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  1. #1

    MTCavity’s 2003 Galant Turbo Journal

    I put this together over the build of my Galant and plan to keep on going, even though another model might be added eventually. Some of the future plans are GETTING NEW RIMS!!!, 5 speed swap?, disk break upgrade, coil-over suspension, EVO DOHC head swap, rod/piston upgrade, and would love to do a AWD (there are enough Eclipse’s that did the AWD swap and it’s about time a Galant does).

    My other side project is ECU programming studies and the Open ECU Forums. “Johnathansgalant” has been one of the most active that I know on the subject and will hopefully someday be able to test out some other concepts behind engine management myself. The Galant in stock form is considerably an “emissions friendly” vehicle, where the ECU is programmed for emissions control, I would like to build a program to revamp the data to function like Haltech, AEM, Electromotive or Motec.

    But without further “me me” BS, here is my “baby” and her upgrades.


    As the G sits now.









    Parts list and description;

    PLX Wideband O2 (DM-5 digital display module/SM-AFR Wideband Air/Fuel Sensor module). PLX is not only affordable for the mild tuner, but will be right at home in the race environment due to the incredible expandability. It allowed me to tune in the fuel delivery with EASE. I will be replacing my EGT, Oil pressure and Boost gauges with PLX Devices.

    SM-IAT (Intake Air Temperature - Sensor Module)


    SM-EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature - Sensor Module)


    SM-AFR/DM-5 AFR (Air/Fuel Ratio - Sensor Module/Display Module)


    DM-100 Digital monitor.


    Timing belt, balancing shaft belt, timing tensioner bearing, balancing belt tensioner bearing, and timing pulley bearing. I love you NAPA!


    Turbocharger pictures. Small .42 air .48 hot for fast spool low boost (I want 15lbs or less). I chose a smaller turbo for my build because of the nature of the 4G64 power band. Most of the power is derived from 2200 RPM – 5500 RPM, with a red-line of 6500. Stock HP is rated at 140 @ 5500, Torque (lb-ft) 155 @ 4000 RPM, out of a SOHC head with a bore and stroke of 3.41 X 3.94. Factory compression is just begging to be boosted of 9.0:1. Full boost is realized at 2400 RPM and can run up to 12psi steady, although I run it at around 9psi for day to day driving.








    This is an exhaust manifold for a 4G63t, but mounts up to the 4G64.





    Cam gear. This will allow me to make timing changes "across the board", while leaving the "tuning" to ECU Flash. This is probably going to be tuned back or "retarded" (he he) so I lower the chances of knock.


    Waste-gate, I will be plumbing into the exhaust system myself also.


    Blow off valve, not assembled.


    BOV dry and ready.



    Turbo oil line kit, supply & return lines and fittings.


    Injectors!!! I purchased 2 sets not feeling very safe about the output. The left 4 are 335cc/min Bosch high impedance, while on the right are the make "me feel safe at boost" 450cc/min Lucas high impedance injectors, along with injector harnesses.


    This is a TRE-Performance 255lph (112psi max) fuel pump and relay for wiring a constant 12 volt+ and higher rated amperage power supply line.


    OBX enlarged fuel rail for the 4G63t. I had to "enlarge" it a little more myself, more on this later.


    FPR (Aeromotive was installed later, but is on now), Vacuum lines, Fuel Lines and Fittings.


    Intercooler and piping, although I will not be using the couplings sent with this kit and purchased Polyester Re-enforced Silicone Couplers


    . If I could do it all over again, I would just have gotten E-Manage. APEX’i is pretty good stuff though, for the money.

    APEX'i AVC-R Actuator Valve Controller (Digital Boost Controller)



    Turbo XS Programmable Knock Light/Factory Mitsubishi Knock Sensor.



    Oil Catch Can - Prevents oil buildup in throttle body and intake manifold.


    Hayden Tube & Fin, Power steering cooler.


    Oil cooler (Bar & Plate) and filter re-locator, I am still waiting on a thermostat to allow for quick warm-ups. Installing this looks fun and yet complicated. Like I did not have enough crap under the hood to take care of...



    Hayden Bar & Plate, Transmission Oil Cooler.


    New MAF adaptor, the K&N 5 1/2" will be too hard to plumb into the intake/intercooler system.


    Carbon Fiber Trunk Lid.



    Carbon Fiber License Plate Frame.


    Carbon Fiber Hood.


    Carbon Fiber Gas Cap Cover.


    O2 sensor, heater circuit CEL defeater. 20 Watt, 10 Ohm resistor.


    Hood pins for Carbon Fiber Hood.


    Megan Carbon Fiber Muffler (4 lbs).


    Optima, Yellow Top - Dry Cell Battery, Multiple Point Ground System.


    Stainless Steel Flex piping, 2 sections of UJ mandrel bends, 2-5ft sections of straight piping and 3 flange kits for exhaust. I plan on breaking it down into 3 sections for easy removal.




    Thermo-Tech Exhaust Wrapping and silicon sealant.



    APEX'i Radiator Cap (1.3 kg/cm2)


    NEW TURBO SYSTEM!!!
    Hahn Racecraft Super 16G Turbocharger-10psiWG/RevHard Cast Iron EVO Manafold/Extream PSI water line fittings.





    HRC Manifold Spacer Plate/ARP "Long" Head to Manifold studs.
    Last edited by mtcavity1; 10-16-2008 at 10:27 PM

  2. #2
    Installation progression and explanation;

    Installation took approximately 3 months of different phases of progression. With 100,000 miles on the G at this point there was some servicing to the engine needed before any boost is applied.

    Service the engine was “Phase 1” where compression was checked, head was disassembled and gone over to make sure factory specs were maintained (done by my cousin Stacy Brown for those into local stock car racing). I changed the timing belt, balance shaft belt, all pulleys and tensioner, checked that the seals were not leaking at all on the cam or crank and finished up by cleaning the belt side of the motor. I replaced anything wearable on the steering and suspension (tie rods inner/outer, bushings and wheel studs). I did not take many pictures of this and was a little nerve-racking on how important I did everything right the first time (not that I mean to rush through projects, but I do). Kory says, “if the car does not have a sound base, there is nothing to tune”.

    “Phase 2” was fuel delivery upgrades and management installation. OBX fuel rail was “enlarged” to fit the injectors, along with upgraded fuel pump. Pressure is maintained through an OBX FPR, I will be eventually replacing with Areomotive 1:1 FPR. Injectors are Lucas 450cc/min, high-impedance injectors.

    What a pain in the a*$! I guess 13mm is different in China. Oh well.


    Fuel rail, FPR, and injector assembly.



    Then after disassembling again to "fit it" to the intake manifold.





    This took one night for me to put together and another day to check and tune. The hardest part was having to bore out the fuel rail 13mm in width for the injector, and about 16mm depth to properly seat the top of the injectors. The main reason is the very high fuel pressure that will be maintained by the new fuel upgrades. The fuel pump also needed fabricating to fit into the ass-backwards setup Mitsubishi put into these Galants.

    After I got the manifold together and all the lines connected, I re-flashed the vehicle with the correct fuel injector scaling and a tweak to the Injector Voltage Latency. The car took some time to relearn the ignition and fuel adjustments but can now run rich without using the AFC to tune the injectors. I had to build a mount for the Fuel Pressure Riser.


    Knock sensor/Knock Light install.




    Then I opened up the front 2 air dams on both sides of the Galant. The oil cooler needs fresh air to work efficiently. Getting a body kit would be the best bet, although living in my area of PA sucks because of crappy roads. I had nothing but problems with paint on any ABS or fiberglass, no matter how much bonding or flex agent you add. I am not showing this car and is just for fun, so this is what I came up with for an answer. I will also be opening the bumper area underneath the fog-light grill for better air flow.




    Ok, after driving the Galant for 3 days I MUST mention that the fuel system is OUTSTANDING!!! It lost the leaned out popping sound when I get off the gas, it did sound pretty cool. BUT! the fuel system smoothed out the entire power band, smoother power transitioning between shifts, smoother idle at off the throttle coasting, and deeper/richer exhaust tone and more fuel at partial throttle.

    I will have to replace all the coolant lines that run to the throttle body and the far end of the intake manifold. I am willing to bet that they were never touched before because of not having scratch marks from removing the spring clamps from the connectors (I wanted to say nipple, he he). So when I did they all have slow drips. Same thing happened to the hose when I flushed the radiator.

    Also the AFC NEO was installed, but not used until turbo was installed. I intentionally wanted to get the car tuned via ECU, and use the AFC for fine tuning AFR under boost which is also adjustable.

  3. #3
    Phase 3 was ignition control and feedback device installation. The Turbo XS knock light and knock sensor installation was necessary, being that no knock detection system was installed from the factory on the 4G64. High and Low Octane fuel maps are activated using throttle position than the traditional knock count.

    APEX’i ITC – (Ignition Timing Converter) installation. The Super ITC adjusts ignition timing by +/- 15% by modifying the crank/cam angle signal on certain vehicles. The timing curve is adjusted by setting the timing at 5 different points along the RPM range and the values between are interpolated by the ITC from those 5 points. The Super ITC used in conjunction with the Super AFC fuel controller creates a new dimension of tuning with piggyback computers.



    APEX’i AVC (actuator valve controller/digital boost controller) installed.


    APEX’i AFC NEO (air/fuel converter) installed. Also PLX Wideband Digital AFR Gauge and Digital/Programmable gauge.


    Oil Cooler installation. I’m sure we all seen oil advertisements about “viscosity break-down”. Oil can become a volatile substance at high temperatures, enough to eat away at gaskets, O-Rings along with heat damage. Well I do not want any kind of breakdown so I installed coolers for everything.
    Oil filter re-locator.


    Oil cooler mounted in cage that I welded to the frame. Yes! I will be painting it (the welds) when the engine is pulled in the next week or so.


    Behind the mod-ed grill.


    Oil filter re-locator with filter attached, along with another ugly weld picture. Sensor mounts are on the top and will be connected after rebuild. I will be running all sensor wires through the factory wire bung.


    This is where the oil filter used to be, but now there are two lines, in/out. It is important to follow the line to make sure that the line coming out of the middle gets connected to the middle of the re-locator unit.



    Power steering cooler and transmission cooler install.




    Air/Air Intercooler mounting.


    Turbo Oil Return Line fitting installation.


    Shot of the oil pick-up filter/tube, crank and lower con-rod.




    Engine bay pictures.








    Exhaust replacement, 2 ½ inch piping with Megan Carbon Fiber Muffler.







    ECU Tuning modifications;

    N/A Tuning.


    Current Turbo Mapping.


    ECU Flash User Manual link.
    http://forums.openecu.org/viewtopic.php?t=1190

    ECU Flash definition files.
    http://forums.openecu.org/viewtopic.php?t=925


    Electronics installation and tuning;


    All of the APEX’i electronics, fuel system and other monitoring devices are powered off of a high amperage relay and triggered off the ECU’s power signal. All of the devices share the same ground and have a ground lead connected directly to the battery to be certain of proper circuit. Sorry that not all items were documented using photography.

    Pin-outs and ECU descriptions for APEX’i AFC NEO.




    Installation instructions for APEX’i ITC.








    Installation instructions for Turbo XS Knock light and knock sensor. The knock sensor is installed in the factory location. There are 2 wires one red, one black. The red gets hooked up to a 12v+ ignition on source, while the ground is the lead that is the "Knock Signal Wire". As knock is detected, the voltage will spike and complete a circuit. The Knock Light then recognizes the signal and generates a pulse depending on base programming.




    Settings on APEX’i gear.
    AFC NEO








    AVC



    ITC





    I have a large interest in sharing information particularly if it keeps you and me from blowing up our G's. If anyone would like any publications, shop manuals, programs or referances from/for anything, let me know...
    Last edited by mtcavity1; 04-23-2008 at 11:39 PM

  4. #4
    Nice.
    1997 Volvo 850 T5

  5. #5
    Looking good Kory. Now stop being so busy at work so we can finally get started on the rest of the things you have sitting around.


    222whp/250wtq

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by laxinwarrior View Post
    Looking good Kory. Now stop being so busy at work so we can finally get started on the rest of the things you have sitting around.
    Yep, just have to fix the MAF-T, get 550cc/min injectors, get more U-bends (uses all the stock on the exhaust install), make support brackets for the manifold and down-pipe, let alone make the downpipe. After I pay the IRS 1000 sheckles...

    Probably next month, so be ready! Hopefully I can intall the 5 speed then to! :D

  7. #7
    Senior Moderator mrjaydeeone's Avatar
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    looks good Kory. Nice work
    Jason - - cofounder of TGCNY
    click banner to enter the NY Chapter

    2001 Galant ES
    2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition

  8. #8
    Experienced TGC Member run1206's Avatar
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    Great work Kory! glad to see you're moving up to the 16G from the "ebay" turbo.

    i'm wondering how you got the tranny and PS cooler to sit on the radiator like that, any welding done to that?

    02 Mit. Galant 5 Spd -> 2010 Mit. Lancer Sportback 5 Spd -> (current) 2014 Mit Evo GSR 5 Spd
    run1206's Rear Disc Tutorial
    run1206's CF Hood Resurface Tutorial

  9. #9
    Thanks Jay.

    Drew, the hardware is sent with the coolers. They are the round plastic supports like zip-ties, where one fits into the other and mounts through the radiator. There are rubber spacers that seperate the coolant radiator from the PS/Oil/Tranny cooler radiator.

  10. #10
    Experienced TGC Member run1206's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtcavity1 View Post
    Thanks Jay.

    Drew, the hardware is sent with the coolers. They are the round plastic supports like zip-ties, where one fits into the other and mounts through the radiator. There are rubber spacers that seperate the coolant radiator from the PS/Oil/Tranny cooler radiator.
    pretty clever :idea: , i didn't get any mounts to come with my tranny cooler :(
    eh..i'll figure out something. :)

    02 Mit. Galant 5 Spd -> 2010 Mit. Lancer Sportback 5 Spd -> (current) 2014 Mit Evo GSR 5 Spd
    run1206's Rear Disc Tutorial
    run1206's CF Hood Resurface Tutorial

  11. #11
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Stewi's Avatar
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    Very nice.
    Quote Originally Posted by qnz
    well there are talkers and there are do'ers. talkers never do. and do'ers never talk
    99' Galant ES
    4G64/63T
    AEM EMS

  12. #12
    Senior TGC Member underated's Avatar
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    hey MTCavity its Brandon for openecu.org i was wondering how you wired up the knock sensor? i need to put one in... this topic is great and very detailed i'm really looking forward to the updates
    Brandon - 2001 Galant GST 5speed
    Wiseco // Eagle // PTE // Holset // Turbonetics // Supertech // Blox // Prosport // Vibrant // Innovate // OpenEcu // Mishimoto // Magnaflow // Walbro // XXR // Rotora // Brembo // Hawk // R1 Concepts // Dc Sports


  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by run1206 View Post
    pretty clever :idea: , i didn't get any mounts to come with my tranny cooler :(
    eh..i'll figure out something. :)
    I made them out of steel stock (random shapes like tubes and flat stock), and is what I am using to do yours. I even have silicone grommets to softly support the oil cooler radiator.


    Stewi, coming from you, I am flattered... :oops:

    Your set-up is top notch equipment! I look at your thread before I go to bed at night! TMI alert!!!

    Thank you...

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by underated View Post
    hey MTCavity its Brandon for openecu.org i was wondering how you wired up the knock sensor? i need to put one in... this topic is great and very detailed i'm really looking forward to the updates
    I'll update the thread later tonight with the knock sensor installation instructions, along with all other electronics I am currently running.

  15. #15
    I can't even begin to tell you how freakin amazing this thread is... Mt you are unbelievably good at what you do! Everything is awesome, how much power are you sittin on??

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Rallikid04 View Post
    I can't even begin to tell you how freakin amazing this thread is... Mt you are unbelievably good at what you do! Everything is awesome, how much power are you sittin on??
    Seriously, I am one of the least educated here and only have 2 years under my belt in turbocharging/tuning.

    Now Goosey, Seth, Laxinwarrior, Stewi, Johnathansgalant, DOHCstuner, warmandSCSI, Icedoutgalant, and about a dozen other fellas on TGC are seasoned tuners.They know more about the potential of a Mitsubishi then Mitsubishi does!

    Thanks for the comment though but if it were not for all the guys here doing all the technical studies, I'd still be stock.

    I am going to say that I am under 200HP untill I get a dyno, new injectors will allow me to turn the boost up. I will probably not dyno untill I get the HRC turbo on...

  17. #17
    Experienced TGC Member dwjp90's Avatar
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    I Didn't see coke on the parts list. is this necessary for the build? will mountain dew work as a substitute?

    all joking aside very good job it looks race quality

  18. #18
    Moderator mko's Avatar
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    Damn bro, I have the samr turbo as yours, but my wastegate flapper isnt blocked

    Looking good.
    God created turbo lag to give the v8's a brief moment of hope.



    Build Thread

  19. #19
    I Didn't see coke on the parts list. is this necessary for the build? will mountain dew work as a substitute?

    Yes sir! Any form of caffene is a MUST... (I learned that from Goosey)
    If you do not smoke cigaretts, DONT START!

    Thanks for the comment bro, but I was the slowest boosted G at the last TGC meet... Check out Goosey's threads, or do a search of his posts. It is worth the reading...



    "Damn bro, I have the same turbo as yours, but my wastegate flapper isnt blocked"...

    The flapper is in there, they (HRC) redesigned the waste-gate port. It is supposed to have absolutly no boost creep so Hahn Racecraft must know something.

    Did you know that Joe (laxenwarrior) gave me this turbo? Hell of a guy right...

    I am PM-ing you my cell phone # and hope you would do the same. We can get together next time Drew, Joe and me get meet up. We need some Russan talent around to roll with the TGCNY crew!

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by mtcavity1 View Post
    We need some Russan talent around to roll with the TGCNY crew!
    Da!


    222whp/250wtq

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