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Thread: 6A12TT Help Required

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  1. #21
    Moderator mko's Avatar
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    could be the shock bushing, very posible tho. Also, you might wanna check the front sway bar bushings, the best way is to disconnect one of the end links and try to move the bar up and down. You also wanna check the lateral cotrol arm ball joints, there was a recall here in US on these bolts The popping noise, I ve had it twice - 1. it was the sway bar bushing and 2. Lower control arm balljoint. About the "wa wa wa" noise see if your wheels are balanced
    Last edited by mko; 02-22-2009 at 01:06 PM
    God created turbo lag to give the v8's a brief moment of hope.



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  2. #22
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    Hmmmm...... might be the clutch/gearbox, when was the last time you changed the g/box oil ?
    and what oil did you use ?

    It may pay to drop the g/box and check the clutch etc for anything out of place
    1994 Galant VR-4 GOKUH ( 230kw atw )
    2000 Legnum VR-4 ( Daily, 155.5kw atw )
    1997 Legnum VR-4 - Yes Another one
    1995 FTO - V6 Mivec 200hp

  3. #23
    Hmmmmm i dont think its the clutch tho as regardless if i press/depress the clutch pedal, It doesnt change the noise im hearing, I changed all the oils about 3 days ago, It has been doing this noise ever since i got the car a few weeks ago tho. The oils i used were the oils we use in the gearboxs and diffs on trucks where i work( Dynadrive/syntrans). I wouldnt thing the noise id be getting would be audable at 20mph with unbalanced wheels but its worth a try i suppose, Ill also check all the bushing/arms again as soon as possible. Ill keep you updated

  4. #24
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    What viscosity is the oil you used ?

    Truck g/box oils are generally thicker than whats required/recommended for cars, esp our ones.
    1994 Galant VR-4 GOKUH ( 230kw atw )
    2000 Legnum VR-4 ( Daily, 155.5kw atw )
    1997 Legnum VR-4 - Yes Another one
    1995 FTO - V6 Mivec 200hp

  5. #25
    Ok regarding the noisy transmission noise i spoke of, I said it made no difference if the clutch was dipped or not, I was wrong, with the clutch pressed, The noise stops. So i suppose thats one problem diagnosed :). Just now the limited to 12psi of boost problem

  6. #26
    ok then your pilot bearing is gone.

    there is no cure other than replacing it, but there is also rarely any failure caused by that other than some noise.

  7. #27
    Ah thats good to know. Well im completly baffled as to getting more than 12psi, Its not because its only a 2L twin turbo is it?, Tried all sorts of piping methods etc, also check operation of actuators etc all seem ok, Just will not go above 12psi, Surly im doing something wrong somewhere hmmmm.

  8. #28
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    No, it should boost higher than that.

    I'm only running stock turbo's on mine than they are at 14.5, have you tried free boosting it yet ?
    1994 Galant VR-4 GOKUH ( 230kw atw )
    2000 Legnum VR-4 ( Daily, 155.5kw atw )
    1997 Legnum VR-4 - Yes Another one
    1995 FTO - V6 Mivec 200hp

  9. #29
    how do i free boost?, Also Just an update, I bought a T piece joiner for the pipes and chucked that 4way block away as it broke anyway, Ive removed the Tap as a test, I now have the actuators piped into the T piece, then a pipe coming from the T piece to the standard solenoid (bottom port) the top port has the pipe coming from the intake just after the maf sensor, The pipe from inlet area i have blocked off now. With this setup im boosting still at 12psi meaning :-/ im completly headfooked. The boost solenoid detects the boost within the inlet chamber right? As i have a boost guage piped into this. The solenoid next to it im assuming is what controls the actuators now.

  10. #30
    Can someone draw me a crude drawing like mine For the 6a12tt engine, As to how it should be piped up, Including all the vac lines and where they are connected and where exactly i should plumb in my boost gauge? Also where i would need to fit the tap. Then that way i can check if its correct.
    Please :)
    Last edited by ukbiker; 02-24-2009 at 01:16 PM

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ukbiker View Post
    how do i free boost?, Also Just an update, I bought a T piece joiner for the pipes and chucked that 4way block away as it broke anyway, Ive removed the Tap as a test, I now have the actuators piped into the T piece, then a pipe coming from the T piece to the standard solenoid (bottom port) the top port has the pipe coming from the intake just after the maf sensor, The pipe from inlet area i have blocked off now. With this setup im boosting still at 12psi meaning :-/ im completly headfooked. The boost solenoid detects the boost within the inlet chamber right? As i have a boost guage piped into this. The solenoid next to it im assuming is what controls the actuators now.

    By doing what you just did you are free boosting, I think your turbo's are shagged, or you have a boost leak as previously stated.
    1994 Galant VR-4 GOKUH ( 230kw atw )
    2000 Legnum VR-4 ( Daily, 155.5kw atw )
    1997 Legnum VR-4 - Yes Another one
    1995 FTO - V6 Mivec 200hp

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ukbiker View Post
    Can someone draw me a crude drawing like mine For the 6a12tt engine, As to how it should be piped up, Including all the vac lines and where they are connected and where exactly i should plumb in my boost gauge? Also where i would need to fit the tap. Then that way i can check if its correct.
    Please :)
    I think I have a pic of mine when it was stock, I'll have a look.
    1994 Galant VR-4 GOKUH ( 230kw atw )
    2000 Legnum VR-4 ( Daily, 155.5kw atw )
    1997 Legnum VR-4 - Yes Another one
    1995 FTO - V6 Mivec 200hp

  13. #33
    I have a jap version of how its suppost to be piped up as stock, And i followed it. But all that did was boost at stock boost, and with a tap fitted, It would boost To a max of 12.5psi. Now i have it piped up disregarding this 4way connection which it has in the stock setup, So that instead of a 4 way i have a 3way(t-piece) which has both actuators piped to it and then a pipe running from that t-piece to the standard solenoid.(Note, I did also try connecting it up as stock with the 4way connection exactly how the diagram said and fitted the tap where it would cause it to boost more and still it only boosted to 12). Basically, No matter what i do i cant reach above 12.5psi, I know i dont have boost leak as ud see it on the boost guage i suppose. When i hit boost it does boost quite quick and the needle litterally shoots to 12.5 without hesitation and then stops as if it hit a needle stop. Im using 2 boost guages also, incase one was faulty but both do the same,
    Last edited by ukbiker; 02-24-2009 at 04:22 PM

  14. #34
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    Hmmm..... maybe one of the boost gauges is leaking slightly
    1994 Galant VR-4 GOKUH ( 230kw atw )
    2000 Legnum VR-4 ( Daily, 155.5kw atw )
    1997 Legnum VR-4 - Yes Another one
    1995 FTO - V6 Mivec 200hp

  15. #35
    Nope lol, checked that, perfectly sealed. Is there anywhere else that could be restricting me to 12psi. surly the ecu has no control over the turbos boost as its run by exhaust gases, and only way it could stop that would be to restrict air/fuel. Yet it does neither. And the standard solenoid i have it piped into controls the vaccume for the actuators. Could the boost pressure solenoid be affecting it? This is what the boost guage is piped into. (note. this boost solenoid is piped up as it says to pipe it up in the stock jap vacume diagram).
    I noticed that standing in front of the car, on the left side of the engine at the front, below the battery there is a small diaphram and then a larger one near it with a large pipe connecting to the intake pipe and another smaller one coming from the diaphram and piping into the bottom of the throttle body area, Whats this for? could this restrict to 12psi if it was fubar?
    Last edited by ukbiker; 02-25-2009 at 12:29 PM

  16. #36
    This may be of help, went to see how fast she'd go and speed cut out at about 115mph, Isnt this a speed limiter/fuel cut thing? could be my problem!?

  17. #37
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    No, the limiter is to protect to motor at high revs, you're problem is much earlier in the rev range.
    What size intercooler do you have ?
    1994 Galant VR-4 GOKUH ( 230kw atw )
    2000 Legnum VR-4 ( Daily, 155.5kw atw )
    1997 Legnum VR-4 - Yes Another one
    1995 FTO - V6 Mivec 200hp

  18. #38
    You are here entirely tooo much!! seth98esT's Avatar
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    Take your manual boost controller apart. Does it have the ball bearing on the otherside of the bolt? I bought a NEW MBC once and the ball bearing was missing! I was pissed.
    7g for life!

  19. #39
    Or like I'd say EBC is the ONLY way to go.

    This is 2009. Don't be an idiot. Used EBCs are cheap and you can try out different setups from within the cockpit.

    It's only when a EBC fails, then you know you have a real problem. Otherwise it's mostly vac and leak this and that you can troubleshoot it into next year with no real solutions.

  20. #40
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    Eh, MBC's are fine for minimal increases

    I just use a GFB Atomic MBC
    1994 Galant VR-4 GOKUH ( 230kw atw )
    2000 Legnum VR-4 ( Daily, 155.5kw atw )
    1997 Legnum VR-4 - Yes Another one
    1995 FTO - V6 Mivec 200hp

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