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Thread: NoOb, how to set timings on car

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  1. #21
    You are here entirely tooo much!! seth98esT's Avatar
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    Ive posted these several times but I will post them again to help you out. Two tips when installing a t-belt on a SOHC or DOHC motor:

    1) Getting the oil sprocket in time. The way in the manual is correct, but there is an easier way to do it. Rotate the gear untill the timing mark is at 12 o'clock, let go of the gear. If the gear falls counter clockwise, rotate the gear clockwise untill its at 12 o'clock, let it go again, if it falls towards the mark then the balance shaft is in time, line it up with the mark(without rotating it anymore, should be close to the mark as is).

    2) When you put pressure on the timing belt, it will take up some of the slack in the belt and cause your timing to be off a tooth. You can deliberately slip the belt on the cam gear so the cam gear timing is one tooth advanced. Usually have to use an open end wrench on the cam gear bolt to turn it just a hair.

    Those are the only tricky parts. If you dont have the oil sprocket in time, you will have extra vibrations, no power loss. If your timing is off more then a tooth or two, you will notice driveability/performance issues. Good luck!

    [Edit]
    Adding one more:

    3) When pulling the "Grenade" pin out of the auto tensioner, you should be able to slide the pin right back in. Once you pull the pin, rotate the crank with a wrench 8 times(or untill all the marks line back up, wait 10 min, and then try to put the grenade pin back in. You should be able to put the pin back in, sometimes it takes a little pressure. If you notice the tensioner rod in the tensioner noticeably move when you pull the pin, that means you did not tension the tensioner pulley enough.

    Adding another muwah:

    4) To set the tensioner pulley, the manual says to use the "special tool" which slides into the two small holes in the tensioner, and connects to a socket wrench. Those tools are expensive, and I broke one once so here is what I do. You only need a few tools: Socket wrench to tighten the tensioner pulley bolt, pair of vice grips, and an 'L' shaped allen wrench that will fit into one of the holes on the tensioner pulley. Its real easy to do, kinda hard to explain. I posted a sweet drawing of this concept a few years back.

    First go ahead and clamp the vice grips to the long end of the allen wrench. Then basically just put the socket wrench onto the tensioner pulley bolt, and take the allen vice grip tool and slide the smaller side of the allen wrench into one of the holes in the tensioner pulley. When you push the vice grips, it uses the socket as a leverage point, and tightens the pulley.

    OOOOhhh I found the pic lol!

    (Except put the socket wrench on correctly lol!)
    Last edited by seth98esT; 03-25-2008 at 09:32 AM
    7g for life!

  2. #22
    You are here entirely tooo much!! 4-G-rim's Avatar
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    Did you find out what was the cause of your issues?

    1991 Galant VR4 1948/2000_________1996 Galant "S" 5 speed 2.4L turbo

  3. #23
    just tried it, advanced one tooth in the cam sprocket. still getting the sound and bakfires at 4 t 5k rpms. then cheked again and it still half tooth off btw i dont see any pin on the auto tensioner
    Last edited by Joker96; 03-31-2008 at 10:07 PM

  4. #24
    Sorry this is no help with the back firing problem but this picture shows where you insert a screw driver in the back of your enhine block to ensure the balance shaft is aligned correctly when doing a timing belt. If your engine has excessive vibration after doing a timing belt the two most likely causes are not aligning all the timing marks or the balance shaft is 180 degrees out of alignment despite having the timing mark aligned. Picture is shot from the ground looking up.
    Last edited by eksz; 08-14-2009 at 05:34 PM
    jjj
    98 ES (5 spd), 94 GS (5 spd), 94 ES (rebuilt auto), 92 Toyota 4X4, 81 KZ550 A2, 67 Mercedes 250S, 58 Mercedes 190SL

  5. #25
    awesome i saw this on the manul but couldnt find the hole lol. today ill get that belt out an realign it see if everything works fine, if not i found a guy that says he can do it correctly for 120$ guaranteed so guess ill have no choice one more thing.... how do i remove the crank sprocket?
    Last edited by Joker96; 04-03-2008 at 06:02 PM

  6. #26
    You are here entirely tooo much!! seth98esT's Avatar
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    Or you could follow my directions above in Step 1, a lot easier. And if you take the belt off, you are supposed to take the tensioner off, compress it with a c-clamp, put a pin(or 10 penny nail) in the hole, reinstall the tensioner(while still being compressed), align your timing marks, set the tension for the t-belt with the tensioner pulley, then pull the pin out of the auto tensioner. If the shaft in the auto tensioner moves, you dont have enough tension on the t-belt with the tensioner pulley. At that point if you cant put the pin back into the auto tensioner, you have to take it off again, compress it again with a c-clamp, put the pin back in, reinstall the auto tensioner, then re-tension the belt, this time with more tension the previous, and pull the pin again.

    After all that if you can pull the pin and put it back in rather easily, turn the crank 8-10 times till eerything is re-aligned, wait 10 minutes, and try to put the pin back into the auto tensioner. If you can put it back in, the tension is set correctly, if not, theres not enough tension on the belt.
    Last edited by seth98esT; 04-03-2008 at 05:34 PM
    7g for life!

  7. #27
    lol at first when i read that i didnt understand a thing now all makes sense lol am such a noob anyway in this procedure do i still need to remove the crank sprocket? the sprocket for the outer belt

  8. #28
    Follow this link to tutorial on how to change timing beltand then scroll down to picture of the crankshaft pulley https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=16604

    Basically you just need to pull the center bolt on the pulley. A half inch drive from a socket set fits in the opening. If you have access to an air compressor and air tool, that is the easiest way to pop it off.
    jjj
    98 ES (5 spd), 94 GS (5 spd), 94 ES (rebuilt auto), 92 Toyota 4X4, 81 KZ550 A2, 67 Mercedes 250S, 58 Mercedes 190SL

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