its sooo wonderful reading you finally say that when ive been trying to get you to go that route for the last two years. but hey its happening and here i am staying NA. this better be worth it. the secret should do it for me.
So what year is your car? Sorry for the OT but i was still wondering what I would have to do after I complete my 5 speed swap in my i4 02.Originally Posted by fatal1
bothis your car and 00 or are you using the 00 ecu to get rid of the cel from the 5 speed swap?
you can swap ecu's its not hard at all and you can pick up the need parts for like 150-175
Not to discourage fatal1 since he already has the kit, but I think you all should go read this thread: http://www.club3g.com/forum/gt-gts/9...ml#post2275780
This is how RIPP conducts business. Just READ how their representative uses unprofessional language (constant inappropriate cursing, etc), poor English, and ignores what people are saying in general. DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH THIS COMPANY. That's all I have to say. All I'm going to say to people asking whether they should buy a RIPP product from now on is: invest your money in something else.
my car is a 00 and in order for me not to throw any codes i have to stay with that ecu.... so i can pass inspectionSo what year is your car? Sorry for the OT but i was still wondering what I would have to do after I complete my 5 speed swap in my i4 02.bothis your car and 00 or are you using the 00 ecu to get rid of the cel from the 5 speed swap?
you can swap ecu's its not hard at all and you can pick up the need parts for like 150-175
i reccomend if you havent done so already to read goosey's tutorial it is pretty detailed and has a lot of pics, unfortunatelly since you have an 02 you cant as of yet bypass the code....so if you have an inspection in your state you WILL NOT pass....the car will run fine etc but the 02 and 03 ecus are much different then thier predicessors...
the 99 and 00 ecus are fine for the swap the 01 will throw a code as well however the ecu is essentially the same as the 00 and therefore the 00 can be swapped in along with the immobilizer
there are still people looking into possible fixes...i know goosey himself is running off an evo ecu so there may be potential there as well
well its apparent that you really want to be supercharged with this kit and are really ambitious about it. thats cool and good luck. just remember that tim and i are here if you have any questions or concerns about the ripp kit. just beware though. tim has been through so much crap with the setup and now is going to get rid of it. so.....
but on the real at least you will be boosted right? i just hope that you yourself know an extreme amount about your vehicle and how it is supposed to operate and are about to notice something is wrong before it kills your motor or are able to at least save it. you should definately invest in some spare parts so that you have them to fall back on in the event of something catastophic happening. (heads, block, ecu, ect)
Speaking of this, I just realized I can't pass emissions if I don't get a manual ECU. Kind of retarded, but most shops here just scan your OBD-II system and call it a day. I can always reset the codes as soon as I pull up, but I'd prefer the simpler Eclipse manual ECU so long as I can keep my immobilizer. Shouldn't be a problem since I have ECUFlash to change the immobilizer code.my car is a 00 and in order for me not to throw any codes i have to stay with that ecu.... so i can pass inspectionSo what year is your car? Sorry for the OT but i was still wondering what I would have to do after I complete my 5 speed swap in my i4 02.bothis your car and 00 or are you using the 00 ecu to get rid of the cel from the 5 speed swap?
you can swap ecu's its not hard at all and you can pick up the need parts for like 150-175
i reccomend if you havent done so already to read goosey's tutorial it is pretty detailed and has a lot of pics, unfortunatelly since you have an 02 you cant as of yet bypass the code....so if you have an inspection in your state you WILL NOT pass....the car will run fine etc but the 02 and 03 ecus are much different then thier predicessors...
the 99 and 00 ecus are fine for the swap the 01 will throw a code as well however the ecu is essentially the same as the 00 and therefore the 00 can be swapped in along with the immobilizer
there are still people looking into possible fixes...i know goosey himself is running off an evo ecu so there may be potential there as well
i keep telling you that the manual ecu pinout is different and the plugs arent even compatible. thats one of the reasons i didnt search for one during my parts collection for my swap.
dont quote me on this tim but it seems that the manual eclipse ecu will throw other codes, i believe roman tried that as well in his car although its a 4cyl it seems that the same troubles occour in the ecu area... also if you just clear the codes when you get to the place you still need that drive time for the ecu to reread everything otherwise the ecu will just say its not ready basically
Well I'll just clip the harness and do some major re-wiring one weekend. My difficulty is that I can't find in the service manual what triggers the shift solenoid malfunction codes... every other P0xxx code has a service manual entry specifying exactly what triggers it (voltage range, bad waveform, etc). It would be easy enough to rig up 4 little circuits to simulate the shift solenoids, but I need to find out what the ECU is looking for first.
well it was somewhat of a spur of the moment buy, the price was right so i jumped on it, i considered this which is why i plan on only running real conservative boost level primarily stage 1 6-8 psi especially since the internals are stock and for now i want reliability which is my major concern of all, most of the problems i have read about in my past weeks of research has been about people who are running higher boost levels and above stage one kits etc...eventually i plan on building something up potentially and then i will go for higher numbers but defianetly not untill then
I had my fair share of problems on "Stage 1," so YMMV.well it was somewhat of a spur of the moment buy, the price was right so i jumped on it, i considered this which is why i plan on only running real conservative boost level primarily stage 1 6-8 psi especially since the internals are stock and for now i want reliability which is my major concern of all, most of the problems i have read about in my past weeks of research has been about people who are running higher boost levels and above stage one kits etc...eventually i plan on building something up potentially and then i will go for higher numbers but defianetly not untill then
man i just really hope it doesnt come around to bite you in the ass later. hell i believe even vegasmatt was stage 1 and his motor gave a couple of times before he got tired of it. defiantely before the install make certain you learn as much as you can not only about the emanage and its functions and features but learn more in depth about the 6g72 and our ecu's. it will help tremendously and will save you money.well it was somewhat of a spur of the moment buy, the price was right so i jumped on it, i considered this which is why i plan on only running real conservative boost level primarily stage 1 6-8 psi especially since the internals are stock and for now i want reliability which is my major concern of all, most of the problems i have read about in my past weeks of research has been about people who are running higher boost levels and above stage one kits etc...eventually i plan on building something up potentially and then i will go for higher numbers but defianetly not untill then
this clipping the harness thing does not sound well placed. i tell you what just procure an eclipse gt manual harness and we can install that and use the ecu. that way the codes and its circuits will be taken out of the equation.Well I'll just clip the harness and do some major re-wiring one weekend. My difficulty is that I can't find in the service manual what triggers the shift solenoid malfunction codes... every other P0xxx code has a service manual entry specifying exactly what triggers it (voltage range, bad waveform, etc). It would be easy enough to rig up 4 little circuits to simulate the shift solenoids, but I need to find out what the ECU is looking for first.
i agree i would try not to clip the harness either... i really reccomend pming goosey as he could inform you on the troubles he had on the 4cyl, obviously it could be different on the v6 but nonetheless
yeah i know i have talked with roman before and he is very helpful. i was so proud after i did the tranny swap i called him thanking him like some little girl and i didnt get made fun of. lol. he was proud of it too though.
tim lets see about getting a new gt manual harness and working with that. that option will also give you the availability to get the boomslang harness and start from scratch
ok... I won't tear up and splice my harness. I was looking at the E-Manage Ultimate manual for reference, and it looks like it's just the main middle connector that I'd need to rewire.
fatal, any updates or recent decisions?
still going trough with it lol i just purchased the megan headers and will be buying a set of injectors from tim have the guages, still need the wideband and engine management
the aem fic doesnt work as i was told w/ the sds and doesnt read the injectors from someone who tried it
Those Megan Racing headers look to be just like the 1st gen CMF headers and the OBX headers on eBay. Unequal length secondaries, cheap, cheap, cheap. Like boostzealot and I have urged you, don't buy cheap shit unless you want your car to suck. I'm serious.
im not in the habbit of going cheap w/ the car lol if you look at it im sure you can tell... megan has made reliable stuff in the past so i would trust them to an extent, definatelly wouldnt compare them to obx
but also they arent too expensive so if the sc doesnt work out they will easily resell and get most the the $$ back and if it does work out then i will go with a set of rpws if these seem cheaper
they measure 2.5" untill the end of the dp where it measures 2.25 at the flange i would prob have to cut that part off anyway for the hfc
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