Phizzalot's Turbo Build (In Process)

[bmore303]

What type of MAF Sensore is that because if its stock the car wont even start and if it does it will run like shit..

Appears to be stock, but why are you providing false information?

[phizzalot]

Alright So I was able to get my LICP together and now have completed my intercooler setup :).. Um I moved on to the the fuel pump and started to replace my old one to with a 2g Turbo eclipse fuelpump.

My questions.

1. I got the nut connection at the top ready to be removed but as I screw the line off it becomes kinked to the point were it looks like the black tube is going to break :(
Should I keep twisting it off or remove the bottom nut connection as well (going to that long line)?

2.Also when installing my LICP, I was unable to get it to fit with the larger radiator fan so I just took it out :) Will this cause the other fan not to turn on?

[Johnathansgalant]

the larger fan is the main fan and the smaller is the supp or ac fan so if u remove the large fan u will most likely overheat all the time.. u need the larger fan more than the smaller fan or u gotta replace it with a large slim fan or something...

what nut connections are u talking about?? U should remove all the hoses before u rotate anything.. I disconnected the feed and return lines and u remove the ring and assembly but im not 100% with ur 7g

[4-G-rim]

1. I got the nut connection at the top ready to be removed but as I screw the line off it becomes kinked to the point were it looks like the black tube is going to break :(
Should I keep twisting it off or remove the bottom nut connection as well (going to that long line)?

You remove the black hose with the clamp up top of the fuel pump assembly. To remove the feed line...you are going to remove it from the bottom of the car where the hardline meets the rubber feed line to the pump assembly.

Here is the VFAQ: http://vfaq.com/mods/pump-WB-2GFWD.html

2.Also when installing my LICP, I was unable to get it to fit with the larger radiator fan so I just took it out :) Will this cause the other fan not to turn on?

1 fan is for your A/C which I believe is the RH fan and the LH is for the cooling system. If I am assuming right...you removed the RH fan (closest to the battery) to run the Jpipe right? IF so...then when you turn your A/C...you will over heat since the fan for the a/c is not there to come on

[DOHCstunr]

drivers side is a/c fan, passenger is radiator fan.

I took my a/c fan out a while back to give me more room to wrench on my wastegate dumptupe, and I didn't put it back in.
I've never once seen my coolant needle even point straight up, let alone shift to the right side of the gauge.
I'll put it back in before competition in the spring.

but if you do this mod it shouldn't matter anyways:
http://vfaq.com/mods/wayback/2gcoolingfan.html
If you don't want to run the override switch, but still want both fans to always work in tandem, you can just install the jumper wire... takes literally 10 seconds to do.

but i like having the fan override. Whenever I know i'm within half a mile of my destination I stop boosting and hit the fan switch. start cooling things down ahead of time.
Then i can sit there and idle with the fans on.
If I had a damn turbo timer I suppose the fan override would make the turbo timer even more effective.

[phizzalot]

Thanks G-rim and Dohc, I was able to get the line for the fuel pump off by unbolting the bottom portion.

I installed the 2g turbo pump to the 7g assembly but needed to cut away a piece of the metal fitting so that the pump would slide up enough to be able to fit in the tank...( Dremel a must)

as for the fans, I don't have AC anymore cause I don't feel like looking for another compressor at the moment....

I have removed the passenger side fan (guessing radiator) so Ill probably overheat if i don't do the vfaq mod?

Tomorrow I will install the water feed line, bolt the oil return line to the turbo, bolt the downpipe to the o2 housing, and rewire the 1g o2 to my 7g harness...

I should be ready to test startup by then :)

[phizzalot]

Ok, so I started it up and went for a ride around the neighborhood... I am happy so far with the results Ive got. The car idles fine and when regularly driving everything is smooth and normal.

Now for the bad. When I gave it a little boost, thee LICP popped off ;( also when I tightened that up I gave it another try and the car bogged down and died after boosting. I talked with a friend and he said I may need to change my spark plugs cause it sounds like the spark cannot burn off the remaining fuel at low idle.

As for my radiator fan, I moved the smaller one to the middle of the radiator and I haven't started to overheat or even come half way on the gauge inside the cluster..

What type of spark plug and gap iam I suppose to be running now that the car is turbo'ed?
Also what Percentage's Iam I suppose to set the SAFC to at each rpm on high and low throttle?

Also here is a photo...I have a few more iam saving for the member pic area...


heres another.. Had to pick up some grocery's

[4-G-rim]

I lowered my spark plug gap to 32mm and never had a issue since I have turbo'ed the car.

Assuming you are running 450cc's, and to compesate.....-34% across the board on high and low throttle. Then from there..you can mess around with adjusting the parameters.

Can't wait to see the car in person man...definitely let me know when you are in town and we can get together for a little meet.

[seth98esT]

Very cool. Are those JDM headlights? In need of a major major buffing!

Are you using worm clamps? If so, you NEEEEEED to upgrade to tbolt clamps, you will not regret it. As for the car bogging, it could be a couple dozen different things.

[4-G-rim]

+1 on what Seth suggested on the Tbolt clamps. I think I recommened for you to upgrade previously..but they may be a bit more expensive, but worth the investment.

Those headlights need some buffing man...next time you are in Orlando, I will buff them up for you myself

[phizzalot]

Cool thanks for the pointers. I will order some tbolts/silicone couplers next pay check :)... Ill gap my plugs and try it out again...

I May be in orlando this upcoming week but not sure if the Galant will be up for the trip as of yet...

Thanx again everyone for all the help, I will upgrade this post with the upgrades and changes I make to the setup...

[DOHCstunr]

your lenses look about ready for a solid wetsand. I don't think there is a compound that will help you at this point.

I run 22psi on my 4g63 with a compression ratio of 7.8:1
I run bpr6es plugs(irrelevant for the sohc) and a gap of .028
Not sure what you'd want to run on a 4g64, but with any kind of decent boost and of course you having higher compression.... I would think you'd want to run something around what I run w/ your gap.

The most important part would be that you run the OEM NGK plugs.
don't buy v power, or platinum, or bosh or iridium,
just run the standard copper NGK.

It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to run one step colder.



Are your distributor cap, rotor button, and spark plug wires up to date?

[phizzalot]

Well since I last posted, I have changed my Licp again but have been blowing off clamps/couplers left and right LOL...
I checked my Gap and they are all set at 32mm. I also set my SAFC -34 and haven't bogged out or cutt off yet. My plugs and wires are up to date and my idle is super smooth...

I really need better silicone couplers and tbolt clamps... ( re-ataching Intercooler pipes on the side of the street is not fun)

I was able to get boost up to about 6.5 but let off cause I didn't want to overdue it :)

Oh yeah, I think I will be needing another clutch soon :( this oem one is just a bit too soft...

[DOHCstunr]

are your charge pipes flared at the end, or do they have anti-slip beads on them?

You can also use Ultra mega hold hair spray to assist in preventing the couplers from slipping off.

If your couplers are not nylon reinforced lol..... its funny cause once you get the t-bolt clamps... and they can no longer slip off..... they just burst. and the sound is the scariest thing you've ever heard.
I figured that one out a looooooong time ago. ;)

[Blue Ice]

Wow man the car is looking great! Congrats on the progress.

Have you checked to see if you have the Bypass valve properly hooked up? If that's hooked up incorrectly, you could be steadily building up pressure in your charge pipes.

Also, make sure the tube to the boost gauge doesn't have any leaks. When i first hooked mine up i had a leak where the tube goes into the gauge. It may sound a little funny, but what i did to check was i sucked on the open end of the tube that was hooked to the gauge, till i got like 5 psi, then put my tongue over the hole. If there are not any leaks the vacuum should hold it's pressure. there was so it tightened the fittings and tried again. The fittings on the back side of the gauge have to be crazy tight. I also wrapped the back side with electrical tape for added security. It's important to get a good read cause you may think you're stopping at 6psi, but the pipes are charges a lot higher.

Have you been able to hear the pressure release before? Is your boost controller hooked up properly. It just seems to me like the pressure is not getting release correctly.

as far as clutch, i like my SBR clutch. the street able

[Johnathansgalant]

haha i bet ur pipes are not beaded tis tis ron..... Get them beaded and use some good ply silicone.. i know a shop down here if u need some semi local..

[seth98esT]

You dont need beeded pipes, just a quality coupler and tbolt clamps. Once I installed those, I never blew off a pipe, all the way up to 22psi. Beaded pipes do help a lot, but they are not required if you have quality couplers and tbolt clamps!

And I dont think he is having a problem hitting full boost, sounds like he is just scared to hit full boost without a tune :)

Post some updated non-camera phone pictures man!

[DOHCstunr]

Just curious...
have you done a boost leak test?
there is no point in tuning your car if you have boost leaks.
You'd be amazed at how many you could have.
And the crazy places that leak..... like the throttle body shaft seals(garuntee yours are leaking)
but here is the deal. Just like your tune goes completely to shit if you vent your BOV on a MAS car...... having even the TINIEST boost leak will throw your entire tune off.
It will also significantly longer to spool the turbo..... and will cause your turbo to run out of breath earlier in the top end(causing you to lose power up high)

Its such a simple procedure..... you'll be amazed.

[bronxbombr]

nice.

[phizzalot]

BlueIce man you got some skills with pressure testing ( no offense :) ) I tried to blow thru my boost gauge and could barley get the neddle to move past 1 or 2.. I may have a malfunctioning boost gauge.

Although when I used a smaller diamater licp I was able to get the gauge up to 6.5 or 7 before the pipes blew off... I agree DOHC that these ebay couplers are crap and it makes no sense to even try and drive around with them because they slip off!!!

I actually found a shop that carries 4ply silicone couplers/tbolt clamps and am in the process of swapping out all the ebay stuff...

The pipes are not beeded and I don't think I will boostleak test it untill I replace those parts...
Thanks for all the comments and help again...