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Thread: Sub and Amp install

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  1. #1
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    Sub and Amp install

    This is for the 2004 Galant GTS, but should work for other models respectively.

    I have the 6 speaker 6 cd Infinity sound system and this will allow you to add a sub and amp without modifying the existing speaker setup or modifying the stock amp; which is located on the passenger side to the right of the glove box almost touching the wheel well for anyone wondering where its at.

    You can see here the engine compartment and plently of places to install a fuse and clean wiring.


    To the right of the airbox gives you access to an open area which the main electrical and computer connections go through which has plenty of area for a 4 gauge wire to run through.


    If you open the driver door you can see where the wires turn into the car. This also give you access to make installing the power wire easier.


    By getting a wood dowel and lightly taping the 4 gauge wire onto the tip you can feed it in through the gap available at the front of the door and grab off the wire at that open area next to the air box.






    The just connect up your wire to the battery and don't forget the fuse.




    There was a piece of plastic next to the battery and I just zip tied the fuse onto it.

    Now I just fed the 4 gauge wire into the car using the same hole that the rest of the cables used. You can either go under the edge of the rubber or you'll have to cuz a hole into the rubber otherwise. The edge of the metal was not sharp so I just fed under the rubber gasket.


    Then I routed the cable under the quarter panel trim pieces.


    While you have the quarter panel trim off you can run the remote wire along with the power wire. To devise a remote wire that turns the amp on when the car turns on since you can't tap into the radio I used the fused side of the cigarette lighter. I figure it is the least used circuit and will have the least power draw so the amp has decent power going to it to turn it on. I used a wire tap so I didn't have to cut the wire, seems the easiest route to take. The (Blue wire with small white line) is the power wire for the cigarette lighter.


    There are clips that you can use to secure the 4 gauge wire and the remote wire, don't even need zipties.


    Then to get the wires to the trunk you can use the dowel again and pull the wires through underside of the back seat.




    Now to get the sound I just tapped into the back left speaker using a tap that converts to phono out for the amp input. You need to drill a hole infront of the speaker to gain access to the speaker wires.


    Then tap into the wires and tuck the wire taps in the little area infront of the speaker.


    Then using double sided sticky tape just stick the audio tap onto the back side of the seats and ground the audio tap.




    And then just connect up your wires and your good to go.

    IMPORTANT!!!
    You'll need at least 25 ft. of 4 gauge wire to reach from the battery to the trunk with a little to spare. 30 ft if you want to put the sub(s) on the right side of car.

    Happy Thumping

  2. #2
    Experienced TGC Member jimmy_o2's Avatar
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    nice work A+
    03 I4

  3. #3
    2 quick suggestions. lose the squeeze taps and put grommets in the holes u drilled so u don't wear through the insulation in the wire.

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  4. #4
    rocgalant
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    Excellente!

  5. #5
    Senior TGC Member ricky_db's Avatar
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    ok work.. for oem lovers

  6. #6
    Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, for posting this Sub n Amp install explanation!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I have installed systems in 3 or 4 cars b4 and let me tell ya w/o this explanation showing the best way to get the power cable from the engine compartment to the insideof the car I would have been dead in the water!!! This vehicle fire wall is really tough to get wires thru. Thank god for this I was able to do it all by myself with very few problems along the way.

    A+++

    now if only someone knew how to get the amp signal leads from the stock upgrade Rockford Design stereo head unit to the factory amp so I can send a clean unamplified signal to my sub amp, then that would be awesome!!!!!!!!!
    That way I wouldnt need to tap into my speakers and use an adjustable line output converter to feed my sub amp a signal.

    Does anyone think this is worth doing to get a cleaner signal and maybee deeper clearer bass?

  7. #7
    TGC Regular youngin3's Avatar
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    I like it minus the wire taps.

    That is almost exactly how I did mine, but I didn't rig it to the back speaker. I used the RCA outputs on the head unit. (Aftermarket)

  8. #8
    TGC Regular bsilver23's Avatar
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    i like the part with the dowel getting the power wire to the battery, but i am trying to figure out how you were able to feed the other end through the firewall hole that the other wires went through. there isnt much room in the gap when you open the door, so i was just wondering what technique you used to feed the wire into the car?
    Bryan - TGCWI - 6g72 5 speed


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  9. #9
    rocgalant
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsilver23 View Post
    i like the part with the dowel getting the power wire to the battery, but i am trying to figure out how you were able to feed the other end through the firewall hole that the other wires went through. there isnt much room in the gap when you open the door, so i was just wondering what technique you used to feed the wire into the car?
    Well it's not exactly a hole in the firewall that you go through. If you open the driver's side door and look towards the firewall (example- you will be looking towards the front of the car), you will see a piece of black padding there. Just take the padding off. If your in good light, you will see the light from the engine bay pour into that area. That's where you want to fish the wire through. Now, if my memory serves me correctly (I did it outside in Pennsylvania in January- not too bright), that will put the wire into the wheel well. This was a ***** for me. There's a grommet that leads into the car. I basically used a screwdriver to open the hole as much as I could. I pushed my 'fishing pole' (it was a plastic rod used to push/pull cable for telecommunications but whatever you have would work I guess) midway through the hole, then attached the remaining end to the wire with electric tape and pulled it through. It was probably the most annoying part of the entire install. Well good luck. I think I still have pics from when I did it. Let me know.

  10. #10
    TGC Regular bsilver23's Avatar
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    ok thanks, i will take a look. this is definately the hardest part of the install.
    Bryan - TGCWI - 6g72 5 speed


    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3376567

  11. #11
    Experienced TGC Member fliegendaffe's Avatar
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    I don't agree with going through the door jam. as well as where you tapped the LOC into, it should be tapped in pre-amp.

  12. #12
    With the infinity system, it's a digital signal that goes to the amplifier. There would be no good way of tapping the line-out converter before the amplifier. I am an MECP Advanced installer....I had to make my own wiring harness out of a pre 2004 galant amp bypass kit to put in an aftermarket radio..

    Oh, and you can save about 5 ft. of power wire by just drilling through the firewall behind the battery. wire gets expensive....




    Bk

  13. #13
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Corey2kG's Avatar
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    I have Infinity in my 8G 7 speakers btw. But putting a sub n amp to a stock radio is not the same as with an aftermarket radio...imo But everyone has there own taste. A friend of mine did that setup in his girls cobalt it sounded good but not as loud and didnt thump as hard. again imo.

    FreakyDeaky

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    Always remember "do you, not them" cuz thats what make you different than others :)
    2kG 6g72/74 5 speed

  14. #14
    rocgalant
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey2000Galant View Post
    I have Infinity in my 8G 7 speakers btw. But putting a sub n amp to a stock radio is not the same as with an aftermarket radio...imo But everyone has there own taste. A friend of mine did that setup in his girls cobalt it sounded good but not as loud and didnt thump as hard. again imo.
    Yeah I think you're right because most h/u have a 2v pre-amp output (mine is 4v), which as I understand, produces a louder, clearer sound. I had a LOC on my 9g for a year, then recently got an aftermarket h/u and I think the pre-amp from the h/u made a noticeable difference in the sound

  15. #15
    Experienced TGC Member fliegendaffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocgalant View Post
    Yeah I think you're right because most h/u have a 2v pre-amp output (mine is 4v), which as I understand, produces a louder, clearer sound. I had a LOC on my 9g for a year, then recently got an aftermarket h/u and I think the pre-amp from the h/u made a noticeable difference in the sound
    higher volts for the preamp outs, make the amp work not as hard, thus giving you a better sound

  16. #16
    TGC Regular youngin3's Avatar
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    This is one reason I love cars that put the battery in the trunk. (Cobalt was mentioned earlier.)

  17. #17
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    Honestly I don't care if it's stock or not. The stock 6 speaker Infinity system in the GTS sounds pretty damn good IMO. And you'd have to shell out quite a bit to get better than what is in there already. I just wanted a bit of thump since that was the only thing lacking. Plus this is just a baseline to install a sub. I'm sure there are a few improvements to my installation that could be done that were mentioned, but either way, it got the job done and it sounds exactly how I wanted it to.

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