you and me both, timing belt area is my kryptonite
Need someone to do this for me in the tri-state area.
And while at it maybe a balance shaft eleimination.
I may be able to do it, but it may take a few days and Im not really sure about some stuff.
you and me both, timing belt area is my kryptonite
i might be able to take a look at it . Im sure that if no can do it for you a couple mechanically inclined minds could figure it out...
ya I was afraid to do my timing belt as well but then I took it to a professional shop with 1000hp+ Supra and they changed my timing belt while I was watching there every move...
Now my 7g runs nice but I still have to put on my bs belt :(
Not hard at all imo as long as u start at tdc and place a screwdriver or something in that hole (back of the block)
---||| 97Galant, E3 16G, Safc, 5spd,Drifter Body |||---
Its not hard, I am a professional by now. Bring your car to Iowa, I will hook you up :P
7g for life!
Iowa is really far for him to travel just for the timing belt lol
Too bad you aren't closer man...I would do it for you.
The hardest part for me to do on a timing belt job is getting the new timing belt on and getting all the TDC marks aligned at the same time, but thats not biggy.
1991 Galant VR4 1948/2000_________1996 Galant "S" 5 speed 2.4L turbo
x2. I hate lining up all the marks. The way i do mine is ill get all the shit lined up on the old belt. Mark all the timing marks on the belt in white. When i remove it ill have a belt thats there and i know works so before installing the new belt i just put the old one up and see if it lines up. BTW. The only way to do a real balance shaft removal is to pull the motor unfortunately. You can just not put the balance shaft belt back on but im not sure how that will work. If you do it like that you dont have to worry about getting the oil pump timing marks dead on.
I pulled both shafts with the motor in the car. Have to lower the driverside down as far as you can go and either also remove the subframe, or pull the shaft out half way like I did, and cut it in half, then the second half pulls out just fine :)
7g for life!
Took me 15 minutes to cut both shafts :P
But back on topic.
7g for life!
thanks guys!
I can probably do it, but im not sure how to use that little tool that has two pins and it goes into the roller. I dont know how much i shoiuld torque it. I dont want to overtorque it and snap the belt after time........I dont have another car.
Also, is there a tool to extract the main seal, or just use some small screwdriver.
Seth, I was looking in vfaq about the balance shaft removal, and it kinda confusing.
Ive never used the little tool. You want to tighten the bolts a good bit just dont get too manly with it. You can pick up a seal picker tool. Kinda looks like the tool that dentists use on your teeth to remove tartar. if u use a screw driver be careful not to scratch the crank surface.
I too never used that tool that you are describing. Its used to make the pulley apply tension to the Tbelt. I got crafty and wrapped a good amount of tape on a flathead screwdriver (To act as cushion to prevent damage to the pulley) and used the screwdriver to apply tension to the pulley and tightened the pulley. I believe its about 40lbs of touque for the pulleys..but I can verify that.
1991 Galant VR4 1948/2000_________1996 Galant "S" 5 speed 2.4L turbo
Not to really be off topic but what is the advantage of taking the balance shaft out?? My belt was broken for a long time and now that its on my car runs differant lol i dont really like how it runs with it on.
As for doing the tbelt, its not that hard just soak the lower sprocket with some pentrant oil for a couple hours it took me a while to get the big bolt off but all in all the tbelt change wasn't that hard. you can make a tool like i did to move the cam just take a piece of wood about a foot and a half long drill some holes in it and put some half inch bolts about 3 inchs long through, it works really well to move the timing to tdc.
1996 galant s
finishing up my 2.4L DOHC, 10.5:1, precision sc60, meth injected MONSTER.
Eliminating the balance shafts reduce the rotational mass. Think of it as like eliminating the a/c compressor....its 1 less thing the crank has to help rotate. Eliminating the Bshafts eliminate the rotating weight of the crank thus making the motor more "free revving".
1991 Galant VR4 1948/2000_________1996 Galant "S" 5 speed 2.4L turbo
I didnt use any tools to replace my rear main seal excelt a couple screw drivers. If they make a tool to take the seal out, that would be easier lol.
For the t-belt, you dont need any special tools. To tension the tbelt while the motor is in the car, I used a L allen key and a pair of vice grips. See this post:
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/show...66&postcount=5
And the BS removal isnt hard. Theres a couple ways to do it. For the front shaft, you can just take off the belt and leave the shaft. If you want to save 3-4lbs, you can take the shaft out and install a freeze plug and new block off bearings. For the rear, you have to take the old shaft out that is attached to the oilpump sprocket and replace the entire shaft with the Mitsu OEM stubbie shaft. If you just leave the belt off the front and dont use the stubbie shaft, you will have a good deal of vibration and only 1/2 accomplish the bs delete.
7g for life!
1996 galant s
finishing up my 2.4L DOHC, 10.5:1, precision sc60, meth injected MONSTER.
Bookmarks