The Galant Center - Powered by vBulletin

Thread: Temperature Control Actuator

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Showing results 1 to 20 of 25
  1. #1
    NEWBIE
    Join Date
    09-19-2007
    Location
    DeerPark, Long Island
    Posts
    38

    Temperature Control Actuator

    Ive done plenty of searching but haven't been able to find my answer. I had the loud clicking noise behind my dash a while ago and my ability to change from hot and cold came and went sporadically. Now im trying to fix it so I can have heat again from what ive read a few names were thrown around as the problem. One as the title suggest the other is the heater control valve, also another member reported something by the gas pedal was the problem. So im coming to to you know with what you think your opinion is as to what the problem is.

  2. #2
    I have the same problem, in mine it seems to happen most time going from cold to hot, and will seem to fix its self after a couple days. the cable from the control does go to a white plastic thing (for lack of proper word) gotta be in there somewhere. of anyone else has fixed this problem please post.

  3. #3
    Official TGC Pop-Pop Fishboy55's Avatar
    Join Date
    07-31-2002
    Location
    Baltimore, MD
    Posts
    2,848
    The heater control connects to the air mix damper via a cable. The cable moves the damper between the hot and cold position. Take the heater control apart and make sure the cable didn't come loose or break.
    Chip

    2000 Basalt Black Metallic GTZ
    (Paint Code: Porsche LC9Z)

    Genuine experience carries a lot more credibility than the ability to answer a question.


  4. #4
    NEWBIE
    Join Date
    09-19-2007
    Location
    DeerPark, Long Island
    Posts
    38
    Well I figured it out, it was a combination of the thing near my gas pedal not being able to move by the control of the thermostat and also the actuator. I will be attempting to write a hot to on getting to the actuator but seeing as how I havent replaced mine im not ganna go any further yet.

  5. #5
    Experienced TGC Member
    Join Date
    07-13-2005
    Location
    * Upstate NY *
    Posts
    1,289
    This seems to be the popular topic as of late. But im always down to help out a newb!!!

    Read carefully...

    The noise you are hearing is from an actuator. That actuator controls a valve that regulates the flow of hot coolant into your heater core. When you switch to Cold, the actuator closes the valve, preventing any hot coolant from entering the heater core to produce heat. When you switch to Hot, the actuator opens the valve allowing hot coolant to enter the heater core to produce heat.

    The actuator is located under the dashboard. Its a pain in the fucking ass to remove, but well worth repairing it when the time comes.

    After removing the dashboard, look to the left of the passenger side airbag. You will see a small box mounted to a metal plate with a wiring harness attached to the box. And right next to that you will see the actuator. Its a small box with a white plastic arm attached. Inside this plastic arm will be a slot with a metal prong sticking through it. The white arm moves back and forward, causing the metal prong to move also. This is what opens and closes the valve. You need to replace the actuator (the part with the white arm attached).

    *For a quick TEMPORARY fix, once you locate the actuator, switch to the desired temperature setting (Hot or Cold), and tap the actuator with a screwdriver. Continue to tap until you see the actuator begin to move.

    **If you can do the temp fix like i mentioned above, the next time i go back down to FLA, ill grab you the actuator from a junk yard. That part retails for over $150. I paid $7 for mine.

  6. #6
    NEWBIE
    Join Date
    09-19-2007
    Location
    DeerPark, Long Island
    Posts
    38
    Quote Originally Posted by 6G72Galant View Post
    This seems to be the popular topic as of late. But im always down to help out a newb!!!

    Read carefully...

    The noise you are hearing is from an actuator. That actuator controls a valve that regulates the flow of hot coolant into your heater core. When you switch to Cold, the actuator closes the valve, preventing any hot coolant from entering the heater core to produce heat. When you switch to Hot, the actuator opens the valve allowing hot coolant to enter the heater core to produce heat.

    The actuator is located under the dashboard. Its a pain in the fucking ass to remove, but well worth repairing it when the time comes.

    After removing the dashboard, look to the left of the passenger side airbag. You will see a small box mounted to a metal plate with a wiring harness attached to the box. And right next to that you will see the actuator. Its a small box with a white plastic arm attached. Inside this plastic arm will be a slot with a metal prong sticking through it. The white arm moves back and forward, causing the metal prong to move also. This is what opens and closes the valve. You need to replace the actuator (the part with the white arm attached).

    *For a quick TEMPORARY fix, once you locate the actuator, switch to the desired temperature setting (Hot or Cold), and tap the actuator with a screwdriver. Continue to tap until you see the actuator begin to move.

    **If you can do the temp fix like i mentioned above, the next time i go back down to FLA, ill grab you the actuator from a junk yard. That part retails for over $150. I paid $7 for mine.

    Yup did the temp fix im just going to try and compile everything into a how to for everyone else.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Vahn55 View Post
    Yup did the temp fix im just going to try and compile everything into a how to for everyone else.
    and when you do let me know cause I need to do that next... 2 of my galants are doing the same...

  8. #8
    any updates on this problem?
    05' BMW X3 3.0i
    02' Galant ES

  9. #9
    mine is doing this now. Is there a tutorial how to remove the dash? Could I get away with this by just removing the bottom of the dash?

  10. #10

  11. #11
    i just removed the lower dash

  12. #12
    TGC Regular
    Join Date
    09-20-2004
    Location
    Queens, New York
    Posts
    602
    I am having the same exact problem AGAIN. The first time I just took it to the dealer and they fixed it. This time I want to fix it myself. I have definitely found the problem.

    I followed this tutorial:
    https://thegalantcenter.net/forum/sh...ad.php?t=17591

    But the blower motor was definitely not the problem. While I had everything disconnected and out of the car I found where the problem is coming from. I do not know what the part number is or what it is even called so if maybe some1 can help me out that would be great. The part has the following letters on it:

    WSV
    CAA501A 169
    3E12



    I need to replace that part. here is a picture:

    Last edited by Cheekz185; 04-25-2009 at 11:30 AM



  13. #13
    TGC Regular
    Join Date
    09-20-2004
    Location
    Queens, New York
    Posts
    602
    Update:

    I called my Mitsubishi dealership and they gave me the part # its MR958603. And its $137.



  14. #14
    ill go to the jy today pick a couple of these up if you need one pm me
    Quote Originally Posted by jubeiaire View Post
    i know a guy that saw a guy that knew a guy that once passed by a car that had been painted. Ill ask him tomorrow after consulting my magic ball to determine WHERE YOU LIVE in proximity to a paint shop NEAR WHERE YOU LIVE..................

  15. #15
    TGC Regular
    Join Date
    08-01-2002
    Location
    S. CAROLINA/GEORGIA
    Posts
    758
    One of my G's is doing this now too. Looks like I need to pick up some of these.

  16. #16
    Experienced TGC Member
    Join Date
    07-13-2005
    Location
    * Upstate NY *
    Posts
    1,289
    Yeh something is seriously wrong with this bullshit part.

    I replaced mine back in October, i think, and sometimes that rattling noise comes back whenever i switch from hot to cold or cold to hot. I pieced mine from a junkyard down in Florida for $6. Hell the one i originally had only lasted about a year.

    However, my stock actuator shit the bed after a few front end collisions, relatively minor. The Galant i took the new one from was wrecked. Perhaps this actuator is very sensitive to impact???

  17. #17
    Here’s a little more info on the replacement of the actuator. The link on this thread to specific instructions is dead. I used the instructions at this link for taking the lower dashboard apart (https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=17591). However, you do not need to take out the center console, just ignore that part. Also, watch the screws removed from the right side – they are not all the same.

    Once you get the entire dashboard off you will see the actuator behind the blower duct. You need to remove the blower duct. It is pushed into another piece that is straight back and there is a single screw holding it in on the left side over by the controls. Remove that screw and pull it out.

    Now you can clearly see the actuator, but there is a piece of electronics mounted on an aluminum bracket just to the right of the actuator. Move the electronic gizmo off the bracket by pushing it straight back (it is held to the bracket by sliding into a slot. The bracket itself still makes it hard to get at the actuator. I removed the easy to get at top screw holding the bracket and then bent it out of the way (it’s thin metal) so I could get at the actuator easier.

    Now you can remove the actuator. You need a stubby phillips head screw driver (~3”) and it needs to be #1. There are three screws holding in the actuator, 2 are readily visible and one is on the far side out of sight. The one that can’t be seen isn’t too hard to get at though. Look at the replacement part feel where the screw head will be and transfer that feel to the one that is installed. The actuator just comes right off, unplug the molex connector. Replace the new one ensuring that the metal pin fits into the slot on the white plastic. Turn the car electronics on and move the temp selector back and forth to ensure it is functioning. I thought that the valve would move gradually as the temp selection knob was turned. Actually the valve moves 180 degrees with just one more click on the temp dial. But, the air temp changes nicely across the full range of settings. There must be another system at work that modifies the temp.

    The job took me 2 hrs. now I could do it in under an hour.

  18. #18
    Booty Luva wetamup2k3g's Avatar
    Join Date
    12-13-2010
    Location
    Brooklyn, Maryland
    Posts
    4,643
    I've been having the same problem since 2007, but here's how I managed to get around it until it finally goes...What I do is when it starts to get cool (around October) I move my temp control past fully cool into the warmer setting, and DO NOT move it back to fully cool until around May.

    Between May and October when I know it's gonna be hot out, I keep it on fully cool and NEVER move it. I only actuate the thing twice a year and that seems to keep it operating. If it gets warm one day after October or before May, I'll move it to one "click" just before the max cool setting, and if it's not cool enough, turn on the A/C.

    As long as you don't move the control in and out of its max setting, it doesn't actuate the defective part, and the blending seems to be unaffected. It's worked for me, it's a stopgap temporary hood fix, but it costs nothing and harms nothing.

    -Greg

    "I smashed up the grey one, bought me a red;
    Every time we hit the parking lot we turn heads!"
    -Pimp C, "International Players Anthem"

  19. #19
    When I got mine done, we didn't remove the dashboard at all. We were able to reach the actuator, by taking off the passenger airbag and reaching in from the top left. It was a bit tight, and you have to be careful to not drop the screws, but it's possible.

  20. #20
    crashfirepm53
    Guest
    W0133-1900519 should be the updated part number.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Rules

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •