4g63t / AWD 7g Build

[Shadow19]

For that price ill pay for wiseco pistons and not have to machine anything down. Good find thoguh.

[eclipsh]

For the 7 bolt block and rods there is no machining at all. I have a friend with some forged 7 bolt rods I can buy. If the combo will work for strokers it'll drop my price by $300+.

My dad came by with a 13" long piece of 3"x3" 1/4" thick angle iron yesterday for the carrier bearing base. I drilled out some holes to slip it over the front gas tank studs then we marked out the holes where the exhaust hangar used to bolt up at the end of the tunnel and drilled some holes there as well. We now have four bolts to hold the steel in place and can weld it to the unibody in a few spots too. We'll be adding some 2" square, 1/4" wall, box steel to either side for dropping some bolts through for hangar studs. I think I'll hit the hardware store and pick up some log bolts that will drop through the angle iron and box steel for studs and weld the heads to the angle iron. Hopefully I'll get some pictures of all this up later today.

[phizzalot]

Wow, i can't believe I skipped over this thread so many times...Nice work nick, Iam glad to see the progress you have made and the pics you have taken. Iam interested as well to see your setup in the rear for attaching the carrier bearing and exhaust.

Have you thought of using a one piece aluminum driveshaft? I know a lot of evos here in south florida are switching out for one.

Also I was wondering if you changed the front subframe out for the awd trans/center diff?

[DOHCstunr]

front subframes are the same. no need to switch them out.

[eclipsh]

^ What he said and thanks :) I looked into a one piece but I've heard they like to vibrate too much at high speeds and that they have to be so thick that it'd be unfeasible for this project. A two piece shaft should work just fine.

I ended up spending today working on the front end. I got my A/C pump bolted up after some struggling. It turns out the bracket for mounting it is different on the Galant and the Talon so I had to swap those. Believe it or not, that ended up chewing away the entire morning.

After that I bolted the transfer case in, hooked up the clutch slave cylinder and attached the heater hoses.

I also got the front cross member and motor mount bolted on. The Talon's mount was shot so I ended up using the A/T mount which was wider and still in great shape.

The last thing I did was bolt up the passenger front suspension and axle. It looks like replacing all the ball joints will be a summer project. They're all a bit worn but still in safe condition so for now I'm opting to just get the car together and rolling.

[seth98esT]

I renamed the thread since its no longer really about a 1g harness / ECU :P

Keep up the work man, post more pics!

[eclipsh]

Thanks for the rename Seth. I can't believe I didn't realize you're the same Seth as over on Tuners :p

I forgot to mention one other thing about yesterday. I was hooking up the alternator when I found that the Galant used the 1g DSM connections which are very different than the 2g DSM connections. So I swapped the alternators out and attached the wiring. Thankfully the power steering pump didn't have any issues and bolted right up.

So for those trying this in the future know that the 94 Galant uses the same alternator and A/C bracket as a 1g DSM. It would have been much easier to swap these out with both engines still out of the car :p

[akamikeymo]

Damn, this thread is really turning out to be full of great information. Keep it up.

[eclipsh]

Well it is my weekend again. This morning I split the driveshaft at the CV joint and took the rear portion to be shortened. I'll be having 1.5" removed to line it up perfectly with the center of the unibody brace just behind the tunnel. The other day I installed my injectors and rail as well as the driver's half shaft. I'll finish installing the suspension on the drivers side this afternoon and see what else I can get done. Maybe I'll wrap up the wiring today/tomorrow and get it connected.

My next dilemma will be cooling the intake charge. I am debating going with a cheap FMIC or this liquid/air setup. The second would be nice but more expensive since a friend will help me make my intercooler piping for next to nothing. It'd also be heavier but easier to package and more efficient. Well enough BS, time to get to work.

[phizzalot]

NIce updates... how did that custom angle iron hanger turn out for the carrier bearing?

will you be welding it to the unibody or is that just an option for later?

Just curious to see the piece because if you just bolt it up than your awd swap will be relatively easy to replicate with it.
any pics??

[eclipsh]

The angle iron piece hasn't changed any yet. I'm waiting to get the driveshaft tomorrow to add the mounting points to it. Here's a pic if the piece.



I got the front suspension and axles all in and done with today. Not terribly exciting but it is one more step done.




I also got the radiator in but I haven't messed with the fan wiring yet.



Lastly I replaced the capacitors in the ECU with the correct ones and swapped it into the Galant case. The EPROM cover fit the Galant case so I used it and routed the Ostrich wiring out the bottom of it.



I also added the wires for the reverse light switch and pulled the factory knock sensor wiring from my spare harness and added it in. I'm still missing wires at pins 7, 13, 63, and 66 on the 1g ecu. I'm pretty stumped by what I should hook up there.

Pin 7 is the air conditioner switch
Pin 13 is the control relay (fuel pump drive signal)
Pin 63 and 66 both go to MPI control relay pin 8 on a 1g DSM.

I don't know where to go with these and could use some help.

[eclipsh]

I got the driveshaft back yesterday with 1.5" taken out. It lines up perfectly. My dad came by and helped make the mounting points and took it back to his place to finish up the welds as it was too cold and windy outside to finish it at my house and too dangerous inside. I also picked up the radiator hoses I needed and worked on more wiring.

I need some help on this last bit of wiring for the MPI/MFI relay and could use some input on making sure everything else is wired up right if anyone feels like going over it.

Looking at the diagram below, it looks like the Galant takes pin 6 of the MPI relay straight to ground along with pins 13 and 26 of the ECU.



In the 1g ECU pin 8 of the MPI relay looks like it carries out the same function but goes to pins 63 and 66 of the 1g ECU rather than to ground.



What I'm wondering is if I should cut the wire from pin 6 of the Galant relay to route it to pins 63 and 66 of the 1g ECU or if I should just continue to let it run to ground and skip wiring up the two 1g ECU pins.

[DOHCstunr]

If i get a chance
i'll pull back my carpet this afternoon and tell you what i did.

I left ALL the wire labels on so i could easily identify galant harness/1g ecu pins

I don't remember even having an issue with that one.

[eclipsh]

Thank you :)

A minor update for this morning; I got the AWD fuel pump wires soldered and wrapped so it is ready to go. There are a few extra wires for the ABS mixed in that I eliminated since my car doesn't have ABS and adding it would be a royal PITA.

I also swapped the speed sensor from the Galant a/t over to the DSM M/T in case it would effect the odometer or speedometer.

[DOHCstunr]

i'm pretty sure they are the same sensor as far as speedo goes. I mean... its all about ticks per mile.

on the 7g the ABS is 100% completely independant of the ecu.
I do have ABS on my 7g and did not bother to hook the 1g pin for ABS to anything. i just capped it off.
So no worries there.

[eclipsh]

On the 2g DSM it also has a seperate ECU for the ABS but I'd have to separate out the wiring from the main harness, pull the pump and hard lines and a whole mess of other stuff I just didn't want to deal with.

I also left the 1g ABS connector alone. It was the wires that were part of the gas tank harness for the AWD tank that I yanked out. Did you get a chance to check your wires? I'm paranoid as hell about the wiring since I REALLY don't want to pull it back out and rewire anything after it is in.

EDIT: Never mind on pins 63 and 66. I just cut the ground wire from the relay and routed it to the pins.

[eclipsh]

I managed to scrounge up a little help with the car this morning. It is about time they did something useful.



Last night my dad came by and we fit the new carrier bearing mount to the car. This morning I drilled and tapped some holes in the tube and dropped two 10x1.25 bolts through as studs for the carrier.





After that I bolted it up into the car and snapped a quick pic.



When I can I'll be taking the car to a professional welder to have the welds cleaned up and have the piece welded to the body of the car. With the welds and studs I think it will be more than enough to carry the drive shaft.

I slid the 3" exhaust from the Talon donor in to check fitment. Of course it is too short but the important thing is that it will squeeze past the carrier bearing without being too low. I'll need to straighten out a section in the exhaust and add some length to it but otherwise it should work fine.

I also added some studs for the front of the gas tank. I'll need to wait to add the rear studs until I measure for the front drive shaft and then drop the rear subframe.

The wiring is also almost complete. I need to replace a power wire for the cruise control which I cut out with the A/T components. I did trace and connect the wiring for the reverse lights which different for a M/T car. I'm also waiting on two displays for my JAW WBO2 unit. I will be using it to run my boost gauge and show my AFR within the factory cluster just underneath the tach and speedo.

On that note, one piece I haven't traced and wired yet is the tach. I haven't found a good diagram of the gauges yet.

[Galant306m]

looking good!

send me that mount so i can reweld it for you.

[eclipsh]

Thanks but: 1, I'd like to keep the piece ;) and 2, the plan is to weld it to the car which would be difficult to ship :D

I tinkered with a bit more wiring this afternoon and cleaned the car some. I also filled the clutch fluid and got most of the air out of the lines. I've got a buddy coming over tonight and hopefully we can measure for the front drive shaft while he's over. Once that is done I can drop the rear subframe, get the e-brakes working (I'll explain later) and get the gas tank in. I'll have to drop everything again later to get the carrier bearing bracket welded in but at that point I should have the car up on a lift at my buddy's house which will make it much easier to do. That will also be where I fab up my exhaust and intercooler piping.

[akamikeymo]

LOL... Your dogs are awesome.

Nick, the car is really coming along. Keep up the good work. It looks like it'll be able to take a lot of abuse (i.e. twisty roads) and keep on going.