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  1. #21
    TGC Regular djflex167's Avatar
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    either the JL Audio Subwoofer models W3, W6 and W7 would kick some a$$ when it comes to bass!! not to mention Kicker L7's and L5's are also great!!

  2. #22
    i have one 12 inch l7 thats also 2 ohms. get teh kx850.2 or the zx850.2. bridge whichever one you get and ull be good. but if you really want a lil bit more then go for teh monoblocked 1000 watt kicker. u shouldnt mix subs with amps like get teh same brand subs as amp.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by galantgtz36
    Quote Originally Posted by cutthrote
    I would get an amp that puts out ~1000W @ 1 ohm since you have the DVC 2 ohm model. This will give your amp more headroom as you can always set the amps gain to match the wattage your seeking and you wouldn't have to push the amp to its full potential. This also leaves you more wattage in case you plan to upgrade your subwoofer(s) in the future. The 750W kicker amp would be perfectly fine though since their amps are underrated. My kx1200.1 actually puts outs ~1400W @ 1ohm according to the birthsheet. I have that amp pushing my 500W type R which is seeing ~900W. I wouldn't recommend getting an amp drastically larger than 1000W @ 1ohm unless you have or plan on getting a H.O. alternator....they cost more anyway!
    oh yeah about that, my headlights and interior lights blink when my system is up. does this mean i need a H.O alternator, or a better capacitor cuz now i only have the cheap schosche 500k cap. im thinkin about gettin the tsunami 2 farad or atleast 1.2. my friend told me when i get my hid lights they wont blink but i jus wanna know if my battery and alternator are gonna die out . thanx bro
    If your headlights/interior lights are dimming, it is an indication that your drawing more current than your charging system (alternator) can supply. Factory alternators are designed to supply only enough current for the factory equipped power accessories on your car and dont leave enough headroom for additional power accessories (aftermarket electronics). It could also be that your amp gain is not set correctly, which will definitely cause dimming due to the effects of clipping. Capacitors and additional batteries help relieve this demand for current but they have their place depending on the situation. In the long run, the "full-proof" way to remedy this is to upgrade your alternator to one that supplys efficient amps for your demands. This is a hard topic to explain in a paragraph and I would recommend online reading if it is a serious issue to you (which it should be. Check out www.bcae1.com)....Based on th amp you have, I would almost guarentee it is your gain settings though....There are a few tutorials online on how to adequately set your gain (i.e. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_a...php?page_id=30) and how to calculate current draw from your amps. Ive seen a lot of people treat there gain as a volume knob because they felt like there bass was not loud enough....which again leads to trouble. Like I said, my amp is capable of ~1200-1400W, but my speaker doesn't see nearly that amount of wattage b/c of my gain settings...which means no dimming. Doing some reading is the only way you'll get a real understanding of this topic...and it is a very important one when dealing with aftermarket systems
    It you look straight in my eyes you still might see a disguise

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by galantgtz36
    Quote Originally Posted by cutthrote
    I would get an amp that puts out ~1000W @ 1 ohm since you have the DVC 2 ohm model. This will give your amp more headroom as you can always set the amps gain to match the wattage your seeking and you wouldn't have to push the amp to its full potential. This also leaves you more wattage in case you plan to upgrade your subwoofer(s) in the future. The 750W kicker amp would be perfectly fine though since their amps are underrated. My kx1200.1 actually puts outs ~1400W @ 1ohm according to the birthsheet. I have that amp pushing my 500W type R which is seeing ~900W. I wouldn't recommend getting an amp drastically larger than 1000W @ 1ohm unless you have or plan on getting a H.O. alternator....they cost more anyway!
    oh yeah about that, my headlights and interior lights blink when my system is up. does this mean i need a H.O alternator, or a better capacitor cuz now i only have the cheap schosche 500k cap. im thinkin about gettin the tsunami 2 farad or atleast 1.2. my friend told me when i get my hid lights they wont blink but i jus wanna know if my battery and alternator are gonna die out . thanx bro
    :?: I realized I really didn't answer your specific question though. The first question I would ask is how did you go about setting your gains on the sony amp? If you already have a cap and are using the sony amp, I'm sure upgrading the cap will not eliminate the dimming. Im pretty sure that specific amp doesn't produce a lot of RMS wattage, but if your gains are not properly set than you could be producing a clipped signal which could easily cause the dimming. I can not help but stress properly setting your gain before you waste any money on buying a cap and experiencing the same results....besides, setting your gains is free(if you have a DMM) and it allows you to determine how much current your amp will draw based on your charging system supply. You bass wont be as loud after properly setting the gains on the sony amp, but at this point you start to think about upgrading the amp which brings us back to your original question...
    It you look straight in my eyes you still might see a disguise

  5. #25
    iight change of plans, i wanna feel more bass so this is wut im gonna get

    1 kicker zx 1500 for 2 kicker 12 inch L7's (2ohm subs)
    tsunami 2 farad cap

    ..or should i just stick with kickerzx1000 for 2 L7's?

    and are mono amps bad for powering 2 subs?

  6. #26
    monoblock amps are fine for 2 subs

    as for which one, the zx1000.1 will put out the perfect power for two l7s, but the zx1500.1 will put out a little more than needed. you can use it, but will need to make sure you adjust gains right or you risk blowing the subs
    ...pain is temporary, pride is forever...


  7. #27
    If you wont some serious bass, you need to go w/ Memphis.

    I had 2 12" subs w/a 1200 watt JL Audio amp and nobody around here could

    stand up next to it!

  8. #28
    Ideally, the zx1500.1 would be a perfect match for two 4ohm 12" L7's, but like nycking23 and myself said...its all about how you use your gain. Im sure you will not be able to push a full 1500 watts with a stock alternator without damaging something unless you keep the volume at a minimum level. I would trying thinking about how much wattage you can use with a stock alternator and then choosing your subs according to that limit...not the other way around
    It you look straight in my eyes you still might see a disguise

  9. #29
    What happens if i use my 500k farad scosche capacitor with a kicker zx1000.1 amp? should i get the tsunami 2 farad capacitor or the 5 farad one?

  10. #30
    also will a kicker zx1000.1 amp be a good match for two mtx 8512-44 subs? my friend has mtx subs and those things jus drop bass and pound haaardddd

  11. #31
    i have a Pioneer AVIC-D3 headunit that connects to a JL 1000/1 amp which pushes two Alpine Type-R's and those are only rated at 500 RMS. A JL 1000/1 will surely push your L7 like none other. it's rated at 1.5 ohms to 4 ohms so you're golden. Also look into the MTX Audio 1501 amp. it's also 1000W RMS and i've heard it with a W7 and it hits clean and hard! If your going to use subs like L7's go nothing less than a class D amplifier. thats what i recommend

  12. #32
    TGC Regular djflex167's Avatar
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    with some rockford fosgate apm, you'll be set!

  13. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by nycking23 View Post
    monoblock amps are fine for 2 subs

    as for which one, the zx1000.1 will put out the perfect power for two l7s, but the zx1500.1 will put out a little more than needed. you can use it, but will need to make sure you adjust gains right or you risk blowing the subs
    i doubt the zx1000 will power 2 L7's good. I have a zx1000 hooked up to one L7 dvc 4 ohm and its weak. the installation place put the gain low and nothin, so i have the gain at 3 quarters now and its not poundin like an L7 should. The dude said it was wired at 2 ohms so i dunno im going with mtx 7500's or 8500's to try something new.

  14. #34
    Experienced TGC Member fliegendaffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cutthrote View Post
    Ideally, the zx1500.1 would be a perfect match for two 4ohm 12" L7's, but like nycking23 and myself said...its all about how you use your gain.
    please tell me you don't use your gain knob like a volume knob...

  15. #35
    Experienced TGC Member fliegendaffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by galantgtz36 View Post
    i doubt the zx1000 will power 2 L7's good. I have a zx1000 hooked up to one L7 dvc 4 ohm and its weak. the installation place put the gain low and nothin, so i have the gain at 3 quarters now and its not poundin like an L7 should. The dude said it was wired at 2 ohms so i dunno im going with mtx 7500's or 8500's to try something new.
    i would make sure the VCs are wired in parallel first. because that doesn't sound right. also, try reversing the polarity of your sub, sometimes that can increase the SPL. it could also be the box it's in.

  16. #36
    Experienced TGC Member fliegendaffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by racesnos View Post
    i have a Pioneer AVIC-D3 headunit that connects to a JL 1000/1 amp which pushes two Alpine Type-R's and those are only rated at 500 RMS. A JL 1000/1 will surely push your L7 like none other. it's rated at 1.5 ohms to 4 ohms so you're golden. Also look into the MTX Audio 1501 amp. it's also 1000W RMS and i've heard it with a W7 and it hits clean and hard! If your going to use subs like L7's go nothing less than a class D amplifier. thats what i recommend
    i concure with a lot of this. class D amps are the most efficient amps, but are bad for SQ, but L7's aren't built for SQ. but one thing to keep in mind, you don't need to match your RMS of your subs and amp up. the wattage on the subs just mean the heat it can handle. so you can hook up a 3000 watt amp to a 1000 watt sub and it will still function perfectly and not kill the sub, as long as you set it up properly.

  17. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by fliegendaffe View Post
    please tell me you don't use your gain knob like a volume knob...
    I don't...thats why I mentioned its all about how you set your gain in a couple of my previous post. My point was the same as yours about the 3000W amp vs. 1000W speaker. There's lots of good info in this thread for people looking at sub and amp setups.
    It you look straight in my eyes you still might see a disguise

  18. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by fliegendaffe View Post
    i would make sure the VCs are wired in parallel first. because that doesn't sound right. also, try reversing the polarity of your sub, sometimes that can increase the SPL. it could also be the box it's in.
    If i get a bigger box will it hit harder? Are the ones on ebay good? I really think the dude at cartronics didnt know how to wire my sub in parallel. Ima check it out this weekend wit my friend and try to wire it accordin to diagram on crutchfield.

  19. #39
    Experienced TGC Member fliegendaffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by galantgtz36 View Post
    If i get a bigger box will it hit harder? Are the ones on ebay good? I really think the dude at cartronics didnt know how to wire my sub in parallel. Ima check it out this weekend wit my friend and try to wire it accordin to diagram on crutchfield.
    depends on the air volume of the box. if the sub needs a ported or not. etc

  20. #40
    Experienced TGC Member fliegendaffe's Avatar
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    is the kicker in the kicker box? then if it is, leave it in there. maybe put some insulation in there.

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