If the balance shaft is off(either the front or rear/oil sprocket), the car will start, just will vibrate like mad. The only thing required to be correct is the crank and cam gear timing.
Take off the timing cover and triple check all the timing marks. If the oil pump sprocket or the front balance shaft marks are off, take off the belts and correct them. I would take off the belts anyway to be sure the oil pump sprocket is correctly in time, shouldnt take that long at all.
My car spun a balance shaft bearing once before. It was the front balance shaft and the middle bearing. The other two bearings were fine, but the middle one spun out and was just riding on the balance shaft. THe only thing it did was make a weird "tinging" noise at certain revs, the car started just fine and drove ok. I replaced the bearing with a blockoff bearing and removed both balance shafts. To this day the car is fine, this hapenned almost two years ago.
And both front/rear balance shafts wont weigh more then 8-10lbs combined, they arent THAT heavy, but its still a descent amount of weight.
7g for life!
hrmm, any idea of why it would be backfiring then ? cause it is definatly acting like its not on time. hehe or it was. Seems like its having a hard time making it past that first turnover, There is no noise or nothing coming from the motor, it just bogs way down, like Errrrr. and kinda backfires. Im calling Mitsubishi, to see what they think
This was my thought on the issue. You've got something else wrong, man. Your compression numbers point somewhere else than valve timing.Originally Posted by seth98esT
she siad she has actually heard of and dealt with this before. she is going to talk to her Tech, hehe, I love mitsubishi :) great customer service, i just want an experts oponion, then between him and my friend kevin, ill get this figured out. no more turbo rob, lol.
She said it should Start but would run rought, but its backfiring, and not wanting to turn over that second time, im on hold
The crank and the cam gear have always been on time, they didnt slip, so the oilsprocket must have been put on wrong in the begining.
hrmm, Well im kinda stuck then, if it should fire, with fuel + spark, and cam and the crank on time. i have compression.
somereason its sputtering and backfiring. Maybe i just need to replace that whole sensor. i think the actual sensor unit would be fine thought, i mean, it was barely scrached at all, the corner has a tiny tiny tiny piece scrached out, not even half the thickness of a dime, and thats about how wide it is, then there is like about the thickness of a quarter in barely even surface scratches right around that, ill remove it tonight and take a picture, ill wait and see what kevin says.
Like I said before, triple check the timing, once you do that, do another compression check just to be sure. Maybe you have a stuck open injector? Maybe try disconnecting on injector, try to start, if it does the same thing, reconnect that injector, then disconnect the next injector, and repeat.
Backfiring while trying to start sounds like too much fuel igniting, which could be a stuck open injector or a plug thats not consistently firing?
7g for life!
ay other possibilties ? i dont know how i can adjust the ammount of fuel it puts off... I did soak out my fuel injectors with carb cleaner, but i let them out to dry for a week before putting them back in... i replaced the little O rings... i may have over tourqed the fuel rail specs ? would that cause this ? over tightning of the fuel rail ?
Also, dont know if its a huge deal, i couldnt find the tighting sequence for the rocker arms, so i just started in the center and worked in a clock wise way, tighting outward. then slowly tourqued them down to spec.
That scratched cam angle sensor could be causing all of this - replace it.
Remember, the cam angle and crank angle sensors control the ignition through the PCM. Any one of those malfunctioning could cause a weak or intermittent spark.
Here are aftermarket part numbers for the Cam Position Sensor:
Niehoff SN2023
Standard Motor PC171
GP Sorensen CSS171
All under $70
one of the plugs does appear a tiny tiny less burnt than the others, Dont mean to sound like a broken record, But the Car ran Tits for a good 30 seconds, after the first 5 seconds it was kinda chugging getting started. But first turn over, it was great. barely turned it. it slowly started on its own, didnt give it any gas, it ran for 30 seconds then CLACK. That camshaft sensor cylinder hit the camshaft sensor's housing. killed the motor, Then it just started and ran for a few seconds, and died, then did the same things a couple more times, then it went CLACK the 3rd time, wouldnt stay running more than 5-10 seconds, just kinda fadded away and died on its own.
The balancing shafts were perfectly fine, the car was in great working order, just had a leaky head gasket. and did my valves at the same time, but that all held fluid and everything. pressure checked out ok, head was not warped or anything. machinist said it did not need resurfacing .
Damn, i dont have the money for it right now, damn....
its gotta be, because thats the only thing that could fuck with the timing right ? the camshaft angle sensor, or the camshaft sensor, what ever people wanna call it, it seems it has a few names.
if i got a new sensor, do you think that it would work ? without replacing the cylinder ? i had the cylinder machined, and it rolls across the table, i belive all the camshaft angle sensor does is read the breaks in the cylinder and report it back to the computer, adjusting everything every Revolution
It's just a Cam(shaft) Position/Angle Sensor. You went into this without a spare $100? Bad idea when none of it was necessary to begin with.
That cylinder has to be perfect - it completely controls when your ignition and injectors are going to fire.
Dude, if I had some spare cash I could come up there and fix your car, but I'm broke. Plus I'm in the middle of installing new pistons and helping a friend put his new EJ25 back together.
Here is the cheapest solution: buy a 4G64 head from a junk yard and get the sensor and cylinder off it.
I saw you asking for this stuff in the FS forum... and overnight shipping? You do realize it's a lot cheaper for your auto part store to order the sensor overnight. They won't even charge you for the extra shipping. Same with the dealer for the cylinder if you tell them your story.
edit:
1999
Head(Cylinder)
Mitsubishi Galant 2.4L 5208B $200 B and K Auto Salvage USA-OR(La-Grande) E-mail 1-800-233-9640
If you want this stuff now, get the head from there. Otherwise, be patient.
Another thing, did you remove the cam caps at all? Ive read that if you remove the cam caps an ddont put them back in the same order, it can cause the camshaft to have a hard time rotating. Maybe not so much if you dont put them back in order, as if you use cam caps from a different head.
The Crank/cam angle sensor is the same sensor on the SOHC right? Then it does control both spark fire and injector fire.
7g for life!
i did have 150 $ extra, but that kinda went ya, lol. Anyways :) i get paid friday, i found the sensor at my parts store, im having it over nighted. I dont think that the cam sending cylinder is messed up any more, i should be good to go if i get this new sensor, will be in tomarrow mornng at 9 am, for 60.00 :) Where do you live at warm and SCSI ? just outta curiousity :) That is nice of you bro, i should have it all good to go after my friend kevin swings by tonight :) he is the pro, took him 2 mins to tell me the crank angle sensor was bad. or something was wron with that , cause my cam was backin up, and yea. he nailed it, the sensor was toast, waiting for a replacement, he will be buy to set my timing tonight.
Yes, order the sensor. That's cheaper than anybody else can get it for you by tomorrow.
i The shaft is a difrent sotry, its cheap but, i have to drive to medford to pay the money to order it. Then would have to go back to get it, my dad was over there yesterday. But wouldnt stop for me lol, right now im in a mini van, and its a pain to get to medfrod and back, i will hve money and what not friday, so if it still dont work with the new sensor and kevins help, buy tomarrow, than it is for sure that cylinder thinggy.. Also no, the Cam caps were left in tact, there was 0 wear, and no need to replace.
Make sure you tell the dealership to overnight it - they probably get a box of parts every day and they'll just throw your part in when it leaves Cypress, CA. It shouldn't cost you but an extra $5 if not free to get it the next day. Try calling them, maybe?
Posting Rules
Log in
Register
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks