4" Magnaflow **LOCK**

[99 galant]

wait... do i have a canister lol?

whats the difference

[WarmAndSCSI]

wait... do i have a canister lol?

whats the difference

You have an OEM-style oval muffler if I remember the for sale thread. A canister muffler is round like a coffee can and typically has less sound deadening ability.

[99 galant]

kk im noob

[spdracr]

not to highjack ur thread but I have a question for warm, would u happen to know of a good canister muffle for the i4 that will give a good deep sound and not sound loud or raspy, I will be upgrading my piping and maybe buy the one that has been posted in the ebay section

Not being a dick or anything, but IMHO a canister muffler will not sound good on a non-turbo I4... I really don't know what to say. Any domestic oval muffler or any chambered muffler will sound good but a straight-through canister style muffler will sound like ass on an N/A 4G64. If you want a deep, quiet, and smooth (not raspy) sound, look elsewhere beside a canister muffler.

what do u recommend ??? in open to other options I mean if a canister is not for my car then I'm not gonna be upset

so what is the best options for me??

If you're dead set on a canister, get the street series Magnaflow that Reelax posted up.

that has a 2.25 inlet which if im not mistaken stock piping, so what do i need to do if i end up going with a 2.5 piping ???

[WarmAndSCSI]

not to highjack ur thread but I have a question for warm, would u happen to know of a good canister muffle for the i4 that will give a good deep sound and not sound loud or raspy, I will be upgrading my piping and maybe buy the one that has been posted in the ebay section

Not being a dick or anything, but IMHO a canister muffler will not sound good on a non-turbo I4... I really don't know what to say. Any domestic oval muffler or any chambered muffler will sound good but a straight-through canister style muffler will sound like ass on an N/A 4G64. If you want a deep, quiet, and smooth (not raspy) sound, look elsewhere beside a canister muffler.

what do u recommend ??? in open to other options I mean if a canister is not for my car then I'm not gonna be upset

so what is the best options for me??

If you're dead set on a canister, get the street series Magnaflow that Reelax posted up.

that has a 2.25 inlet which if im not mistaken stock piping, so what do i need to do if i end up going with a 2.5 piping ???

It'll be fine. The core should be 2.5" so your exhaust shop can just spread the inlet from 2.25" to 2.5"

[spdracr]

ok the sound clip sound nice but thats the race series and they dont offer a clip of the street series so im just gonna have to assume its almost the same

[fliegendaffe]

ok the sound clip sound nice but thats the race series and they dont offer a clip of the street series so im just gonna have to assume its almost the same

it's about the same but a lil more quiet

[WarmAndSCSI]

ok the sound clip sound nice but thats the race series and they dont offer a clip of the street series so im just gonna have to assume its almost the same

RRE's sound clips are of a 6G72 any way... it's not going to sound the same at all.

[Reelax]

not to highjack ur thread but I have a question for warm, would u happen to know of a good canister muffle for the i4 that will give a good deep sound and not sound loud or raspy, I will be upgrading my piping and maybe buy the one that has been posted in the ebay section

Not being a dick or anything, but IMHO a canister muffler will not sound good on a non-turbo I4... I really don't know what to say. Any domestic oval muffler or any chambered muffler will sound good but a straight-through canister style muffler will sound like ass on an N/A 4G64. If you want a deep, quiet, and smooth (not raspy) sound, look elsewhere beside a canister muffler.

what do u recommend ??? in open to other options I mean if a canister is not for my car then I'm not gonna be upset

so what is the best options for me??

If you're dead set on a canister, get the street series Magnaflow that Reelax posted up.

that has a 2.25 inlet which if im not mistaken stock piping, so what do i need to do if i end up going with a 2.5 piping ???

wait, why do u want to go w/ 2.5" piping? u have an i4... stick w/ 2,25 unless u are going FI... (then go 3")

[WarmAndSCSI]

not to highjack ur thread but I have a question for warm, would u happen to know of a good canister muffle for the i4 that will give a good deep sound and not sound loud or raspy, I will be upgrading my piping and maybe buy the one that has been posted in the ebay section

Not being a dick or anything, but IMHO a canister muffler will not sound good on a non-turbo I4... I really don't know what to say. Any domestic oval muffler or any chambered muffler will sound good but a straight-through canister style muffler will sound like ass on an N/A 4G64. If you want a deep, quiet, and smooth (not raspy) sound, look elsewhere beside a canister muffler.

what do u recommend ??? in open to other options I mean if a canister is not for my car then I'm not gonna be upset

so what is the best options for me??

If you're dead set on a canister, get the street series Magnaflow that Reelax posted up.

that has a 2.25 inlet which if im not mistaken stock piping, so what do i need to do if i end up going with a 2.5 piping ???

wait, why do u want to go w/ 2.5" piping? u have an i4... stick w/ 2,25 unless u are going FI... (then go 3")

He's right, really. We're building boostzealot's 6G74 for N/A performance right now and I'm telling him to just stick with the 2.36" GReddy exhaust. 2.25" is more than enough flow for any N/A 4G64 in all truth.

[6G72gearhead]

With a tuned header like the RPW unit, a properly designed system can make good use of up to 3" pipe. I've been talking with an exhaust specialist in the area, and he's been saying that at some point you have to stop trying to keep the velocity high and increase the diameter to provide flow through the bends around the rear axle. Which makes sense to me. If you're getting the velocity out of the tuned header, and just hold that velocity and increase flow behind that, the motors going to perform the same or better.

When I get my system done, its going to taper up from the 2.25 of the RPW header to a 3" and run that out back.

It kinda goes along with the knowladge that most all engines with a quality tuned header do not need an exhaust system past that, and make more power without one. Thus racing engines that run straight headers.

[Reelax]

With a tuned header like the RPW unit, a properly designed system can make good use of up to 3" pipe. I've been talking with an exhaust specialist in the area, and he's been saying that at some point you have to stop trying to keep the velocity high and increase the diameter to provide flow through the bends around the rear axle. Which makes sense to me. If you're getting the velocity out of the tuned header, and just hold that velocity and increase flow behind that, the motors going to perform the same or better.

When I get my system done, its going to taper up from the 2.25 of the RPW header to a 3" and run that out back.

It kinda goes along with the knowladge that most all engines with a quality tuned header do not need an exhaust system past that, and make more power without one. Thus racing engines that run straight headers.

but there has been no mention of a header here... the 4g64 at 2.25" mandrel is plenty unless it has heavy NA bulidup and a well designed header... 2.5" on the 4g64 is pointless w/ stock header unless you are going FI or heavy NA (w/ headers)... at which point you would jump to 3" cat back in either case.

[6G72gearhead]

With a tuned header like the RPW unit, a properly designed system can make good use of up to 3" pipe. I've been talking with an exhaust specialist in the area, and he's been saying that at some point you have to stop trying to keep the velocity high and increase the diameter to provide flow through the bends around the rear axle. Which makes sense to me. If you're getting the velocity out of the tuned header, and just hold that velocity and increase flow behind that, the motors going to perform the same or better.

When I get my system done, its going to taper up from the 2.25 of the RPW header to a 3" and run that out back.

It kinda goes along with the knowladge that most all engines with a quality tuned header do not need an exhaust system past that, and make more power without one. Thus racing engines that run straight headers.

but there has been no mention of a header here... the 4g64 at 2.25" mandrel is plenty unless it has heavy NA bulidup and a well designed header... 2.5" on the 4g64 is pointless w/ stock header unless you are going FI or heavy NA (w/ headers)... at which point you would jump to 3" cat back in either case.

I'm aware of that, its just there are 3 exhaust threads and its hard to keep track of the minute differences between them. I was just going off of what warm had posted and thought this was the full exhaust thread. But no this is the mufflers and a very small amount of talk on pipeing thread.

[Reelax]

With a tuned header like the RPW unit, a properly designed system can make good use of up to 3" pipe. I've been talking with an exhaust specialist in the area, and he's been saying that at some point you have to stop trying to keep the velocity high and increase the diameter to provide flow through the bends around the rear axle. Which makes sense to me. If you're getting the velocity out of the tuned header, and just hold that velocity and increase flow behind that, the motors going to perform the same or better.

When I get my system done, its going to taper up from the 2.25 of the RPW header to a 3" and run that out back.

It kinda goes along with the knowladge that most all engines with a quality tuned header do not need an exhaust system past that, and make more power without one. Thus racing engines that run straight headers.

but there has been no mention of a header here... the 4g64 at 2.25" mandrel is plenty unless it has heavy NA bulidup and a well designed header... 2.5" on the 4g64 is pointless w/ stock header unless you are going FI or heavy NA (w/ headers)... at which point you would jump to 3" cat back in either case.

I'm aware of that, its just there are 3 exhaust threads and its hard to keep track of the minute differences between them. I was just going off of what warm had posted and thought this was the full exhaust thread. But no this is the mufflers and a very small amount of talk on pipeing thread.

we're all 3 saying the same thing. lightly modded 4g64, stick w/ 2.25" piping.

[6G72gearhead]

With a tuned header like the RPW unit, a properly designed system can make good use of up to 3" pipe. I've been talking with an exhaust specialist in the area, and he's been saying that at some point you have to stop trying to keep the velocity high and increase the diameter to provide flow through the bends around the rear axle. Which makes sense to me. If you're getting the velocity out of the tuned header, and just hold that velocity and increase flow behind that, the motors going to perform the same or better.

When I get my system done, its going to taper up from the 2.25 of the RPW header to a 3" and run that out back.

It kinda goes along with the knowladge that most all engines with a quality tuned header do not need an exhaust system past that, and make more power without one. Thus racing engines that run straight headers.

but there has been no mention of a header here... the 4g64 at 2.25" mandrel is plenty unless it has heavy NA bulidup and a well designed header... 2.5" on the 4g64 is pointless w/ stock header unless you are going FI or heavy NA (w/ headers)... at which point you would jump to 3" cat back in either case.

I'm aware of that, its just there are 3 exhaust threads and its hard to keep track of the minute differences between them. I was just going off of what warm had posted and thought this was the full exhaust thread. But no this is the mufflers and a very small amount of talk on pipeing thread.

we're all 3 saying the same thing. lightly modded 4g64, stick w/ 2.25" piping.

Yup, I was just talking 6G72's with warm.

[WarmAndSCSI]

I'll agree to a point, but I don't know of any headers that have a 3" downpipe. You should keep the exhaust the same diameter as the downpipe because every transition in size creates unnecessary turbulence. The exhaust needs to be tuned to match the primary and secondary piping diameters. What's more important is scavenging and you're going to really screw up the exhaust pulses with an exhaust that large on an N/A application. 3" is way too big for an N/A 3.0 L, no matter how wild the setup is.

[spdracr]

ok i don't know what FI means but what I got so far is to stay with stock piping unless I go boost or N/A

[WarmAndSCSI]

ok i don't know what FI means but what I got so far is to stay with stock piping unless I go boost or N/A

FI = forced induction in this context (don't get it confused with fuel injection). AKA boost

[GOOSEY2099]

i think i have to add to this thread.. I'm runnign a 3" turbo back custom piping all the way to a 3" magnaflow mufler with a 5" tip(oops) and it sounds real nice. Nice and quiet untill i open it up. I would never suggest putting that on a car that is not turboed/supercharged. On a side note installing exhaust/muflers/headers/intake/performance chips/filters/thicker sparkplug wires/NAWS!! sticker without actual ecu retune/engine work is PURE a waste of money. if you aren't boosting, save money and do it the right way. I don't care if your car can make a farting sound your still as slow as you were before. Thats that, Thats all i have to add to this. BTW this is comming from a person that had all those upgrades done multiple time.

[spdracr]

I'm looking to go FI but I'm still reading on and I figured my car will look nicer with a muffler and I will need the muffler when I boost anyway