Jesus i need help!

[silver01g]

Well installing the coilover as we speak, and i cant seem to figure out the front? how do you adjust the height? i need info asap pictures can be helpful as well.

[qnz]

these are Teins but they all work the same. you adjust the height at C, adjust the top half of C to adjust the height. The bottom half of C is to lock the ring in place so it doesnt move when you drive. To loosen the locking ring you spin the 2 rings away from each other. to lock them together, you spin them towards each other.

[qnz]

when you compress the srping, the ride will be lower. if you expand the srping you will have a higher ride height.

make sure the locking ring is tight. otherwise it might move up or down on you and you'll end up with one corner of your car out of wack. haha.

[fatal1]

aaron i believe the d2's are more like the flex setup

try not to adjust the top perch it will adjust the spring rate of the car and it should be set from the factory...after you get it all working correctly you can pay with it a little... to fine tweak it

what you have to do is unlok the bottom perch then using your hand, literally grab hold of the strut (and spring for that matter). then with the car jacked up and wheel off turn it with your hands so the threads begin to go down into the bottom of the strut assembly...then tighten the bottom perch back with the wrench so it locks...take a tape measure and measure the gap from the top of the lower perch to the bottom of the 1st spring perch (the locking perch) make sure to write down what the measurement is so you will make the 2 corners even...

same for the rear...although i find it easier to just remove the bottom bolt and just turn the bottom of the shock for the initial lowering instead of using my hand since its only the one bolt

[silver01g]

ok my car feels like SHIT! the front wont drop the rear is slammed, the car bounces no matter what i do, the car isnt driving right. what am i doing wrong?

All i want is a finger gap from the wheel and fender.

[qnz]

if you have D2's. you can adjust the height the same way I posted above. but the better way would be to adjust the height at H.



first find the spring pre-load you will want. the shorter you make the spring, the more stiff the ride will be. the taller you make the spring, the softer it will be. you want the spring taller. after you choose the right pre-load, you adjust the height of the shock at H, this will make your car lower or higher while not messing with the pre-load.

but since youre asking for help, you might want to take it to a suspension shop and have them tune your setup. they'll be able to corner balance it and all that good stuff

[silver01g]

ok i got the stiffen part out, tried the way you first said to do with the spring and the front did stiffen up it doesnt want to bounce at all. so i will loosen that up.

but on the H part the higher i go with it to drop it, the tie rod points up. looks way off. it doesnt look right. and the higher i go the endlink doesnt reach the bracket.

well its sunday and i dont have the money at the moment to spell on taken it somewhere.

Here are some photos:



What is this for? it came with the kit?

[RedGalant2k1]

Leaving the bottom knuckle bolt tight, you need to loose the top strut knuckle bolt pictured in red below:


THEN do what Qnz said to adjust ride height, if you leave that step out the knuckle doesn't move, period. The D2s did not come with ride height adjustment directions? My megans did?/

Below is a picture of the JIC coilovers, but the D2 and Megan general design is the same. Notice the difference with the Tein Flex setup? Either way you can't adjust the ride height in the front on the D2's, Megan's, or JIC's without doing what I've said above.

[Stewi]

but on the H part the higher i go with it to drop it, the tie rod points up. looks way off. it doesnt look right. and the higher i go the endlink doesnt reach the bracket.

thank you for this bit of info, this is what gets you the right answer.

The tie rod will start to point up a bit as you lower it, because you are essentially raising the knuckle up higher. This shouldnt really be a big issue.


As for the endlink not reaching, the only reason that would happen is if your doing it with only one side of the car jacked up. In order to really slam it, you need both sides jacked up. With one side down, your putting tension on the sway bar, not allowing it to move upward in order to attach the link. Do it with the entire front jacked up and you wont have this problem.

[silver01g]

ok ok doesnt it matter if im on a car lift? all four wheels are off the ground.

[qnz]

Red,

Im not familiar with the Megans or D2s look, but I would assume he needs to take off both bottom bolts in order to spin the length of the body up and down. unless theyre designed differently than the Teins?

[silver01g]

well that part does spin when you unlock both up and lower parts

[fatal1]

Red,

Im not familiar with the Megans or D2s look, but I would assume he needs to take off both bottom bolts in order to spin the length of the body up and down. unless theyre designed differently than the Teins?

correct, also i have never had to loosen the bolt you circled in red either?

you have 2 options, as i stated before you can loosen the bottom lock where the threads meet the strut assembly or H accoring to the picture. then as i said before grab hold tight of the threaded tube or E as puctured (mine is low and i have to grab the spring and threaded tube as well to get a good grip to turn) and turn it with your hands (you may have to loosen the lock up top for this as well to reduce friction and make it easier to turn depending on how stiff the spring is)

it will go down but as i said before just make sure you measure the one side once you are happy so you can meet the same specs on the other side.


the other option you have is as qnz said. you can disconnect all the bolts to you can freely turn the bottom this in essence is faster however with as you said the endlink will be much higher then the bracket. as im sure you are aware the solution to this is to pry down the swaybar until you can get it to reach the bracket,

its rather easy either way its just a bit hard to type it out as far as instructions without pictures lol hope i helped a bit though

[RedGalant2k1]

correct, also i have never had to loosen the bolt you circled in red either?

Just stating what the directions Megan had for lowering the front struts. I'll see if I can find and scan the directions into my computer.

[RedGalant2k1]

[Stewi]

ok ok doesnt it matter if im on a car lift? all four wheels are off the ground.

if all four wheels are off the ground, you shouldnt have any tension on the swaybar unless one side suspension is super high and the other is super low. Your best bet is to leave the end links disconnected from the struts until you gain the ride height you want, then connect it to both sides at the same time.

[silver01g]

This is why i love this forum!! I Love You Guys,lol. but as late as it is i wont be able to fix my problem til tomorrow. The guy thats helping me works at a rim shop so im using the car lift there and cuz they were closed today, but i have to wait til after hours tomorrow. so thanks a lot guys ya'll gave me some good help.

[spdracr]

take pics for us when the wheels are off

good luck with your work and keep us posted, the guys already beat me to the answer

[silver01g]

yeah i forgot my camera this morning, but when i get back under there to adjust everything ill be sure to take some photos.

[mko]

I had the same problem with my lowering springs back in the day. The rear ones were very short and were sagging the rear end, and the front wheel gap was huge



You need to raise that rear a little. Raise it, and see what happent to the front, I bet it will come down.