Lately my car has been wanting to idle around 2-300 after braking for a stop sign, red light, etc... and the car actually died today. I went all winter with no problems whatsoever. It's not throwing a code, and I cannot feel any misfire at all. There's absolutely no engine hesitation while I'm moving, except for my transmission. I unhooked the battery while cleaning and oiling the K&N drop in filter (a week ago), just because that's what I usually do, then the ecu will remap the tranny shifts and such. Now after these drops in RPM, the tranny will hunt a LOT to find the correct gear at almost any speed and it will take a few seconds to stabilize and after that, it's fine and dandy, until I have to stop again.
I had the timing belt serviced a few months ago
I had a new flex pipe installed because i tore the last one up with the crappy winter
I just had my oil changed and air filter cleaned
But without a CEL I have little to go on...
-Clean the inside of the throttle body
-Make sure the throttle cable is snug and not loose
-Make sure you dont have any leaks in the intake system(loose pipe, hole in a pipe, breather line not attached)
-Check the trans fluid
What does it idle at in Park? You can raise the base idle with the BISS screw a tad.
7g for life!
when my battery was acting up I had similar symptoms. Check and clean the terminals and make sure you have a good charge
"Why fart and waste it when you can burp and taste it!"
mine does something similar. when i brake it studders like it want to stall and then comes back up in rpms. mine only dips to 400-500 ish. my mazda started doing it too
"DSM's, making people mechanics since 1985"
Originally Posted by polishmafia
I think it has to do with the fuel filter mine did that when i first got my g. Now it is doing it again so im replaceing it again... Mine actually stalls. check to see if thats it. they are cheap like 15 bucks....
mine is new
"DSM's, making people mechanics since 1985"
Mine had the problem previously, I went through a new battery, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap rotor (maintenance was due anyway) . The problem still persisted even though the car felt stronger when it was running and not stalling. I also changed out 3 IAC/FIAV from all junked 7gs. I also realized the large amount of TB's removed from 7Gs at the yard.
Cleaning the TB didn't fix the problem, but dumping the IAC altogether did. I've also heard of the EGR valve being stuck open.
edit - I also bought an EGR blockoff just in case I run into this problem at some point. The DSM EGR and IAC/FIAV plates both fit on a stock 7g.
RIP
1995 7G 4G64 / 63T DOHC Turbo
Part Out Coming Soon
In search of 2G 3000GT VR4
Daily driving
Dat '08 Cobalt Coupe
Where could i find them at? My car idles at like 1-200 rpms... but then it will rev itself up to like 1500 and then drop down to around 800. Its almost like something is getting cought in the fuel filter or the injectors and there is a back up then it blows it through and its fine.... lol wierd huh?
That's prolly it, when slapping my K&N back in, I always have a tough time with the bottom clip with my fat hands. I probably didn't get it clipped. My battery is brand new, but I'll clean up the terminals anyway. And dang, the tranny fluid is a little low, can I use the III stuff to get by or is the Mitsu stuff really that much better? The tranny was flushed and filled last year.
Fuel filter may be cheap, but my big self has to get under the car to install it, lol...
Its not under the car
its on the left side of your engine bay mounted on your firewall. Yes you need the mistu trans fluid. Thats how i blew mine. They are very finaky transmissions... Its like 7$ per quart. Go to the dealership!!!!!!
That is a bad IAC motor. The IAC(Idle Air Controller) controlls your idle when its cold. When your car is cold, it relys on the FIAV and the IAC to raise the idle to keep it running. A bad IAC will cause the idle to be irratic and go from normal idle to 1500-2000rpm.
Word of advice, I had the IAC block off plate and my car idled great. I could set the idle with the BIIS screw and didnt have the IAC to fight my adjustments. If you live in a cold climate, you may not want this plate as you may either have to hold the gas for a bit until its warm, or raise the idle higher then normal. If you raise the idle for when its cold, once the car warms up, the idle will be pretty high(500-800rpm higher then what it was when it was cold).
Just some information. I loved my blockoff plate and my car idled 10x better then it did before, but its not for everyone.
7g for life!
Like Seth said, on those cold days just don't forget about possibly holding the gas until it warms up enough to maintain itself.
1995 7G 4G64 / 63T DOHC Turbo
Part Out Coming Soon
In search of 2G 3000GT VR4
Daily driving
Dat '08 Cobalt Coupe
A lot of people said that, but I only had to give it some gas for maybe 10-15 seconds and it held itself. It was a slightly low idle, but once it warmed up, it was a normal idle. But using a remote start probably would not have worked.
7g for life!
Ok where is the iac motor located its not on the tb is it? Isnt that the tps? I dont think the blockoff plate would work for me considering i have to start my car at 5 in the morning.... I cant really be giving it gas that early.
Last edited by skrap; 03-11-2009 at 04:08 PM
iac and fiav motor are bolted directly to the bottom of the TB. you don't need to give it a ton of gas, just put your foot on it barely enough to get the rpms up
Yeah you're not flooring it for minutes on end lol. If all your TB's are like mine you'll need something along the lines of an impact driver or a good set of pliers to get those screws out that hold the IAC/FIAV to the TB. I stripped one real good before I pulled out the driver. >_<
Last edited by bmore303; 03-11-2009 at 09:22 PM
1995 7G 4G64 / 63T DOHC Turbo
Part Out Coming Soon
In search of 2G 3000GT VR4
Daily driving
Dat '08 Cobalt Coupe
All bolts on my TB stripped, and i didnt have impact driver. I got a drill bit with the size of the bolt head and drilled all heads only. The bottom part just fell, then used vise grips for the bolt remainings and then I put new bolts in there
Topped off my tranny fluid and I was right in assuming the airbox was not securely clamped. However, the problem still persists, but worse now. Now it won't idle above 200 at all, yesterday and earlier today if I tossed it into neutral, the revs would go up to roughly where they should be 8-900 ish, that's how I kept it going and not dying, now even when I stick it in neutral it still hovers around 200 and dies if I don't keep my foot on the gas.
Disconnect the plug for your IAC and see if anything changes. Check for any leaks in your intake system. A leak before the MAS will not affect your performance, a leak after the MAS will.
7g for life!
OK where could i find the iac blockoff plate at? How much would i be looking at?
Posting Rules
Log in
Register
Reply With Quote
1997 Mitsubishi Galant DE
Bookmarks