1998 galant 4g64 2.4 cranks but wont start

[minionseals]

does the reluctor plate spin through the crank sensor because its on the outside

[minionseals]

does the reluctor plate travel through the crank sensor because when i looked the mechanic had it on the outside of it

[Eclipse97526]

I went threw hell and back. Seems that the Crank sensor plate that is attached to the crank shaft its self was backwards. Mine would start and run and everything. Untill you tried to give it gas. then it died out.

But i tore it all down, and rebuilt it again, finally got it working, untill tonight.

[the_boogiman]

To remove your crank pulley:

1. Jack the front of the car up until the wheels are off the ground. Make sure you support it very securely on jack stands!

2. Remove your exhaust's down pipe. Doing this is pretty self explainable as you look at it. Just remove the bolts attaching it at both ends, and it comes off.

3. Support the engine with your jack under the oil pan. Use a piece of board, like a 2x12, between your jack and the oil pan so you don't rip a hole in it. Raise the engine just a little (half inch or so) and remove the driver's side engine mount. It's easy to remove. Just unscrew whatever is holding it on.

4. Lower the engine (by lowering the jack) enough to get to the bolts on the crank pulley in step 5.

5. There are 4 bolts around the pulley. 12mm, I think. Take a large ratchet (and fitting socket), set it to “tighten”, and put it on the center bolt. Go ahead and spray some WD-40 on the center bolt at this time also.

6. Take a second ratchet (set to loosen), and put it on one of the 12mm bolts. As you turn the 2nd ratchet, the entire pulley will turn until the 1st ratchet (the big one) gets wedged on a piece of the car. You can now take off the 4 12mm bolts. You'll have to remove the big ratchet, turn the pulley (Turn the tire to turn the pulley.), and wedge the big ratchet again to get to one or two of the bolts.

7. After the 4 bolts are out, remove both ratchets. Take one of the bolts and screw it back into one of the holes just a few turns. Leave it loose. Set the 2nd ratchet to “tighten” and put it on the loose bolt. Turn the pulley till the ratchet is wedged just like the big ratchet was before.

8. Now set the big ratchet to “loosen” and put it on the center bolt. You can now loosen that bolt without everything turning. You'll need a metal pipe to put over the ratchet's handle to extend it for leverage. A pipe 3 - 4 feet in length should do it. With the ratchet on that center bolt, and the pipe extending the ratchet's handle, you still might have to stand on it or even jump on it to break the bolt loose.

In your case, since the shop just had it off, it probably won't be that difficult to loosen though. Hope this helps.

[Shadow19]

To remove your crank pulley:

1. Jack the front of the car up until the wheels are off the ground. Make sure you support it very securely on jack stands!

2. Remove your exhaust's down pipe. Doing this is pretty self explainable as you look at it. Just remove the bolts attaching it at both ends, and it comes off.

3. Support the engine with your jack under the oil pan. Use a piece of board, like a 2x12, between your jack and the oil pan so you don't rip a hole in it. Raise the engine just a little (half inch or so) and remove the driver's side engine mount. It's easy to remove. Just unscrew whatever is holding it on.

4. Lower the engine (by lowering the jack) enough to get to the bolts on the crank pulley in step 5.

5. There are 4 bolts around the pulley. 12mm, I think. Take a large ratchet (and fitting socket), set it to “tighten”, and put it on the center bolt. Go ahead and spray some WD-40 on the center bolt at this time also.

6. Take a second ratchet (set to loosen), and put it on one of the 12mm bolts. As you turn the 2nd ratchet, the entire pulley will turn until the 1st ratchet (the big one) gets wedged on a piece of the car. You can now take off the 4 12mm bolts. You'll have to remove the big ratchet, turn the pulley (Turn the tire to turn the pulley.), and wedge the big ratchet again to get to one or two of the bolts.

7. After the 4 bolts are out, remove both ratchets. Take one of the bolts and screw it back into one of the holes just a few turns. Leave it loose. Set the 2nd ratchet to “tighten” and put it on the loose bolt. Turn the pulley till the ratchet is wedged just like the big ratchet was before.

8. Now set the big ratchet to “loosen” and put it on the center bolt. You can now loosen that bolt without everything turning. You'll need a metal pipe to put over the ratchet's handle to extend it for leverage. A pipe 3 - 4 feet in length should do it. With the ratchet on that center bolt, and the pipe extending the ratchet's handle, you still might have to stand on it or even jump on it to break the bolt loose.

In your case, since the shop just had it off, it probably won't be that difficult to loosen though. Hope this helps.

Damn dude. You go through way too much unnecessary shit to get your crank pulley off. The hardest part is finding out how to get the crank bolt out. It should be tq'd at like 80 lbs. You just have to use your brain on that one. Since i went 5 speed i cant lock the crank through the inspection cover. Usually what i do is get a nice sized allen wrench. Put it in the hole on the crank pulley and there is a hole on the frame of the car. I kinda wedge it in there and snap that bolt loose. Good luck.