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1997 Mitsubishi Galant DEon the firewall, passenger side
wheres the proportioning valve located?
on the firewall, passenger side
"DSM's, making people mechanics since 1985"
Originally Posted by polishmafia
well i went to the mitsu junk yard today, found an eclipse that fit the specs, and didn't have ABS for sure. after pointing to the part for about 5 minutes the junk yard douchebags finally figured out what i needed (because pointing at it wasn't helpful enough) and wanted to charge me $55 for it. they said it would take a long time to remove and didn't want to cut their hands...
gonna order one brand new for $60, will update
There isn't any salvage yards that will allow you to pick the parts off the car yourself?
1991 Galant VR4 1948/2000_________1996 Galant "S" 5 speed 2.4L turbo
FYI, the part number is MB895931.
what's interesting is that caps lists the same part # for RS/GS eclipses with rear DRUMS! EDITx3: I think the Galant GS is the ONLY 7G/equivalent that has a mismatching proportioning valve. everythign i've plugged into caps says the 7G shares the same proportioning valves as the RS, GS, GST, GSX, ABS or noABS, doesn't matter. pretty much any 2g at this point....except the god damn 7G GS.
also, not all GSXs came with ABS. i crossreferencd a few GSX VINs in caps and some didn't have abs. EDIT: Doh! i think the abs modulator is just in a different position. EDITx2: yeah 2G puts the modulator behind the driver-side headlight, 7G GS puts it right next to the proportioning valve.
nah, this one buys all the mitsus in town from the other yards (for the most part) and they have mitsus stacked on top of each other for as far as the eye can see. i've been there 5 times now and always ask to pull the part myself and they panic and start scraeming insurance over and over.i understand their point of view, but they love to rip myself and others off for money. $55 for that tiny little valve? sheesh
i told him its $60 brand new from the dealership but their engrish nut so goood. they originally wanted $100 per pedal when i went there to snag kimya's 5spd brake and clutch pedals, $200 for both!?!?! i talked them down to $100 total but they didn't like it.
Last edited by peanotation; 07-10-2008 at 12:02 AM
Damn thats pure bs. I have a junkyard near me that acts like they have
top secret ferrari cars in their yard when I ask to pull myself or help the guy
instead of me come back in 2 hours for a f'n overpriced single sway bar bracket.
Anywho, keep us updated Peano.
At MOD '08 I bumped into a mechanic friend that Kimya introduced me to a while ago, and brought up this topic over the free carl's jr. His assistant mentioned an "adjustable"(!!) brake proportioning valve. Genius! Or so I thought.... I've doing some reading on DSMTuners and from the sound of it, it's a little more complex than i want it/it needs to be. It's too easy to screw up the balance and the last thing I want is the rear wheels locking through a hard turn and then bye bye galant. Anyways:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...lve/index.html
This explains the unbalancing after the conversion. Calipers require more pressure, thus the fronts are doing more work than they should be. We all knew this, but there's the explanation as to why.Drum brakes benefit from something called self-energizing action where the leading shoe uses the rotating drum to help push the larger trailing shoe into the drum with additional force, requiring less hydraulic pressure to apply the brakes.
As exciting as an adjustable proportioning valve would be, I think it's better off to just grab the 2G one.....
split points for proportioning valve ^^ too bad no 2g data available :(
Last edited by peanotation; 08-04-2008 at 10:48 AM
time to dawn the pink camoflauge jumpsuit w/ external cod-piece.
break into the yard at night....
take a simple pair of 2$ wire snips, and clip the 4 lines about an inch from the valve. right through the steel lines.... not like anyone needs them.
then unbolt the fucker and leave...
might want to leave some sort of hateful message on the door to their office. written in poo.
______________________________
1994 Galant GS-Turbo
lol i would, believe me, i would love to break in there at night and "borrow" the valve, but there's more barbed wire on the fence at that place than around my ex girlfriend's crotch. it's a shame, cause they LITERALLY have close to 500 mitsus there. mostly 2G RS/GSs, all the turbo 2 and 1Gs are prett much skeletons.
ordered the valve, oem brand new, from mitsubishi. $70 shipped to my door. can't wait to try it out, my only fear is taht the threads don't match, but i will post back asap when i try it out
and the journey continues!
problem #1
2G proportioning valve
the stock 7G (with rear drums) valve is the same as above, EXCEPT ports 5 and 6 are on the front of the valve, facing the nose of the car. the only solution would be to reroute the lines to the sides as necessary, but i'm not 100% the flow path is the same. before doing so, i need someone with a 2g (i PMed proto) to confirm where each port goes to. if they're all the same then i can re-bend the brake lines accordingly or replumb them.
does anyone know what thread type/pitch the hard brake lines are at the proportioning valve? a safer alternative is to make an adapter instead of bending the lines (and risk crimping them) but it'd like to throw on some 90* adapters if i can. help me make this into reality!
Last edited by peanotation; 08-18-2008 at 11:41 AM
Don't know if this helps or not but:
How about a valve from a 91 Galant VR4 without ABS. It looks similar, but for some reason the ports facing the front of the car are plugged; the abs cars are not plugged ??? Again, not sure about any of this; just throwing it out there in case there is something to it.
http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/...page=0&fpart=1
eh maybe, i think the front ports on my proportioning valve goto the front brakes? i can't remember for sure...maybe the routing is different for different cars
for a 2G:
#1 - rear
#2 - rear
#3 - front passenger
#4 - front driver
#5 - master cylinder (front)
#6 - master cylinder (front)
turns out, the 7G valve is the same setup, except the front ports are running to the master cylinder, while #5 and #6 are plugged. picked up 2 lines, flare wrench, some more DOT3 and a pipe bender for the lines, going to friend's house right now, hopefully will have good news tonight!
SUCCESS. I had to custom bend and re-route 2 new hardlines from the master cylinder to the valve, and they're not bolted down with anything, but it works and isn't too ugly. the pedal is slightly softer now, but still really strong. less pressure stops the car faster for sure. i went on some on-ramps last night and got the rears to lock up, so SUCCESS. i highly recommend doing this so your brakes are safely balanced again. too much front bias is baaaad.
crappy "power tool" flare wrench. it started bending open and cracking while trying to take off one of the master cylinder lines. don't buy this crap, almost screwed up the whole thing. spend the money for a good flare wrench.
7G oem valve:
done
if you've done the rear disc swap, you gotta do this. spend the extra couple bucks on hard brake line and a pipe bender, and get a nice flare wrench.
That's a nice clean job you did there, Peano.
So, since you've been driving around for over a month with this set-up, can you post a review? I am curious as to your overall opinion of the brake balance with the new proportioning valve.
This is why I love this site. Four months ago it seemed as though there was no solution, and now Matt has a PROPERLY functioning full disc brake system. Some of you are pioneers and your exploration into the unknown makes the rest of our lives a little easier with the discoveries that you make. Thanks.
Very cool Penao, so where did you get the pipe bender and extra hard lines?
---||| 97Galant, E3 16G, Safc, 5spd,Drifter Body |||---
pep boys. you need to get a pro-grade flare wrench, as the one i bought from pep boys started cracking and breaking down towards the end of the night. the last couple times i had to use vicegrips and mangle up the ends of the bolts...ugh
review and updated tutorial to follow in couple days. 4 discs FTW!!!
The 7g LS also came with 4-wheel-disc brakes. I'm not sure if ABS was standard or optional though. If it was just optional, then there's a part number out there for what you need to avoid fabing it yourself.
I know it's a bit late to help, but maybe it'll be useful to someone.
-Well that never happened in the simulations.
-'94 Galant GS Turbo
I wonder if the VR-4 rear disc is the same. Can you tell me if your rear brake rotors are solid or ventilated? Coz the VR4 ones were ventilated (heh even better than the EC5A VR4 which came with solid rear discs, my friends say) so I may or may not be able to get replacement rotors here.....
can someone confirm?
edit: don't worry I can see it in the pictures on socallifestyle they are solid discs..... I wonder if my local Mitsu dealer can haul in some proper rotors for me...
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