So i got a hold of a V6 TB for my 2.4I, transferred the hardware needed from my old throttle body to the new, installed it, and at first i was getting 4k RPM idle!!! I noticed one of the connecting radiator hoses to the TB was crimped. I fixed that, but now the car stumbles in idle about every 5-10 seconds. I want to say it is a vacuum leak, but i never had that problem with the original TB, and I was very careful removing the old TB as not to break or bend the manifold.
FYI: the TB from the eclipse V6 is not a perfect fit. The connecting pipes to the TB for the Radiator fluid are pointing in different directions from the one made for the 2.4I. This is what caused the crimp. I had to go get heater hose to run a long loop so the hose would not crimp. Also the the stock plenum is only fitted for the stock TB meaning that manifold needs to be ported to take full advantage of the Tb ( i expected that though).
Has anyone had this issue before?
Last edited by mstester; 01-14-2009 at 02:02 PM
It is not necessary to run the coolant lines to the throttle body, unless you are in a very cold climate. You can just block off the coolant lines on the TB and just recirc the original lines from the engine. The coolant lines should not be affecting your idle anyway.
that's what i thought, but oddly enough when i plugged it back into the TB the idle went back down, and I regained boost to my brakes. which sensor says to the ECU that the TB is up to temp in cold scenarios. maybe that is faulty and causing super duper high idle? maybe. ( ah the joys of trouble shooting)
do you think the idle control went bad just by removing it and plugging it back? is there a wrong way to reattach that?
I also thought the throttle cable was too tight causing the 4k idle so i loosened the idle cable with the two 10mm bolts and still nothing there.
I will try to recirculate the coolant i just don't get the 4k idle then and loss of braking.
i am also going to put back on the original TB and see if the problem goes away. if it does i will be perplexed, if not then i have a vacuum leak which i will have to find. either way its wak-central up in the place.
the other thing is i am using the gasket made for the 2.4I TB and it seems to fit, but maybe i should try the v6 gasket. the leak could be from there if there is a leak...
Last edited by mstester; 01-14-2009 at 03:29 PM
Loosing brake boost sounds like a vacuum problem.
Post a pic of the setup - something sounds off.
k i will take pics tonight TB set up. thanks for the input though:)
alright everything is hooked up properly and there is no vacuum leak. I bypassed the coolant lines on the TB with a new heater hose. I just took pictures and its was dark so i don't how good they are nor does it really show anything special (i will put them up when i get to work cause that where my sony erricson usb cable is).
I disconnected the short ram, started the car, and VILOA! the idle return to 500 rpm with a stumble ranging from 500-300 rpm ( same as when i gave it the TB cleaner treatment). SO i thought that was a good sign. I put the the short ram back on and back 4000 rpm idle, and then took it off again and back to 500. So now it I think the MAF for the 2.4I does not the does not like the V6 TB.
I am going to put back together the 2.4I TB see if the problem exists, and go from there.
so i put back together my stock TB and all is back to normal! I guess the TB from a V6 is meant to only be combined with the intake manifold from a V6. I will keep the TB and now try to get the manifold and see what those results are.
A lot of guys are running the V6 tb on the I4 without a problem. The I4 and our V6 tb is set up the same way, so unless you somehow install it uncorrectly, there shouldn't be a problem. If you had to port the mani to allow the butterfly to open fully, but used the stock I4 gasket, than that's a problem right there, you just undid the work on the manifold. So use the V6 gasket. Also, I'm sure you just worded it wrong, but you obviously can't use the V6 mani, and I would sort out this problem before anything else anyway.Originally Posted by mstester
OKAY, so it turns out you should not bypass the IAC on our rides. The coolant is used in what is called a step count that controls the basic idle functions in ECU. The step count contains a value from 0-100(100 on cold start), and provides idle stabilization during hot starts.
The ECU will increase steps to adjust idle speed or to allow additional air through the throttle body for the reasons listed above. ISC step count often increases at higher cruise speeds and during WOT operation (Hence my 4k idle problem).
more could be understood about our TB setups and there is even a how to on this link:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-isc-iac.htm
since i have put my TB back together i have thrown a code and the idle is up to 1500-2100 rpm idle with lines bybassing IAC. going to reconnect that and see if I didnt bust my IAC **crossing fingers cause i didnt have this prob prior to TB swap. WAK :P
you somehow install it uncorrectly, there shouldn't be a problem. If you had to port the mani to allow the butterfly to open fully, but used the stock I4 gasket, than that's a problem right there, you just undid the work on the manifold.
You do not need to port the manifold to achieve WOT, but if i did get it to work some how I would have to perform a port or I would receive zero gain as the manifold's diameter is designed for the 2.4I TB only. I did not use my 2.4 gasket I used the one for the v6(special order btw), but either way your work is for nothing unless you port mani; 2.4 gasket or not.
Also I understand that IAC in the link above is for the v6 and not the 4cyl. I will post pictures showing the difference soon.
I m going to OHM test it. Does anyone know the OHM for the IAC 2.4L? I have to go find my manual somewhere :(
Last edited by mstester; 01-18-2009 at 02:18 AM
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2001 Mitsubishi Galant GTZ
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