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  1. #1
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    my a/c problem

    well i never use the a/c cuz i personall just dont like it. i drive with windows open but just yesterday i turned it on and my car just died on me. i thought i ran out if gas or something cuz it was way low so i refueled and the same thing. and i let ir sit for a while and now when i turn it on the car vibrates and like the revolutions goes up and down by just one. any clue on what it is? this is all when im in park by the way.

  2. #2
    What happens when you are out of park, or at idle out of park?

    And is the RPMs going up and down when the a/c is on or off?

  3. #3
    You should perhaps try closing the air/fuel mixture screw on the Throttle Body a tad. I think thats what it is. It might be sucking too much air and causing the G to die out. Give that a shot and let me know what happens. Thats what happened to me and it seemed to help.

  4. #4
    TGC Regular youngin3's Avatar
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    Your compressor might be locked up. Have someone enable the A/C when the car is parked and watch the belt that the compressor is on. If the compressor stops, then you've got issues.

  5. #5
    Official TGC Pop-Pop Fishboy55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frankv View Post
    You should perhaps try closing the air/fuel mixture screw on the Throttle Body a tad. I think thats what it is. It might be sucking too much air and causing the G to die out. Give that a shot and let me know what happens. Thats what happened to me and it seemed to help.
    To the OP, No matter what's wrong with your car, leave the screw on the TB alone. That's the throttle bypass screw, not the air/fuel mixture screw. It's set at the factory and shouldn't be arbitrarily turned without knowing what you're doing.

    It sounds like either your AC compressor is locked up or you may have a vacuum leak which could show the same symptoms.

    FrankV - That screw you're turning is used to adjust the engine idle when it's hot. It allows extra air to bypass the TB when the engine is cold. It doesn't adjust the air/fuel ratio at all.
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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Fishboy55 View Post
    To the OP, No matter what's wrong with your car, leave the screw on the TB alone. That's the throttle bypass screw, not the air/fuel mixture screw. It's set at the factory and shouldn't be arbitrarily turned without knowing what you're doing.

    It sounds like either your AC compressor is locked up or you may have a vacuum leak which could show the same symptoms.

    FrankV - That screw you're turning is used to adjust the engine idle when it's hot. It allows extra air to bypass the TB when the engine is cold. It doesn't adjust the air/fuel ratio at all.
    Thanks fishboy55! It wassss set on mine to factory specs but not ne more lol my cars runnin like a champ though. when it was set to factory specs, on cold mornings my car would rattle like a mutha @ first start but my mechanic adjusted it when he was doing my timing and eversince then, i havent encountered this noise. but thanks once more man.

  7. #7
    You are here entirely tooo much!!
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    well actually i was driving tonight and i was thinking hmmm i wonder . . . . and i was going like 40 and turned a/c on full blast and it worked fine. but when its on park or stationary the whole car vibrates and revs from like 1 - 2.5 ish on the RPM's

  8. #8
    Official TGC Pop-Pop Fishboy55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by E_Emerson88 View Post
    well actually i was driving tonight and i was thinking hmmm i wonder . . . . and i was going like 40 and turned a/c on full blast and it worked fine. but when its on park or stationary the whole car vibrates and revs from like 1 - 2.5 ish on the RPM's
    When you say it worked fine, I'm assuming you mean you got cold air, not just ambient temperature air. If that's true then your compressor isn't locked up. You may just need to adjust your idle speed.

    There's a cable that's attached to a small metal plate on your firewall in about the middle of the engine. The cable runs to your TB. If you loosen the screws on the plate a little, you can move it to make the cable tighter and increase your idle speed.

    Two warnings before you start this: 1) the bolts in the plate strip/break very easily. Be careful, because if you break them you're pretty much screwed, and 2) you need to do this adjustment with your engine running so take adequate precautions so you don't hurt yourself. You only want to increase the idle speed slightly, so don't pull the cable so far that your engine is racing at 2000 RPM when it's idling. Your target is an idle speed of about 750 RPM.

    I'm sure there's a tutorial with pictured here somewhere. Search on throttle cable and see what comes up. Good luck. It's an easy adjustment, just be careful what you're doing.
    Chip

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  9. #9
    TGC Regular youngin3's Avatar
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    I thought the ECM controlled the idle? I know that when I disconnect my battery, my car has to relearn idle after it gets power again. It idles rough for a while afterwards...

  10. #10
    Official TGC Pop-Pop Fishboy55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lavie2k9 View Post
    I thought the ECM controlled the idle? I know that when I disconnect my battery, my car has to relearn idle after it gets power again. It idles rough for a while afterwards...
    The ECM controls the fuel/air mixture. Your car isn't relearning to idle, it's relearning to breath and trying to return to its preset air/fuel maps.

    The engine idle speed can be adjusted by the throttle cable adjustment I explained above.
    Chip

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  11. #11
    You are here entirely tooo much!!
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    well guys i went to dealership cuz before they fixed my intake manifold it was working perfectly and now that i got it back it was messed up. well they fixed it and its too complicated what happened and they explained and i got lost lol. but thanx guys

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