hey brian, I got that EXACT same problem with my TEIN SS Coilovers, i snapped 2 stab links cuz of that
Ok guys I was recently informed in another thread that people who install megan racing coilovers have a problem with breaking stabilizer end links. So I figured, how can this be? When I had Tein's in my car everything fit right, so whats the deal with megans? It was then announced by a few members that the tab that the stabilizer link goes into was welded on to the strut at an angle different than stock which put alot of stress on the stabilizer link, causing it to break. With that being said, I figured, OK I will do some homework on this because I bought megans but didnt install them yet. So today was D-Day, I went to install the megans and this is what I found. Not only is the tab welded at the wrong angle, but the tab is also at the wrong height, at least on mine it is. If you are looking at the strut, picture it like this, there are the two large bolt holes where the strut mounts to the knuckle, if you measure from the top bolt hole to the bolt hole where the stabilizer link goes on the megan and make the same measurement on a stock strut, there is roughly 3/4" less distance on the megan. This is a problem because now once the links are attached, it forces the stabilizer bar down and the stabilizer bar rests on the lower control arm. Maybe it is a little more pronounced for me since im using a RMDSM front stabilizer bar, but that bare is only a millimeter or two larger than stock, so the bar aint making it like this. I have contacted megan racing about this and I am waiting on a response. If you have megan coilovers can you try and get a pic of the lower control arm and the stabilizer bar and see the clearance (or lack there of?)
Here are some pics I took for reference. I hope for everyones sake that only I got the shoddy ones and not everyone has the problem.
99' Galant ESOriginally Posted by qnz
4G64/63T
AEM EMS
hey brian, I got that EXACT same problem with my TEIN SS Coilovers, i snapped 2 stab links cuz of that
Yep, pain in the F'n ass. I won't even drive my car now until I get the same after market links that Ivory8G is using. Guess it worked out for him. I'll confirm in a couple days.
www.RockAuto.com
The model numbers are
MK7431
MK7430
They have very strong silicone ends and are metal (3x thicker than stock) so they wont just snap at the ends like the plastic OEM crap. The ends are also extremely adjustable so that it can fit straight at any pretty much any angle. I have the megans and put these on and haven't had a problem since and I hauled ASS around as many corners as I could. I even went to the mountains today and set them to the hardest front and back and just had a ball. Came home and checked them and 100% intact and still torqued to spec.
The "Tumbler" Is HereStock Longblock/Stock PCM | Custom Garrett 50-1 | 17 Psi | Weighing 2xxxLbs3xxWHP/3xxWTQ [Current]
Same problem with my Megans... busted both of my front endlinks during installation. I have those aftermarket links up front and I doubt they'll ever snap.
They can be seen here: http://www.galantforums.com/modules....&p=47125#47125
i noticed while installing those that it didnt fit straight in and i had to force it in and since i had them everytime i go over uneven roads i get this rattle on my driver side and i havent figured it out and this might be the problem im ordering a set tomorrow and hopefully ill have them sunday since im gonna work on the car all day
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
'01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
'02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
'88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
'91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
'95 Kawasaki ZX9R
Last edited by spdracr; 05-12-2008 at 10:47 PM
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
'01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
'02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
'88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
'91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
'95 Kawasaki ZX9R
I dont think you guys quite understand my problem...
I know about the end link problem with the angle and what not, what im saying is, YES i have that problem, BUT I also have another problem, the actual part that the end link bolts to on the coilover is in the wrong place, like its not high enough, forget about angle, I already know thats wrong. Its 1/2" too low, too low to the point where I cant steer because when I turn the wheel the stabilizer link and bar jambs up on the lower control arm and it doesnt allow the strut/knuckle to turn.
99' Galant ESOriginally Posted by qnz
4G64/63T
AEM EMS
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
'01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
'02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
'88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
'91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
'95 Kawasaki ZX9R
Interesting because those were the part numbers that were on the invoice and when I looked up the part through their catalog, but now its not coming up lool. only if you do a search by model #. they werent 2 different prices when I bought them, maybe they are doing inventory? lol
15 rear and 0 on the front currently and it feels good to me, not too bumpy and handles like its on rails. but when the fiance is riding with me I set it to 32 up front and 15 rear(since its a pain to get to the rear to adjust).
Whoa what the hell? o_O I never had that problem? Huh so you had the coilover on and you couldnt turn without the link and the bar clashing?
The "Tumbler" Is HereStock Longblock/Stock PCM | Custom Garrett 50-1 | 17 Psi | Weighing 2xxxLbs3xxWHP/3xxWTQ [Current]
Correct, I was only able to turn if I disconnected the link from the strut.
99' Galant ESOriginally Posted by qnz
4G64/63T
AEM EMS
wow yeah I never had that problem, hmmm with something like that I would prolly blow up on megan. that is a huge defect!
The "Tumbler" Is HereStock Longblock/Stock PCM | Custom Garrett 50-1 | 17 Psi | Weighing 2xxxLbs3xxWHP/3xxWTQ [Current]
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