Car audio problem...

**HungarianHunter** · 03-18-2009, 11:53 PM

Alright cool guys, so just makes sure that the RMS is withing the sub's RMS, and the impedance matches? Anything else?

Thanks a lot for the info :D

**HungarianHunter** · 03-19-2009, 02:51 AM

I noticed a little symbol on the sub box where the +/- wires go, its like a little upside down U, kinda like a bridge lookin thing, and has 2 by it. Is this 2 ohms?

And why has my amp worked with the subs for 5 months??

**djakay** · 03-19-2009, 08:17 AM

Originally Posted by HungarianHunter

I noticed a little symbol on the sub box where the +/- wires go, its like a little upside down U, kinda like a bridge lookin thing, and has 2 by it. Is this 2 ohms?

And why has my amp worked with the subs for 5 months??

you mean 2Ω << like that?

can you take a pic of the contacts on your sub?

and your sub has 2 versions A and D one is 2 ohm and another is 4 Ohm

http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...Hammer4500.cfm

**littlerick** · 03-19-2009, 06:16 PM

i'm thinking your needing a new amp. sounds like you had 2, 2 ohm subs so you were pulling 1 ohm from the amp and it finally gave out. if you only wire up 1 sub does it work?

**HungarianHunter** · 03-19-2009, 07:36 PM

Yes, that's the symbol. Should I try unhooking one sub?

**littlerick** · 03-19-2009, 08:32 PM

i would if the amp is 2 ohm stable and each sub is 2 ohm then it would be the correct match. do you have 1 hookup for for both subs or do you have just one hook up for both subs? if its only 1 hook up for both subs then its probably 2 ohm for both subs but if each sub has 2 ohm on it your at 1 ohm

**biggie6924** · 03-19-2009, 09:26 PM

You can only run 1 2ohm sub off of that amp, you could run 2 8 ohm subs bridged together for a 4 ohm load, or just run 2, 4 ohm speakers. If you go to the jl web site, go to mobile audio then support, and click on tutorials it shoudl help explain ohms a little bit if you don't understand it. But either way i would ditch the dual amp

**HungarianHunter** · 05-01-2009, 12:59 AM

Could someone link me an amp that will handle these subs, for around 200$? Something that has a reputable name, but won't make my wallet cry?

Thanks!

**showtime** · 05-01-2009, 01:15 AM

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+MRP-M500.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...r+ZX400.1.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...der+X500D.html

there are 3 that are very nice amps!!! I had the alpine and that thing has some crazy power. My friend has that amp, and the same subs as yours and it sounds amazing (his box is different though, damn trucks)

**HungarianHunter** · 05-01-2009, 09:05 AM

So guys, this is my sub setup:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...paign=froogle#

Says they are 4ohm subs, but are wired for 2 ohms.

So, if that is right, then will this amp work with them, as showtime said?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...der+X500D.html

**djakay** · 05-01-2009, 09:18 AM

Originally Posted by HungarianHunter

So guys, this is my sub setup:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...paign=froogle#

Says they are 4ohm subs, but are wired for 2 ohms.

So, if that is right, then will this amp work with them, as showtime said?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...der+X500D.html

looks good to me

**showtime** · 05-01-2009, 09:35 AM

yup.

**jpyounis1** · 05-01-2009, 10:59 AM

small tip, check your ground anyway. i had a kenwood 7203 amp (1000W) and it was almost like after about 5-8mths it would get "tired of the ground" and i had to switch bolts and it would be fine after.

after further investigating, this was in my old 99 galant, i had the amp grounded to the bolt on the taillight, i found that a microscopic layer of moisture had built up and was causing a short against the steel.

Make sure the bolt is tight, and use some sand paper to clear the paint off (after i did that i never had the issue again)

**ADExternal** · 05-01-2009, 01:46 PM

also, make sure your amp is correct setting, it wouldnt make sense to have LP on and high freq....unfortunately my amp was doing that for 2 days and was the reason why my amp heated up faster then it was suppose to. making sure people dont make the same stupid mistake i did.

**01blackG** · 05-02-2009, 10:14 AM

First make sure the subs and amp are hooked up in a standard wiring format. Neg to Neg and positive to positive. Also check the wires in the box going from the wire harness to the speaker its self, make sure the wires didnt come loose. I have had the same problem before and what happened is the speakers actually took a dump. It is cheaper to replace speakers then it is to get a decent amp. Being that the amp is going into protect mode it sounds like the amp is still working fine. It almost sounds like the speakers are internally damaged. Like the voice coils are making contact inside the magnet.

Do you have a friend that might have a system also? Or speakers that you know are good. I recommed testing the amp with some other speakers before replacing it. You could even test it with 6x9 as long as the amp's gain and the volume are turned way down when testing. Dont do it with the 6x9 in your car though. Use an extra trashy set that you will never be using again. If the speakers turn on and run fine then it is the sub's that are blown. If it repeats the same thing with the test speakers as it did when you had you sub's hooked up then it is the amp. that is blown. You have a pretty closly matched up system as far as watts goes. So it is a little hard to tell weather it is the speakers or the amp.

And never bridge a system unless you are running a single sub that is really big. If you need more thump just up grade to something bigger. Bridging a system is really hard on the amp. no matter what your opinions/thoughts are about doing it.

As for the ohms you can have them a bit miss matched only thing is the amp can either blow the speakers or the speakers can blow the amp. after a prolong time of play.

**youngin3** · 05-02-2009, 10:34 AM

I would go ahead and replace the amp anyways. That is pretty much the cheapest amp you can easily get your hands on other than the Sony Xplod ones.

It probably only pushes a quarter of what it's rating is, maybe a third.

**HungarianHunter** · 05-02-2009, 03:17 PM

Originally Posted by youngin3

I would go ahead and replace the amp anyways. That is pretty much the cheapest amp you can easily get your hands on other than the Sony Xplod ones.

It probably only pushes a quarter of what it's rating is, maybe a third.

The one I have, or the one I'm looking at getting?