4g64 dohc swapped turbo

[WhiteGalant]

the heatsoak wont b that bad the exhaust pressure doesnt really build up for too long since its dual ball bearing so its pretty much in and out right away barely any lag at all plus with the car tuned right it will not get cherry red hot headers getting cherry red hot is usually due to incorrect tune causing afr to be off and causing extreme egt...(exhaust gas temp)... and yea its gonna see track time and show time im actually going up against my fathers blown 78 vette.... it was a beast on 14lbs with the old setup this will b waaaaaaayyyy faster now with 33lbs

Thats the hyundai head right? Hows the aftermarket support for it? As far as cams, springs, etc?

[ESR2005]

it uses evo parts. same head just cast a lil diff i.e spots for water lines and watnot on evo and not on hyundai one but internals are the same but not stock they arent mines built

[Fresh_617]

Yo ur from mass??

[Fresh_617]

oh shit ur trunk is crazyyyy lol

and the rest of ur car 2

[ESR2005]

yea im from mass

[Stewi]

the heatsoak wont b that bad the exhaust pressure doesnt really build up for too long since its dual ball bearing so its pretty much in and out right away barely any lag at all plus with the car tuned right it will not get cherry red hot headers getting cherry red hot is usually due to incorrect tune causing afr to be off and causing extreme egt...(exhaust gas temp)... and yea its gonna see track time and show time im actually going up against my fathers blown 78 vette.... it was a beast on 14lbs with the old setup this will b waaaaaaayyyy faster now with 33lbs

No offense but you wouldnt be more wrong about heat/tuning. The general idea behind a turbo car is to get the AFR's tuned as close to stoich as possible without leaning out too much. In boost however the highest AFRs to be "safe" would be around 11.5 - 11.8:1 Because the more heat generated the better for spooling the turbo, with the AFR tuned right, the motor will be at its max potential for power. Yes, of course if you go way lean your EGT's will go thru the roof but at that point forget about the heatsoak you will be damaging pistons/valves/headgaskets and the like. When you say the "car tuned right it will not get cherry red hot" you must not have spent alot of time around turbo cars. On my old setup which was a cast stainless DSM manifold, I can take my car on a WOT highway pull at 15psi and do a 0-140 run, pull off to the side of the road and open the hood and my manifold is glowing red. That is on a cast stainless manifold which the wall thickness is probably double of any tubular manifold. Did I mention my AFR's were around 10.8 to 11:1 during that pull which is very conservative. When I hang out at the track you can see DSM's and EVO's make 10 second runs, come back around, stop and get the timeslip, park in the pit, open the hood, and the manifold will still be glowing red a little near the collector since the other areas had a little time to cool.

When you dyno that car you should monitor ambient air temps versus air temp going into the intake manifold, see the results after 2 or 3 back to back pulls on the dyno and compare to your first pull, I wouldnt be surprised if you saw a 10-15 degree difference.

[Alexey]

I've always liked your car, and I can say that all the work I see you've done so far, I like. Can't wait to see the final results.

[Fresh_617]

lol not 2 sound like a groupie or nothin but u got any spare parts? im trynna build up my galant and urs is very inspiring to me to make my shit hot...not trynna jock u or nothin lol

[krow]

The car is hot, clean, and a nice build but spend $150 get tint and it will finish your G.

[johnygezony]

No offense but you wouldnt be more wrong about heat/tuning. The general idea behind a turbo car is to get the AFR's tuned as close to stoich as possible without leaning out too much. In boost however the highest AFRs to be "safe" would be around 11.5 - 11.8:1 Because the more heat generated the better for spooling the turbo, with the AFR tuned right, the motor will be at its max potential for power. Yes, of course if you go way lean your EGT's will go thru the roof but at that point forget about the heatsoak you will be damaging pistons/valves/headgaskets and the like. When you say the "car tuned right it will not get cherry red hot" you must not have spent alot of time around turbo cars. On my old setup which was a cast stainless DSM manifold, I can take my car on a WOT highway pull at 15psi and do a 0-140 run, pull off to the side of the road and open the hood and my manifold is glowing red. That is on a cast stainless manifold which the wall thickness is probably double of any tubular manifold. Did I mention my AFR's were around 10.8 to 11:1 during that pull which is very conservative. When I hang out at the track you can see DSM's and EVO's make 10 second runs, come back around, stop and get the timeslip, park in the pit, open the hood, and the manifold will still be glowing red a little near the collector since the other areas had a little time to cool.

When you dyno that car you should monitor ambient air temps versus air temp going into the intake manifold, see the results after 2 or 3 back to back pulls on the dyno and compare to your first pull, I wouldnt be surprised if you saw a 10-15 degree difference.

BAM ! you just got hit in the head with a turbo bible !

[ESR2005]

lol its w.e i dont tune just build the motor... lol and no i dnt have any spare parts but if i come across some ill let u know...