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Thread: problems yet again

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  1. #1

    problems yet again

    ok i swear i'm gonna sell the stupid car! now to the problem

    everytime i start the car when it's been sitting for a while it blows out smoke with a blueish tint. i can't smell shit cause the high flow cat. second issue is the car still tries to stall the first time you take off even after reaching operating temp.

    i am loosing oil from somewhere by the belts. i think it might be main seal? what is a possible location?

    the car is bi-polar some days it pulls hard as shit and i can chirp the wheels going into 3rd
    other days it struggles to get to moving.

    one thing i know my clutch is ok, no slipping. plugs look like they always do, everybody says lean.

    any ideas?

    "DSM's, making people mechanics since 1985"
    Quote Originally Posted by polishmafia
    You want real respect from those fools? Don't race him. Tell him racing is a sport left to young boys who are still waiting for their balls to drop. Then while he's out racing, fuck his girlfriend in the ass, take pics, and leave them on his car while hes at school.

  2. #2
    You are here entirely tooo much!! 4-G-rim's Avatar
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    The blueish tint smoke coming out of the exhaust is a sign you are burning oil and possibly oil is leaking past your piston rings. If its only during startup its really not that bad..but if its constant then you got a problem.

    As far as the stalling during acceleration...is the CEL lit up?

    Oil could leaking from several different spots from the front of the motor (belts and pulleys side). Most likely it will be your crank seal which is obvisouly at the crank..but to get to it you will have to remove the harmonic balancer, Tbelt pulley, Bshaft pulley, Crank position sensor plate. There is a oil pump seal which is behind the oil pump pulley, and the camshaft oil seal which requires you to move the Tbelt and camshaft pulley.

    One thing though to help figure out your stalling and lean burns is if the CEL light is lit up.

    1991 Galant VR4 1948/2000_________1996 Galant "S" 5 speed 2.4L turbo

  3. #3
    Senior Moderator DOHCstunr's Avatar
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    why would you want to chirp the wheels in ANY gear? quickshifting is a quick route to shitcanned synchros


    unfortunatly mass airflow equipped vehicles are going to be hit and miss when it comes to making power, simpl because air temps change, air pressure changes.
    these are factors that will make it run great one day, and shitty an hour later.
    unless you get standalone..... you will always be dealing with that.

    the best you can do is keep your fuel system and ignition system in a glorious state of repair. make sure you don't have a SINGLE exhaust leak either. exhaust leaks will KILL your power. you probably have more than you think. but i garunttee your exhaust isn't leakfree.





    as far as the internal leak goes? it probably is rings. but do a compression check, and if yoru numbers check out. then it could be just exhaust side valve seals.
    and i'll just go ahead and say it.....
    if yoru engine has over 120k miles. its going to have worn valve seals. especially if you are a hard driver.


    the external leak, could just be your oil pan near the timing case.
    have you ever done a timing belt on yoru engine?

    if not, then why not go ahead and do the timing belt, and do the balance shaft removal.
    while you are doing the removal, you can replace the oil pump case gasket with a new OEM one, as well as the oil filter housing gasket, and you can redo the oil pan gasket as well. (you'll also have access to the front main seal, front balance shaft seal, and the oil pump shaft seal)
    use all OEM mitsubishi gaskets..... and you can garuntee yourself a leak free bottom end. all whilst making more power and quicker, free-er revs

    and its easy work too.
    ______________________________

    1994 Galant GS-Turbo

  4. #4
    Experienced TGC Member
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    I have a leak in the same area man.. Its my oil pan gasket. It leaked before i did the rebuild and its doing it again. It freaked me out because i thought it was one of the seals. But i took my timing cover off and there wasnt any seals leaking..... So id suggest that you look into that. Its not hard to get in there to see. I have the same problem with the car running good one day and runs like shit the next day.. And thanks to John.. Now i know where my problem is. As for the wanting to stall. Try checking your distributor. My car chugs a little bit for the first start of the day but it goes away after a few seconds i still cant figure that out and i have a brand new distributor, plugs, wires, rotor button, and cap.

  5. #5
    -the motor is at 89k
    -timing belt and all others were replaced at 72k as well as the harmonic balancer
    -the bluish smoke is only on start up for the first 10 sec
    - i know i prob have some nice exhaust leaks, but i am working on that
    - no check engine light


    one thing i forgot to mention is that the car sounds like it's got a blow off valve. i heard a funny noise and had my cousin rev it while i listened in the engine bay. when the car goes to 5k and you let of the throttle it makes a blow off. it can only be heard from inside the car by the passanger firewall.

    is it possible that my ecu is retarded? it took 2 1/2 weeks to throw a code when i didn't have the rear oxygen sensor in the exhaust hooked up.

    and i'm not saying i'm trying to chirp the tires, but when i get excited and it's running good it does it. i value my tires, clutch and tranny

    "DSM's, making people mechanics since 1985"
    Quote Originally Posted by polishmafia
    You want real respect from those fools? Don't race him. Tell him racing is a sport left to young boys who are still waiting for their balls to drop. Then while he's out racing, fuck his girlfriend in the ass, take pics, and leave them on his car while hes at school.

  6. #6
    TGC Regular phizzalot's Avatar
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    Well I don't know If you know but in my research to replace my clucth for my evo.... I t has been noted that the LIGHTER your flywheel, the harder to accelerate from when your stoped.

    It also is a bit harder to drive in a area with hills due to the lightened flywheel properties... But they say it is the price you must pay for it helping out at higher speeds...

    The oil leak Is probably coming from all your front seals... Mine has been for some time now but will be fixing them, in the near future...
    ---||| 97Galant, E3 16G, Safc, 5spd,Drifter Body |||---

  7. #7
    Check your intake for leaks, it may have cracks in it causing it not to put enough air past the sensor. Which would make it run badly.

    It's a guess from you saying that it sounds like it has a blow off valve.
    1996 Galant S

  8. #8
    Moderator mko's Avatar
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    Same here - leak from the front main seal- nasty. Same stalling problem - changed everything and still had it. Disappeared by itself - dont kno /MAS, SPARK WIRES, PCV/

  9. #9
    You are here entirely tooo much!! 4-G-rim's Avatar
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    The best way for you to find your oil leak is to clean as much of the oil thats under the car now with brake cleaner and several rags. Run the car for a couple of days and inspect the area where you had the leak before. You should be able to find the source of the leak and go on from there and fix the issue.

    Now the "blow off" sound is definitely odd. Did you try to either you or a friend to hear for the source of the sound while revving the car? A intake leak will cause stalling issues, trust me I know..I just fixed a issue with my car not too long ago with severe stalling and throttle response issues with a intake related leak.

    1991 Galant VR4 1948/2000_________1996 Galant "S" 5 speed 2.4L turbo

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by 4-G-rim
    The best way for you to find your oil leak is to clean as much of the oil thats under the car now with brake cleaner and several rags. Run the car for a couple of days and inspect the area where you had the leak before. You should be able to find the source of the leak and go on from there and fix the issue.

    Now the "blow off" sound is definitely odd. Did you try to either you or a friend to hear for the source of the sound while revving the car? A intake leak will cause stalling issues, trust me I know..I just fixed a issue with my car not too long ago with severe stalling and throttle response issues with a intake related leak.
    ya i had my head wedged in the engine bay but couldn't hear anthing. the exhaust was too loud. once all the sno clears i will be cleaning everythnig and wait and see.

    could a dirty throttle body do this?

    "DSM's, making people mechanics since 1985"
    Quote Originally Posted by polishmafia
    You want real respect from those fools? Don't race him. Tell him racing is a sport left to young boys who are still waiting for their balls to drop. Then while he's out racing, fuck his girlfriend in the ass, take pics, and leave them on his car while hes at school.

  11. #11
    1gdsm
    Guest

    re

    to check the intake leak: start the car let it idle use a caburator cleanner spray on where ever u think it could be leak if the idle go higher where ever spot that u spray on there a leak

    back to the oil leak ,u saying it leaking on TBELT side ,take off the timing cover use the break cleanner or whatever u think is the best clean (spray )them real good reinstall the crank pully i belive its had 4 bolt
    note: not the T BELTcover start the car let it run and go look for the leak most of time its leak on crank shaft seal but i alway see oil leak at gasket oil pump case my 10th 1g awdDSM and they're alway leak right<-----there
    any way hope this will help,and i just bought a 94 galant its had alot off problem i need to get it run thinking put a swap in it cuz i have a good 6bolt long block and 1 extra head just dont knw where to start and whats i need for the swap hope we can share the expiren from each other

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