on the evo ecu .i used the stock usdm evo 8 ecu and it DID NOT have any wires in pin # 59


darkmitsu which helped me a lot ( thx m8 ! ) has the same setup as me but DID have a wire at evo 8 ecu pin # 59 .

anyways

with the ecu pinout i mentionned earlier and these mods at the obd2 port , the ecuflash software is reading the ecu like a charm


. i then deleted the immobilizer , rear 02 sensor and knock sensor
with code 5650 at periphery 0 with the hex fonction d=0x5650

like mentionned on topics regarding ecuflash

after adding the periphery lines <table name =..........ect >

i started the car and it ran just fine ....for 5 min then it stalled

i retested every thing and found no malfunction . i then deleted the solenoids with periphery 2, 3, 4

car still didnt start

on the interior fuse box . fuse # 20 had popped ( stock is a 10 amp ) so i replaced it and the car started and stopped after 5 min , the fuse had blown again


i tried a 15 amp fuse, doesnt pop and i took it out after 20 min drive at it was barely hot


its probably a bad ground or a surge

anyway the car is running fine now


im gonna try and post some pics and im gonna fix this walkthrough

[Qs]

done !!!! good news,

bad news ... i had found a bigger place for my garage and i could only afford it huge rent because we were 2 company under one roof .

well guess what

the owner of the other company just walked away from a 2 year leash after just 3 months!

....

ffs...

[rez887]

done !!!!

after 3 years, I remember your incomplete ride from the time that I bought your 02-03 taillights on ebay!

[Qs]

lol rez , ur talking about my old galant the 02 one which i swapped to manual

this 03 G i bought in sept 07 and began the evo swap on nov 08

1 year it took me , not 3 lol

[mrg7243]

I have a few questions with the swap, Range of diffuculty, Hardest part, Did the motor bolt into existing mounts, did the ECU work with the stock stock wring harness besides changing pins.

[Qs]

@ mrg7243 the 4g63t has the same mounting points as the 4g64 , 3 of the 4 engine mounts are on the tranny ( 1 on the driver side, front and left are on crossmember ) and the other one, the passenger side one. is in 2 parts, 1 of the part is bolted on the engine and goes underneath/through the timing belt, so do not remove that one . u need to unscrew the 2 parts holding the engine mount together so that u end up with 1 part on the engine and 1 part on the frame. U will need the evo engine mount part that goes on the frame , as the galant mount part will NOT fit with the evo engine mount part . Also it is VERY important to use high quality/durability nuts ( grade 11 ) or higher otherwise they will bend or break and the engine will drop a few inches/centimeter thus making ur clutch/bellhousing not work properly or even worse , break .

As for the ECU u cannot use the galant ones , u need the evo ones but u can use the rest the of galant engine harness . You also need the 4 evo injector wires too . The info on that is already in the thread....i think lol

[Qs]

and this is it chaps . ( not you grammar police , no one likes u!) lol

the evo engine swap . this part list. how to info is for a 2003 evolution 8 usdm engine in a 2003 canadian galant alongside a 2001 eclipse manual transmission.if you are confused about the years then i suggest you read a bit more info on it.

pics on

http://s221.photobucket.com/user/theeqs/slideshow/

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=a940643c59

parts required

-evo engine

and voila !.....

ok after looking at it for several days and closing your jaw shut . make sure you have


-an entire front clip would not be exagerated if you can get a good deal on it , the evo transmission you do not need unless you intend to swap AWD , it seems theres a few members who did it while i was away ( btw whats up with the new site/format ??? )
but the evo tranny is about 3000-5000 $ well back in 2007 anyway lol maybe its cheaper nowadays anyway this thread is not for a evo engine AWD swap , no only FWD for now . BTW on that topic, do not mod the engine with the intention to gain performance, i installed a bit of it, and tweaked the engine and got it a bit too high ( just by adding the k/n typhoon, custom exhaust , remapping, turbosmart BoV, stage 4 6 puck bully clutch ,all in a FWD and 300+bhp is kinda not fun for city driving. clutch is hard so when the idle is too low u will stall, but starting at 1300 rpm, you cant look like your starting a race at every corner....
anyway so all oem evo parts are good enough for a fwd g. but be my guess if u want to mod it up . Pauls evo was up to 1000 i think last i checked.


highly suggested to get a suspension and brake upgrades , brembo evo brakes and rotors fit on the 8g so its the best solution imo.
the evo engine harness is not required as you can use the g one just fine.
if you keep the G harness you will need to rewire the ecu with the proper pins # as seen in the pics
if you take the evo harness and install it , everything under the hood with connect perfectly but underneath the drivers console, not 1 will be the same, so a few diff harness will need rewiring ( i do not have the wire colors and application for those)


( --------------------------REMOVAL PROCESS------------------------------------- )

everything! except the engine galant harness.

everything has to go if you arent already manual converted , if you are then you can leave the master, shifter cables and interior alone ,as all the swap is under the hood info and ecu re-pinning, u can keep the galant axle for the evo engine ,

you should end up with an empty engine bay as shown in the pics.




(installation)

unscrew the 2 parts of the galant AND the evo passenger side engine mount

- with the top part of the G mount, u bolt the LOWER part of the evo passenger engine mount. 1 hole will have to be widened. DO NOT uSE smaller diameter bolts as they will bend or break

-now you can bolt the evo engine with the manual tranny and install the 4 engine mounts ( with crossmember)

-install the starter using 1/8 washers between them ( i purchased a eclipse started from a 97 turbo versionned as the solenoid is much bigger as seen in the pics)
- Now because of the turbo manifold goes straight down to the turbo housing And because the evo had its started a lot lower on the tranny, you will find that it will not fit. this is where the second turbo manifold and second flange come into play
- you need to lenghten your turbo manifold just enough to get clearance for the starter. as you can see from the pics, i started with an oem sheet gasket , then used the g exhaust flange as a spacer, then another oem sheet gasket , then i had to cut the oem turbo manifold at the end of each cyclinder tubes as seen on the pics, i then had the end of each welded INSiDE the tubular manifold . This was the most costly custom work, overall parts and work charged comes about 700 .
- install the turbo housing and turbo to make sure you have enough to clear the starter.
-install the intercooler piping at the intake manifold
-install the BOV
-install the air intake
install make sure to connect all the oil lines clearance will become an issue for a few of them.
-reconnect transmission components ( clutch, line , cables. ect)
- reinstall radiator, and install 1 or 2 fan if u can ,( see pics)
install the rest of the intercooler piping
-install oil cooler and oil cooler hoses.
- install intecooler ( you will need to relocate the powersteering fluid cooler which are the 2 smal bars behind the bumper
- install downpipe ( the oem evo downpipe will not bolt-on to the G exhaust line , so eithe you cut the galant exhaust ( NOT recommended as the diameter of the exhaust will shorten ) i went with a custom made 3 inch exhaust and muffler.

[Qs]

will finish this one soon

[Qs]

ok so heres some troubleshooting :


engine lights , console display, heating system , ac and blower, everything is working like a charm, as soon as you put the key into the ignition and turn the car to start, everything electrical signal is dies out, the engine does not crank, the starter does not tick . the fuel pump cannot be heard , so i think the immobilizer reseted itself, which happened once , ? i cant seem to find a short anywhere and everything is plugged and in order im gonna try and see if i can connect the ecu tomorrow with a pc


got a new multi meter today, tested the battery, 12v
tested inside fuse box 12v on the screw besides the fuse.
i tested pin 12 and 25 of the evo ecu which is supposed to be 12v but it gave me a reading of 0... but when i connect pin 12 and 25 to a ground my car door light turns on and so does the hand brake light and battery light( if there is no fuse in slot # 20)



i checked the fuse box and the junction block for rust or some of the green corosive stuff and didnt find any , the contact were clean and still shiny

there was on the other hand a HUGE ball of spider cobweb, so much and compact that u could feel the lid tearing through it. i checked the connections after cleaning it and they were ok .

the junction block has no sign of corroded contact inside and outside