Phizzalot's Turbo Build (In Process)

**Shadow19** · 01-01-2009, 05:43 PM

Hey phiz can you post up wiring diagrams and a list of shit you needed? I have damn near every part to boost my galant till i swap it to the 63t and im just unsure of what else i need or how to do the wiring. I have the turbo, manifold, FMIC, piping, injectors and whatever else i can use off of a complete 1g turbo LOL...

**kolio** · 01-01-2009, 05:46 PM

once you fix that stuff post vids!!!

**phizzalot** · 01-01-2009, 08:34 PM

Originally Posted by Shadow19

Hey phiz can you post up wiring diagrams and a list of shit you needed? I have damn near every part to boost my galant till i swap it to the 63t and im just unsure of what else i need or how to do the wiring. I have the turbo, manifold, FMIC, piping, injectors and whatever else i can use off of a complete 1g turbo LOL...

Well I didn't do too much wiring.. I used the tutorial from here to hook up the safc although one wire was different and also the tut to wire in the resistor pack.. In your situation iam sure you will be doing way more wiring and would really look to blueice/Dohc/seth or 4grim, but will help out anyway I can...On a side not the wiring is sometimes easy once you start going...

Hey Kolio I had a vid of the first startup with the manifold smokin from the excess oil and other fulids but I just broke my phone and lost it :(
I will post some up when I get things going agian for sure....

**4-G-rim** · 01-02-2009, 01:16 PM

Looking forward to seeing the car man. Hey...I am hooking up with my friend that took the photography pics of -G-rim recently for another photoshoot for some rolling shots. I am looking to set it up middle of this month...on a Sunday or something. If you are in town, you are welcome to have your 7g in the shoot along with my other buddy with his 7g. Let me know man

**B19WHEELS** · 01-02-2009, 01:47 PM

Napa sells t-bolt clamps in there catalog on the counter.. I think the 2.25 to 2.75 for $4.70 a piece. Also HTS has a sell on 4ply silicone couplers(very strong). Get rid of the Home Depot rubber couplers asap( i started out with them also lol) Good to see the car is running! Please invest in a wideband o2 if u havent gotten one yet..

**PogiGreg** · 01-02-2009, 11:41 PM

With the air filter facing the firewall, how are you getting fresh air in?

**phizzalot** · 01-03-2009, 05:04 PM

Sounds Good G-Rim.. Ill have to get to work on its reliability and then will make a trip up to orlando.....

PogiGreg, The placement of the air filter is mainly because I didn't want to relocate my battery and couldn't get it the piping to work any other way.. There is a large hole between the back of the transmission and the firewall where it can get air. Also the air is being cooled down by the FMIC. I think as long as I have a filter it will be ok...

**4-G-rim** · 01-03-2009, 05:24 PM

Originally Posted by PogiGreg

With the air filter facing the firewall, how are you getting fresh air in?

He should be alright..there is some fresh air going in there and as long he has a air filter it should be fine. The original intake piping routing for the Galant VR4's were similar to where he has his filter sitting at.

**PogiGreg** · 01-03-2009, 05:42 PM

It seems like there wouldn't be a direct flow. Now I'll tell you a nice indescreet hood scoop that looks like what is on the WRX would look wicked and actually be functional.

**DryBear** · 01-03-2009, 05:49 PM

My filter sits in a similar position (close to the firewall) and I don't have any airflow problems. I have considered some kind of custom scoop, though, but don't want any big bulges on my hood.

**phizzalot** · 01-30-2009, 12:15 PM

So I've got a lot of the HD coupler's changed out for the silicone good stuff but feel as if I have a boost leak somewhere.

I got a boost leak tester which i placed on the front of the turbo to build pressure, however i cannot get passed 0lbs on my boost gauge?

It sounds like all of the air is escaping from the gasket near the throttle body :( is there anywhere else around that area which may be leaking?

MY new plans are to clean up the engine bay and add some color to the certain areas new pics will be up soon...

**mko** · 01-30-2009, 12:54 PM

yeah, throttle body shaft seal

**seth98esT** · 01-30-2009, 01:24 PM

Cheap part, not hard to replace as long as you can get the screws of the butterfly valve.

Hook the boost leak tester up again and get a hose, put one end up to your ear, the other on or near the part you want to test, should be able to hear a leak. Also take a squirt bottle, fill it with semi soapy water, and spray areas you might think are leaking. Also take the return off your BOV and make sure its not leaking as well.

**phizzalot** · 01-30-2009, 06:19 PM

Thanks Seth/MKO, I think I may scvange a junkyard for a 60mm TB while iam at it so I don't have to do this process twice...

Also Dohc sent me the vfaq DIY for replacing the seals..
http://www.plymouthlaser.com/tbor.htm (just in case anyone else needs it...)

**DOHCstunr** · 01-30-2009, 06:52 PM

its a very easy process.
took me about 1/2 hour once the throttle was off the car.
also,
be sure to use only a brand new OEM mitsu throttle body gasket(or set if you have a turbo throttle w/ elbow)
the felpro ones are a bitch to get off(you have to scrape them) and I don't trust them not to leak.

other boost leak culprits are the pcv valve, fuel injector-to-head seals, and adjustment screws on bov's and afpr screws

**Galantfan88** · 01-30-2009, 07:00 PM

Not to bad man.

**phizzalot** · 07-13-2009, 05:18 PM

Another update... I got pics coming soon but I went down to Johnathansgalants place and got my boost problem fixed :)

We did a boost leak first and was only leaking from my bov. The seam from the bov to the pipe was ok however air was pouring out of the whole used to return air into the intake pipe... After closer inspection John noticed I had a few things incorrect.

I won't mention how I had it hooked up before to confuse anyone Ill just show how things are now and the steps used to get there :)

1. bought a splitter to tap into the line that runs from the intake manifold into the fuel rail.
2. tap into the splitter on the intake/manifold and run that line to the top of bov.
3. I tapped my j-pipe pretty well and ran a line into the top of my dejion mbc
4. run a line from the wastegate into the other end of the mbc

For those who don't have a mbc, the line from the wastegate actuator should be run directly to the j-pipe.

John explained that I didn't have negative and positive pressure before and thats where I was running into problems. After the fix I was able to hit 8lbs-10lbs easily and the overall feeling of the car improved....

I have pictures on the way but stay tuned to my future install...

Wideband Air/fuel Gauge (JAW)
Rear Disc setup from Galant GS (4lug)
EEE PC In car Touchscreen Radio/PC

98 Eclipse ECU Swap (reflashable to Evo 8 Setup :) )
Welded Intercooler piping (maybe)

**Shadow19** · 07-13-2009, 05:57 PM

dude can you post pics on your oil and water return lines and shit for your turbo? I may be starting my turbo swap soon but im still at a loss on how to hook all that shit up. Did you use the 2g oil cooler? Or do you not have an oil cooler? Any pics would be greatly apprecited bro. Also some pics on the BOV lines and stuff.

Thanks,
Johnas

**qnz** · 07-13-2009, 07:49 PM

good stuff Ron.

you gonna run Linux on the EEE PC? I had one before. shit started up fast!

**phizzalot** · 07-13-2009, 08:00 PM

I actually was thinking of getting the 7inch asus eee pc laptop, flipping the lcd(cutting the back side of the case), adding the touch kit from ebay and mounting it double din style. Not sure if it will fit but worth a try for 160.00....

I was going to use windows and roaddrunner.... linux is fun though but I like the interface of roadrunner especially with the touch screen...

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