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Thread: 4g64/63T Project Update (w/pics)

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  1. #1

    4g64/63T Project Update (w/pics)

    This project has been a long time in the making. I haven't been on the board for a while; in fact, the car has been parked for almost two years and I haven't done any work on it since then. Life got in the way and the Galant got put on the back burner; I bought a new home, got married, went out of state for three months, and got real busy with work; but now I am all settled and ready to dedicate some time and money to finally finish the galant project. It wasn't until recently that I pulled all the parts and motor out of storage and I finally got the car out of my Dad's driveway. It is now sitting in my garage waiting for me to tear it down and rebuild it.

    The block is a 4g64, bored .020 over with Ross 8.5:1 pistons, Crower rods, ARP main studs, removed balance shafts, and fully balanced rotating assembly. The head is a 4g63 DOHC 1g, with a five angle valve job, stock cams, 4g64 GS cam gears, ARP head studs, and full gasket matched port job. The transmission needs to be rebuilt but the clutch is an ACT 2100 with lightened flywheel. The ecu is an eprom ecu from a 93 AWD turbo Talon, socketed and fitted with a Keydriver chip, and using connectors and plugs taken from wiring harnesses from a 1g 4g63t, 1g 4g63 N/T, and two 7g 4g64 to make it all work. The injectors are Denso 660's in a stock 1g fuel rail with an Aeromotive FPR, fueled by a Walbro 255 fuel pump and a SAFC. Also have a fully ported cyclone intake mani, ported 2g exhaust mani, ported Evo o2 housing, 2g Dejon intake pipe, FMIC with 2 1/2" hard piping, lightened underdrive pulleys, full 3" custom turbo-back exhaust, and unknown brand blow-off valve. I am planning on using an Evo 16g which I haven't purchased yet controlled by an AVCR which I do have.

    The suspension is currently stock but I have and will install Eibach pro-kit springs, KYB AGX shocks, Energy suspension complete bushing kit, Ingalls front and rear camber adjustment kit, and front and rear strut braces.

    The exterior has an E-Racing body kit molded on, tinted windows, 18" Motegi rims, JDM cleared headlights, PIAA 6" driving lights (not currently installed), and shaved door handles, door moldings, and emblems. The interior has a decent sound system, relocated A/C controls, flush mounted gauges, flush mounted SAFC, and flush mounted AVCR. I have visor monitors but I don't know whether or not to install them.

    I have several throttle bodies, coil packs, transitors, cam angle sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housings, etc. that I collected a while ago; unfortunetly (since it has been such a long time since I puchased them or researched this project) I don't know what model year they are from or which ones I am supposed to be using for my set-up. I'm going to have to research so I can refresh my memory on the technical info for the swap.

    I have not started any work on the galant since I got the car and parts into my garage; in fact, I haven't even cleaned the car (it's nasty after sitting for two years). As soon as I run an A/C duct to the garage I will start working on the Galant (it's hot as hell here in Florida). I will keep this thread updated through out the process.

    This message board has been a great help to me in the past and will continue to be my guide as I work towards finishing up the Galant. I would like to thank all of you who contribute to this site, I appreciate all the information that is shared on here.

    The plan is as follows:

    Interior; pull the dash, seats, carpet, ecu, A/C, radio, speakers, etc.
    Motor; pull the motor, trans, wiring harness, etc.
    Motor; clean and paint engine bay
    Wiring; fabricate and install new wiring harness and ecu
    Wiring; wire in gauges, AVCR, SAFC, stereo, mirrors, and driving lights
    Wiring; wire in and install fuel pump
    Trans; send out transmission to be rebuilt
    Motor; finish building with timing belt, spark plugs, wires, etc.
    Motor; install motor, wire in sensors, install tranny
    Motor; install oil cooler
    Motor; install turbo, exhaust, intake, FMIC and piping
    Seats; have seats reupholstered and install
    Interior; repair/adjust door handle kit, install power mirrors
    Interior; install subwoofer and amp, install visor monitors ???
    Interior; paint interior panels, dash, trim
    Interior; install interior panels and new carpet
    Interior; replace steering wheel ???
    Interior; install sealed battery box in trunk (wiring already in place)
    Suspension; install bushings, springs, Ingalls kit, struts, and braces
    Brakes; install rear disc brakes, new rotors in front, and new pads
    Suspension; send out for alignment
    Exterior; remove wheels and tires, send out to be powder coated
    Exterior; install sunroof ???
    Exterior; send out to body shop for body work and paint
    Exterior; replace rubber moldings and weather strip


    Parts I still need:

    Evo 16g turbo ???
    oil return line and feed line
    rear brake parts
    front rotors
    timing cover (middle piece)
    ignition wire set, spark plugs
    subwoofer, amp
    power mirrors and wiring
    wideband o2
    steering wheel and hub adapter ???
    battery box
    carpet


    Pictures are attached (keep in mind the car has been sitting for a long time and still hasn't even been cleaned yet





















































    Last edited by StreetDreams; 08-29-2008 at 12:16 AM

  2. #2
    TGC Regular bmore303's Avatar
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    03-11-2007
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    Welcome back and good luck with your swap :) . I'm just a few weeks from attempting to turn the key on mine .


    BTW here's a sale on oil feedlines that fit 14b/16g turbos.

    Edit- forgot the link lol http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/vend...line-sale.html
    Last edited by bmore303; 08-29-2008 at 08:33 AM
    RIP
    1995 7G 4G64 / 63T DOHC Turbo
    Part Out Coming Soon

    In search of 2G 3000GT VR4

    Daily driving
    Dat '08 Cobalt Coupe

  3. #3
    welcome back man. got alot going for the car. as bmore i'm almost done a 63T swap in my cuz's GS. then i start my own

    "DSM's, making people mechanics since 1985"
    Quote Originally Posted by polishmafia
    You want real respect from those fools? Don't race him. Tell him racing is a sport left to young boys who are still waiting for their balls to drop. Then while he's out racing, fuck his girlfriend in the ass, take pics, and leave them on his car while hes at school.

  4. #4
    You are here entirely tooo much!! seth98esT's Avatar
    Join Date
    08-01-2002
    Location
    Keokuk, IA
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    8,348
    Nice garage man. I remember that car and your HVAC relocation! Welcome back, you have some work ahead of you :)
    7g for life!

  5. #5
    I removed the front bumper, lights, radiator, fans, and started clearing parts out of the engine bay.

    I should have the motor and trans out by the end of the week.






  6. #6
    Nice progress, can't wait to see it done.
    OZ Rally Crew #001, Quaife Club member :D

  7. #7
    Senior TGC Member lonestar22's Avatar
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    i dont see how the cables work from right there.
    RIP GALANT, GOOD MORNING BMW 330i

    330i ZSP (E90) - S4 (B5) / hellaflush

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by lonestar22 View Post
    i dont see how the cables work from right there.
    ???

  9. #9
    The engine has been sitting for a long time; although it was covered in plastic, surface rust has formed on the gears and mating surfaces. What should I use to clean this up?


  10. #10
    I got the motor and transmission out of the car today. The next step is to clean everything and start transferring parts from the old motor to the new one. Also, I need to clean up the engine bay.













    I have a few questions; hopefully you guys can help me out:

    1.) I am having problems removing the driver side axle; it seems to be seized into the hub. Is there a trick of the trade that I can try to remove this?

    2.) The Haynes Repair Manual says that if the car is to be moved with the axles out, a through bolt with two large washers (one on each side of the hub) should be installed and tightened securely. Is this absolutely necessary? I just need to move the car a few feet into the driveway to clean and degrease the engine bay and then roll it back into the garage?

    3.) I would like to remove the emission controls from the engine bay. I will be using a 1g ecu, so if I remove the solenoids on the firewall will I still get a CEL? Will there be any ill effects? Is it okay to remove these?:





    Thanks for the help fellas!

  11. #11
    i have my cuz gs with no axles and we roll that bitch around all the time. but you need to remove them from the hubs and just sit them on the floor.

    use pb blaster and tap the end with a flat head screwdriver ( a thich one) and a hammer

    "DSM's, making people mechanics since 1985"
    Quote Originally Posted by polishmafia
    You want real respect from those fools? Don't race him. Tell him racing is a sport left to young boys who are still waiting for their balls to drop. Then while he's out racing, fuck his girlfriend in the ass, take pics, and leave them on his car while hes at school.

  12. #12
    TGC Regular phizzalot's Avatar
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    04-25-2007
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    727
    wow blast from the past :) I remember you used the 8g sides on your 7g kit and it looked really nice...

    Good to see your still working on it and are making progress.. Good luck and hope to see more updates soon..
    ---||| 97Galant, E3 16G, Safc, 5spd,Drifter Body |||---

  13. #13
    You are here entirely tooo much!! peanotation's Avatar
    Join Date
    12-17-2002
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    Sherman Oaks, California
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    4,304
    wow man, glad you're keeping us updated. this looks like it's going to be a monster, can't wait!!! if you're interested i have front crossdrilled/slotted rotors FS, need minor resurfacing.

    https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=29658
    http://socallifestyle.com/

    1994 Galant GS 5spd

  14. #14
    Moderator mko's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StreetDreams View Post
    I got the motor and transmission out of the car today. The next step is to clean everything and start transferring parts from the old motor to the new one. Also, I need to clean up the engine bay.













    I have a few questions; hopefully you guys can help me out:

    1.) I am having problems removing the driver side axle; it seems to be seized into the hub. Is there a trick of the trade that I can try to remove this?

    2.) The Haynes Repair Manual says that if the car is to be moved with the axles out, a through bolt with two large washers (one on each side of the hub) should be installed and tightened securely. Is this absolutely necessary? I just need to move the car a few feet into the driveway to clean and degrease the engine bay and then roll it back into the garage?

    3.) I would like to remove the emission controls from the engine bay. I will be using a 1g ecu, so if I remove the solenoids on the firewall will I still get a CEL? Will there be any ill effects? Is it okay to remove these?:





    Thanks for the help fellas!
    Itll def. throw many codes if you remove the emission components. Youll need the 97-98 distributor, emission free harness and ecu - it only has canister. There are no vacuum lines on the throttle body, no purge solenoid, no egr solenoid, no egr valve, no intake manifold pressure sensor. I just got mine, its in the trunk for now.
    God created turbo lag to give the v8's a brief moment of hope.



    Build Thread

  15. #15
    I cleaned and degreased the engine bay today. Also, got that driver's side axle out of the hub. I started transfering some parts from the old engine to the new engine. Installed the fuel rail and injectors. Installed the timing parts, except for the belt; I ended up with a belt from a SOHC 4g64, so now I need to order a new belt for the DOHC 4g64. Also, I need the middle timing cover and some misc. gaskets. I will probably start on the wiring while I am waiting on those other parts.











  16. #16
    Moderator mko's Avatar
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    what kind of pulleys do you use?
    God created turbo lag to give the v8's a brief moment of hope.



    Build Thread

  17. #17
    They are Unorthodox Racing lightened pulleys. I have the crank pulley as well but will probably not use it. I fear that without the harmonic balancer I may damage the new motor; another reason is that when the engine rotating assembly was balanced at the machine shop, it was balanced with the stock harmonic balancer not the Unorthodox lightened pulley. Although, the weight difference is huge, so I am undecided what to use.

    Any suggestions???

  18. #18
    Also, they are underdrive pulleys, but the crank pulley is the only pulley that is actually smaller than the stock pulley. If the crank pulley is not installed than the accesory pulleys will not be underdriven. I'm not too sure what I want to do.

  19. #19
    List of parts I need to complete the motor swap:

    Evo 16g turbo
    oil return line and feed line
    timing cover (middle piece) or lower one piece
    ignition wire set
    spark plugs
    wideband o2
    oil pressure gauge
    fuel pressure gauge
    lines and fittings to install fuel pressure regulator
    injector resistor box
    4g64 dohc timing belt
    oil filter
    ACT clutch disc
    slave cylinder
    transmission mount
    prothane motor mount inserts
    transmission rebuild
    K&N intake filter (already have adapter)
    couplers and clamps for intercooler piping

  20. #20
    Moderator mko's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StreetDreams View Post
    Also, they are underdrive pulleys, but the crank pulley is the only pulley that is actually smaller than the stock pulley. If the crank pulley is not installed than the accesory pulleys will not be underdriven. I'm not too sure what I want to do.
    id go with fluidamper, but its around 300 bucks
    God created turbo lag to give the v8's a brief moment of hope.



    Build Thread

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