Baby G ~ 2000 Galant ES I4

[4g63lover]

mine were 20 AWG. still too big. I think it was the connector itself. Cuz the little metal piece seemed to stretch everytime I pushed it down.

[4g63lover]

She's ALIVE!!! but still need to bleed the clutch a little more and fix the leak on the slave.

[beam514]

congrats!

[polishmafia]

Congrats dude!

[4g63lover]

thanks!!

[beam514]

pics!
and I wish I knew about the 4-5 ft of SS line before I bought all the OEM stuff lol

[4g63lover]

I will have pics as soon as I get the clutch bleeding done.

[4g63lover]

The trans is a little noisy especially when i first start it. Probably the ISB the seller was talking about, a little search on C3G says it can be driven on and not a pressing issue. Just annoying. I will get it fixed at a trransmission place as soon as I get the money but for now I just want to take her for a spin.

[blue8g]

fap fap fap fap fap fap

congrats Jigz

[Ivory8g]

yeah buddy!! :)

[4g63lover]

I figured out the leak on the slave. the two washers were both on top instead of one on top and one on bottom. I got it fixed but still havent put fluid in it since its so effin cold out. should fix it though.

[RedGalant2k1]

good to hear, can't wait to see!

[4g63lover]

The banjo fitting is fixed. No more leak there but the NPT/-4 adapters are. on both the slave and the master. If its not one thing its the other. lol. Looks like I need to get some plumbing sealing tape to seal the fittings. That should keep it from leaking right?

[WhiteGalant]

Yea I just assumed you had to use plumbers teflon tape on those fittings. I have officially bought all of the parts, I'm just waiting on 4 of them lol

[4g63lover]

I got all the little leaks fixed with the Teflon tape (Thank you Denver!!!). Started bleeding the system today with gmoem2 but the clutch is still not disengaging, the trans is still rotating whn you depress the clutch, and the fluid still has tiny air bubbles in it (looks like sprite). Its such a pain, at one point the fluid was super clear like no bubbles, so I had Gmo pump it a few times with the bleeder closed and when I opended the bleeder and pumped it more thre goes a bunch of bubbles. lol. I hate bleeding hydraulic fluid, I hate doing it on brakes and I am now discovering that I hate doing it on hydraulic clutches. lol Looks like I got more bleeding to do tomorrow after class. /rant

Although it is so nice to hear it running, I just want it to move.

[mko]

you may be having the same issue as Drew did. You may need the extended slave cyl. rod and you proly wont be able to bleed it correctly untill you have that rod.

[seth98esT]

I got all the little leaks fixed with the Teflon tape (Thank you Denver!!!). Started bleeding the system today with gmoem2 but the clutch is still not disengaging, the trans is still rotating whn you depress the clutch, and the fluid still has tiny air bubbles in it (looks like sprite). Its such a pain, at one point the fluid was super clear like no bubbles, so I had Gmo pump it a few times with the bleeder closed and when I opended the bleeder and pumped it more thre goes a bunch of bubbles. lol. I hate bleeding hydraulic fluid, I hate doing it on brakes and I am now discovering that I hate doing it on hydraulic clutches. lol Looks like I got more bleeding to do tomorrow after class. /rant

Although it is so nice to hear it running, I just want it to move.

You dont want to pump the pedal with the bleeder open.

Get a coke bottle with an inch or two of fluid in the bottom. Attach a hose to the bleeder valve and put it in the bottle, make sure the bottom of the hose is in the fluid.
1. Pump the pedal 3-4 times and hold it down on the last pump
2. Open the valve, once it stops shooting out, close the valve
3. Repeat until you get no bubbles.

Or what I have always done, go buy a $5 speed bleeder valve and bleed it by yourself. You cant let the resevoir run out of fluid in the process or else you are starting the whole process over.

Does the pedal feel stiff at all?

For a 2g, probably flip it for a 8g/Evo:

When gmoem pumps the pedal, how far does the slave rod move?

The release bearing arm and the pivot ball will wear over time. Replacing both is one way to deal with the problem. Adding a washer or two under the arm is another way. DO NOT ADD A SHIM TO A NEW FORK AND BALL.

When the transmission is first installed in the car and just bolted down to the motor, this is the time to check the wear on the arm and ball. Checking it right that moment will save hours of hassle later! Look at where the arm protrudes out through the square boot on the front lower bell housing. With the arm pushed over towards the passenger side so that the release bearing is just touching the clutch, the arm should be either in the center of the square hole or towards the driver's side of center line.

armcentered.jpg (54956 bytes)If the arm is sitting off towards the passenger side, you need to pull the transmission back out and add a washer or two. This gets things back in line. If you don't, the hydraulics in trying to take up all the extra slack, will push the arm over and bottom out on the inner bell housing. If you are fighting clutch adjustment problems on an existing clutch install, get under the car and check this out. If you remove a crossmember to see it better, you can pull off the rubber boot and look in the bell housing with a flash light while an assistant pushes on the clutch pedal. You may see the arm hitting the inner bell housing.

If you are having problems with a clutch adjustment, don't be tempted to try to lengthen the clutch slave cylinder rod. It may work for a few symptoms (worn pedal assembly mostly) but it is not the right way to fix things. In order to take up additional free play, it puts constant pressure on the release bearing.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/c...ywheeltech.htm

[4g63lover]

I shimmed the fork so I shouldnt need the longer rod. Plus, the pedal doesnt feel "quite" right yet, I can still feel air at the top of the pedal. I also need some new gear lube. I didnt realize that the Mobil 1 synthetic is GL-5. I need to get some GL-4.

[4g63lover]

You dont want to pump the pedal with the bleeder open.

Get a coke bottle with an inch or two of fluid in the bottom. Attach a hose to the bleeder valve and put it in the bottle, make sure the bottom of the hose is in the fluid.
1. Pump the pedal 3-4 times and hold it down on the last pump
2. Open the valve, once it stops shooting out, close the valve
3. Repeat until you get no bubbles.

Or what I have always done, go buy a $5 speed bleeder valve and bleed it by yourself. You cant let the resevoir run out of fluid in the process or else you are starting the whole process over.

Does the pedal feel stiff at all?

For a 2g, probably flip it for a 8g/Evo:

When gmoem pumps the pedal, how far does the slave rod move?

The pedal has a little bit of play then it feels super stiff. The fork sits as close to the slave as possible when the clutch is engaged and the slave pushes it about an inch or so away from it when you press the pedal.

I also have a bleeder kit i got from NAPA that comes with a bottle and it says you can keep the bleeder open as you pump so you can do it by yourself. I'm sure it just needs more bleeding because as I said the fluid is not crystal clear.

[4g63lover]

Cold as hell out.





Car is a little dusty, but it's freezing out and I'm not planning to clean it. lol.

Drove it around the block yesterday feels awesome. I'm going to baby her for a while on short trips just incase anything comes up and I need to do some work. But I should be good to go. Can't wait 'til spring.