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Reply With QuoteHmmmmmm I really dunno. My car did the exact same when I left my intake off the car but that's about all I can come up with. No idea guy.
well for the past few days my car has been stalling at idle. It used to take about 45 minutes of driving before this became a problem but now it seems to happen after about 2 minutes of driving from a cold start. So I called RIPP today and they told me to turn up the idle screw. So when I went to go do that I hear a huge amount of air (like air leaking). Now i have the SDS and i have heard many times what it should sound like and this is not one of them. Under normal driving conditions that car drives fine, but when I stop and come to idle the car starts to putter and if i dont give it gas it then stalls. after having it run for a few minutes at idle, and pushing the TB so it didnt stall, i shut the car off and a SES light came on that was P300, multiple cylinder misfire (this is also new). So i checked all the vacuum lines and from what it seems everything is connected, and I cant isolate where the air sound is coming from. and so everyone knows it is not the sound from the blower. it sounds like a seal or something but i really cant tell where it is coming from.
any info would be helpful. thanks
Hmmmmmm I really dunno. My car did the exact same when I left my intake off the car but that's about all I can come up with. No idea guy.
"Daisy tumbled short of his dreams, not through her own fault, but because of the colossal vitality of his illusion... No amount of fire or freshness can challenge what a man will store up in his ghostly heart. " - F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Great Gatsby
"I have not failed 700 times. I have not failed once. I have succeeded in proving that those 700 ways will not work. When I have eliminated the ways that will not work, I will find the way that will work." - Thomas Edison
I read on a previous post here that the P300 code can be triggered if there is excess fuel in the cylinders. The injectors pulse as soon as the key is turned on, so that may be the reason for the misfire code. I also read on here that you should NEVER change the position of the idle screw. I believe that tip came from manybrews.
Chip
Chip
2000 Basalt Black Metallic GTZ
(Paint Code: Porsche LC9Z)
Genuine experience carries a lot more credibility than the ability to answer a question.
Take it back to RIPP if you can and get them to take a look
yeah the car was schelduled this weekend to have the BB installed anyways, I just wanna make sure that I can get there. It is about an 80 mile hike through NYC traffic. It seems to be fine under normal driving, it is just at idle that it runs funny and wants to stall.
The code I hope isnt a big deal. I have thrown a misfire code before when I had the key in the on position for some time while cleaning my car.
Yeah you don't want to touch that screw. Let me find that thread and it will tell you why. My brother in law did the same thing by touching that screw and his Eclipse keeped dying everytime he would stop. He had to take it in and get it all reset.
Jason
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Jason
thanks for the tips guys. i was just going by what RIPP told me. also keep in mind that my car runs a little different now that I am FI. FYI, turning that screw with my car in its current condition, didnt do shit. There is a major leak somewheres that I cant find.
Suggested by RIPP: take some throttle body cleaner, and spray around all the vacuum lines and fuel lines and listen for a change in the engine at idle. I am going to do this tonight except no the fuel lines, cause if i was leaking fuel, i would see puddles under my car, which i dont.
well i found the leak but i dont know what the hell this part is called. If you are looking at the throttle body from the front of the car, it is a PLASTIC cap with one screw holding it to the throttle body. This part is pushed out from the throttle body and this is def. where my leak is. I actually just talked to Mitsu and they told me that this piece is the idle speed controller and it has 3 screws, not 1, and has an oring holding it in. This is where my leak is. Well i cant get an appt until next week but i have to bring the car to RIPP on saturday, so what the hell am i going to do. does anyone have any suggestions on how i can fix this.
well after hours of frustration of not being able to reach this vavle, i decided to take all the intake tubing off and remove the Throttle body. i cant believe how easy that thing came off. there was only 4 bolts holding it to the plenum, but a bunch of vacuum lines. I didnt remove any of the lines, i just took the bolts off and positioned the TB where i could get to this valve.
well after i took this thing out, it has a spring attached to it, with some plastic pieces on it. one of the pieces actually came apart while i was removing it and i was like "OOOOHHH SHIT" so i picked up the pieces and it was a plastic washer that is supposed to come apart. So know i was puzzled as to where this piece went. so i looked in this hole in the TB to see if i could figure out how this thing is orientated. so after about 20 minutes of thinking, i put this piece back in, screwed it and everything fine so far. put the TB back and all the intake tubing and gave it a start.
i started it, let it run for about 5 minutes (nothing seemed wrong) then i drove it up the street and nothing wrong.
so...knock on wood...i think i fixed the problem.
car idles fine and car runs good.
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