She is Alive !

[underated]

i'll check on the shipping but i know its gonna be through the roof i'm not gonna ask for anything for them it would just be straight shipping

this all reminds me of when i let my coworker install my nitrous kit... well start to install my kit he got as far as drilling the holes for the bottle bracket... he got 2 done then on the next one he drilled through my brake lines :evil: i almost killed him my friends had to pull me off of him. that was when i first got my car and he had a kit on his 5.0. sinc that day i have never let anybody else touch my car sept for the girls i let wash it sometimes hahaha

[WarmAndSCSI]

Man, I'm telling you. If you have good compression (150+) it's NOT bad valves. Get a leak down test to make sure.

I'm really thinking this it timing. Check your timing cog on the crank. It could have worn at the pin and advanced timing - I've seen it on one of my own.

[Eclipse97526]

yea, well i know i could do this buy myself, its not that hard, and i got it all down pat. I mean, it is my first time learning, but everything i did, i got great compliments on .

Where are you located at ? I have a mini van, i may be able to drive down, but gas is horrible in that thing. I would wanna make sure that is my problem before i go threw all of that work. i would hate to swap my head and have the same problems. Is it possible its like a vaccume line or something that andfrew hooked up ? everything looks like its all on the right way... But i cant find any diagrams for the back of the intake manifold there...

[Eclipse97526]

ok ill go check my timing, i have all my covers on and shit, ill hafta wait till morning, im sure its on thought, it was on the last 3 times i set it, and it ran the same, once with the old setup modified, Then with a new cam sensor, then i took that back, and got everything new, the housing sensor, the camshaft reluctor. And it runs EXACTLY the same, besides now, it stays running. till it gets to hot it seems. But any gas and it chokes. Ill come home, check the timing.... Im sure its on thought, Not hitting any valves or anything, it seems like its EGR Related, or something. and when i compression checked it, its DEFINATLY getting lots of fuel, I will run my diagnoss's again, This could take some time ill try to get back to you all tomarrow with compression specs and spark specs, i dont have much else i can do.... wait for my friends ECU reader ? he will have a snap on 2500 on thurs. that will tell me anything and everything possible that any mechanic could diagnoss's its got O2 reading fuel mixture readouts and everything. We will seee.


would my compression still be good if i had a bad head gasket ?

[Eclipse97526]

Well i just found out, my battery backup to my stereo has been connected this whole time. So there has always been a current running threw my car. I hope my ECU is ok, im going to try to discconnect these, let it reset, and give it a shot, See if that helps at all, if not, The only thing i can do is either pay a mechanic to diagnoss this. Or i can wait for my friends machine that will do the exact same thing, prolly more, than what mechanics around here are equipped with. and do a full diagnossis. The Snap-On 2500 shoes everything, its a ODB II that reads everything, inculuding air to fuel mixture. And everything, So if there is a problem, that will show us whats up. Just thought id post an update here. Im prepared to pay a mechanic to go over it. Im betting its either a wacked out ECU . or a vaccum line on in the wrong spot, or something, Could someone take a few Picutres of there EGR ? and thermostat, and back in that area, ( behind the engine ) i wanna compare my engine to that of one thats working correctly, it just seems like maybe there is a line hooked up backwards, like an inlet to the EGR, thats going in the outlet, or something. something is backwards. Or not hooked up right. Period.

My car is perfectly timed. Its recieving Lots of fuel ( I dont know how to check each injector, But I smell Lots of V power while compression checking. Compression is checking out at 170 + on 3 cylinders still, and 150 on #3. There is definatly spark as well, all plugs are evenly burnt, and definatly igniting, it has to be a wrong hose somewhere, could someone take alot of pictures for me to compare ? :) id appreachiate it LOTs and LOTS .

[WarmAndSCSI]

You keep on insisting your timing is correct but yet you still can't get the car to run. A vacuum leak or emissions control problem is NOT going to make your car unable to rev with no load. Take it a mechanic.

Looking at your spark plugs isn't going to tell you a single thing unless they have a lot of miles on them or are completely oil fouled. Check for collapsed lifters, anything else out of the ordinary. Take the valve cover off and watch the car run - you will be able to see if any valves aren't opening completely. You seized the valve train while the car was running. You expect nothing to be broken?

[bronxbombr]

Bronxbombr looks at this thread again and lets out a big sigh.....(third person).
Dude how much you wanna sell me your car for? :|

[Eclipse97526]

Do you think the IAC Motor could be bad ? Cause i cleaned the shit out of it, and i didnt know i was supposed to watch out for the IAC motor, ( on the throttle body ) Maybe it just got hashed from to much carb clener, and it was really dirty, i bet all kindsa shit got in there.

I pulled the valve cover off, after it had died, There was no rocker play at all, they were all tight onto the valves. Does that mean anything ? I didnt try running my car without the valve cover on, im going to try reseting my ECU . And then if it dont run, Well, Ill just hafta wait till i can find someone that knows what there doing to look at it. Im not going to keep running her while shes acting like this.

[Eclipse97526]

ok i will go pop off my tire, and jack my car up, and take pictures this time, just to show you that the crank and the cam are on time, And i assure you, the balancing shafts are on time as well. I have done it 3 times now. Only problem i had, was setting the tensioner correctly,

They claim that there you should be able to re-insert the pin into the tensioner, And this cannot be done, i cannot seem to close the gap on the Tensoner assembly. Maybe i am setting my timing wrong, But All of the marks line up perfectly. Only thing is that tensoer is sticking out, i compressed it, But i didnt have the tool to do the tensioner correctly, i wouldnt think it would matter much if all the timing marks lined up.

[WarmAndSCSI]

ok i will go pop off my tire, and jack my car up, and take pictures this time, just to show you that the crank and the cam are on time, And i assure you, the balancing shafts are on time as well. I have done it 3 times now. Only problem i had, was setting the tensioner correctly,

They claim that there you should be able to re-insert the pin into the tensioner, And this cannot be done, i cannot seem to close the gap on the Tensoner assembly. Maybe i am setting my timing wrong, But All of the marks line up perfectly. Only thing is that tensoer is sticking out, i compressed it, But i didnt have the tool to do the tensioner correctly, i wouldnt think it would matter much if all the timing marks lined up.

So you're saying you don't have the correct tension on the belt? Pull the tensioner, compress the pushrod in a vice, stick a pin through the pushrod and body. Use a torque wrench and special Mitsu tool to set the tension at the tensioner pulley arm, and tighten the center bolt. Rotate the crank twice and check the timing marks again. The pin should be able to removed without resistance. If so, pull it out and check again in 5 minutes to make sure it cannot be reinserted.

That's how it is on the V6, and I'm sure it's similar on the I4. Incorrect tension on the timing belt will throw your timing off greatly.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Rocker play doesn't mean anything - it's whether or not the valves are all at full lift when they should be. Compare each set of intake valves with each other and each set of exhaust valves. They should all be depressing the same amount. It's easy to see if there's a collapsed lifter if you see a valve not opening completely.

The ECU working parameters will NOT cause your car to not be able to rev, nor will the IAC. The IAC is an IDLE air controller, not a revving air controller.

[Eclipse97526]

So if that tensioner is not set correctly ? it will run like this ? cause the timing marks are still on, but i didnt have the speical tensioning tool, and when i pulled the pin out of the tensioner, it went out quite abit, prolly cause i didnt have that little tool that you need... Would that make my car run like this ? even if i rotated everything, and it all stayed on time... And the belts not loose or anything.

[Eclipse97526]

i hear no knocking or ticking, i have checked the compression, just recently, was still 150 + so i didnt loose any valves. i have not checked them running ( by eye to see if any are bent )

I never started my car with the valve cover off, even when i first got the car, it nearly died just taking the oil cap off.

Would it be that crutial to set the tensioner arm on the tensioner, and have 0 Resistance ? ( with the pin i mean )

[WarmAndSCSI]

http://www.fast-4ward.com/3GsvcManual/11A.pdf

Please tell me you followed the exact procedure in there for timing belt, especially the setting the tension part.

[WarmAndSCSI]

The car will die unless you plug the vacuum lines running to the valve cover. Common sense, right?

It doesn't matter whether your incorrectly tensioned timing belt is causing the timing to shift. It's still done wrong and your tensioner will fail prematurely.

[Eclipse97526]

man i really appreachiate your help. well i just realized my motor mounts were put in the wrong way, my arrow goes up, not towards the motor, fuckin rob, lol

I did it exactly like that, besides i didnt have the tensioner tool, and the tourque wrench i have dont fit inbetween the tensioner bolt, ( on the tensioner arm ) and the fire wall.

When i pull the pin out, it goes out, EXACTLY 6 MM And then comes in contact with the tensioner arm.

[WarmAndSCSI]

I ask again, why are you trying to skimp on this repair? Why didn't you order the special tool for $20 beforehand? 3SX.com has had them forever and a simple search would have told you that.

Your compression points somewhere other than bad valve timing, though. I'm still firm on my opinion that you need to retension that belt unless you want to jump timing and bend some valves.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Those are the pads on the sides of the motor mounts right? Why are you concerned with the arrows on the padding of your motor mounts? YOUR ENGINE ISN'T EVEN WORKING YET.

[Eclipse97526]

Wow, i wish i had this manual, i need to go over everything i recon, This could take a while, i might as well start buy pullin some shit apart.. I could always let my eci reset, and go in and do my timing properly. And see if that works, Because my car was not throwing off any more check engine lights after i replaced that Camshaft sensor,

One thing i was concerned with, Was the camshaft Reluctor i got, had Smaller Metal thinggys on it, ( that the camshaft posionstion sensor reads from ) And i guess the orginal part number was Suppressed. So im not sure if maybe thats whats going on, if my ECU is used to the old Reluctor, Not to the New " revised " reluctor, Im not sure how compatable these things would be, but it almost seems that sensor has everything to do with timing. And i would think, that if all my timing marks were on, or not, Reguardless of the tension. If they stayed on there marks, and the belt was set right, Technicly, Wouldnt everything sync up and run properly ?

[Eclipse97526]

i know, i dont really care about the mounts, i just noticed another one of robs mistakes. I will try re-tensioning the belt. maybe autozone has the tool. I didnt even know about the tool, in a walkthrough i read on here, he mentioned using allen wrenches...

https://thegalantcenter.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=42230