GalantTuner10's build

[Galanttuner10]

Update:

Today I did the 2G ECU swap, very easy to do. Swapping 5 pins and adding 3. I also found the easiest way to do the ECU rewire was to get a few new pins from Mitsu, my dealer just gave me a few of each size as there are 2 pin sizes and they come with wire already crimped on. Also I did wire the Ignition power pin 82 at the ECU directly to the ignition switch as it was fairly accessible. Check engine light comes on the goes out and we are ready to go. The rest of the rewire will be in the spring when I drop the motor in. Getting pretty close, besides that rewiring all I have left is torque the head on and then do all the timing components. I can't wait.

[w/oarctic7g]

Nice, one step closer! I agree the wiring at ecu is fairly simple it just seems a bit intimidating until you actually start doing it. What's the deal with pin 82? On the gs pin 62 became 82 on the 2gecu.

[eclipsh]

Really makes me wish I'd gone OBDII with an Evo/Late 2G ECU. Life (and wiring) would have been so much simpler.

[Galanttuner10]

Nice, one step closer! I agree the wiring at ecu is fairly simple it just seems a bit intimidating until you actually start doing it. What's the deal with pin 82? On the gs pin 62 became 82 on the 2gecu.

The obd2 galant ignition switched power is another pin which doesn't get moved as its still needed in that spot. you just wire into an ignition power source which for me was the line out of the ignition switch itself and its all set.

[Galanttuner10]

To add to what I said before, I did a test while doing the swap, before I wired pin 82 I plugged in the 95 EPROM ecu and it didn't have power but plug the galant ecu back in it still has power so that to me says its ignition switched power source is a wire we just didn't have at least in the 96-98 7gs for sure and maybe in the 94-95 single cams as well, but like you said the GS has that pin. then I wired in the ignition switched power from the switch and it got power and I can communicate with the ECU.

here's a short video of turning the key to ON with the 2G ecu in there, I know its not much but I will take some pics when I finish everything. I haven't soldered the connections or wrapped them yet so I can maybe get some decent pictures for people to go by. Also going to go back to Mitsu tomorrow and get the part numbers on the ECU pins to make peoples lives easier.

[Galanttuner10]

So one more recent update:

I have recently gotten my engine ASE and went through my engine course in school and I learned a lot and have built a few motors and now my own. Last year when I had gotten the GS I took the head to a local shop and had a valve job. I never thought to look at it as I was referred there by many people, but last month curiosity got the best of me and I pulled the head apart. Most was all well, the spring assembled height was a little tight be 30 thousandths which only adds around 3-4 lb of pressure which is good because springs relax about that much over time anyway, but the issue was found when I pulled the valve to accurately measure the spring height, the valves were lapped in. Lapping is terrible and really hinder performance and if you looked at the lap line it was in the center of the valve, when you want it as close to the bottom of the valve for performance applications so as soon as the valve opens it breathes and air has a direct path. Now the motor would have ran that way no issues but I am a perfectionist, so I decided to redo the valve job myself and I had the valves ground. lapping widens the seat which isn't a great idea and it really dulls the seat but it was thought to give a better start up seal but the interference angle never lasts past around 10-20 miles anyway so lapping is just old news, but still used today but for performance do not lap.

Pics








these last 2 photos are trying to show you the optimum seat in relation to what you see on the valve. the faint line towards the widest part is where the valve sits all the way to the widest part. maximum air flow for sure and done without changing any of the spring heights more than 2-3 thousandths.

[Galanttuner10]

warm weather coming makes me work more.....

[deeznutz]

^^^amen to the the warm weather brother!!! Looking good

[Neo8G]

Looks great. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

[Galanttuner10]

I can't wait to run this setup. It's kind of a compromise because its stock rods and pistons but ACL bearings, ARP mains and head studs.

The money is in the head. Ferrea valves, supertech seals, FP beehive springs, FP3 cams and 3mm lifters.

Debating turbo setup right now, FP revealed their dsm BB turbos an I was thinking of making a journal bearing version of the black for myself which is a 35r compressor wheel on a mitsubishi TD06H turbine or running a Precision 6176.

[mysticj]

Looks good.

[Galanttuner10]

so i felt more photogenic than usual today with getting so close to dropping the motor in hopefully by the end of May.

I got to put the timing belt on and all the covers today after waiting on all the new under covers to come in. Not much left to do on it and i cant wait.

[w/oarctic7g]

So you bought all new sheetmetal back plates and middle front for the gs engine? Still available from Mitsubishi? Is that the mirage oil plug for b.s. hole? It looks a little different than mine. Love to see the details on your wiring when you get to the engine bay. I spent more time doing underhood wiring than at the ecu but I think you will have more changes than I did. 1g style cam/crank sensor on tranny side or?

[deeznutz]

Don't stop now keep the ball rolling bro get her done..

[Galanttuner10]

GS under cover on the upper right, the block and exhaust cam side are 4g63 as the GS covers are no longer offered, and all the timing covers are from an early 95 as they have a different middle cover part number which is closer to the GS. also for wiring, under dash wiring i swapped the injectors, moved the tach signal wire and added 3 wires, 1 for knock sensor, 1 for ignition and 1 for ignition switched power to the ignition switch itself. I have the underhood wiring all mapped out and ready to go. Yes that is also a 1G cam sensor so I will run the crank signal off of that as well so i dont have anymore sensors under the timing belt.

and yes the ball is rolling and i was shooting to have here done by the end of may, but with school and work it may be by mid june. just debating this cars future right now/ i want to keep it but i dont know right now

[keith6110]

Coming along nicely! I can't wait until the interfooler becomes intercooler =P

[Galanttuner10]

Keith you know I was turbo all last summer right? Trust me it did its job very well.

[keith6110]

Keith you know I was turbo all last summer right? Trust me it did its job very well.

For real!??? I must be under a rock xD That's great man. I can't wait to see it's transformation in person!

[Galanttuner10]

For real!??? I must be under a rock xD That's great man. I can't wait to see it's transformation in person!

If you really missed it go to page 21 for full setup details and some pics. This setup will be almost the same just a different turbo and larger injectors

[wetamup2k3g]

Mid June, just in time for Cruel Summer 2013! Good stuff man.