96 galant motor swap into my 94

[peanotation]

Well I've been MIA that last week or so because of a busy work schedule and I've been stressing about my car. On Saturday, March 14th, I was about 50miles from home about 2 miles from my exit going to a job, cruising around 65mph on the highway, when my front end started shaking intermittently. I pulled over as fast as I could and killed the motor. After some snooping around, I cranked the motor back up and it couldn't hold idle. When I would give it gas to keep it alive, it was rough and barely driveable.

Long story short, my #2 cylinder can barely hold 20psi. Adding oil and redoing a compression check I can maybe get 40psi out of it. Piston is shot. Moderate signs of coolant in the oil as well. I had to drive it home, and literally 50ft from my garage the thing felt like it blew up. Lots of metal clunking sounds, more bad noises, tons of shaking. Aweful. This motor has bit the dust!



My car is a 94 with 196,000 miles on original motor. I never hit 200K!!!!! I've been through nitrous and a turbocharger with this thing, it was born and raised in Miami, FL for almost 12 years, it has seen the snowy lands of New Jersey for a couple years, and carried me all through high school in San Diego, CA. My father purchased the car brand new in 1994 and took immaculate care of it. When I got my license at 16 it was mine and he got a new car.

I swore I would never leave this car until it's completely wrecked in an accident, and I'm sure as hell not going to leave it now. Times are tough, money is lower than ever, and work is more rare than food in Africa, but this car has carried me through my life and it deserves every bit of care it wants.

So I picked up a 96 galant motor from the local mitsu wrecking yard. It has 112K miles and compression is 200/175/200/175 on the cylinders.



On the left is a 4G64 DOHC block (DOHC head not pictured); DOHCStunr's original motor from his black GS. The cylinders are already overbored 0.010".

Middle is my car with the currently broken 1994 4G64 SOHC.

On the right is my new 1996 4G64 SOHC. Complete working motor with injectors and intake/exhaust manifolds.

Ahead of me is a long week of pulling the old motor and in with the new. I will be posting pictures and notes as I go along of the differences between the 94 and 96. So far I know the 96 is an OBD2 block with a map sensor on the intake plenum. Mitsubishi part# MD305600.



I do not have this sensor and plan on swapping my old intake manifold over, as the vacuum lines are slightly different as well. According to mitsu this sensor only came on cars 96 and newer, so I'm sure this wouldn't work with my shitbag of an ECU anyways.

I've also noticed there is a crank angle sensor at the crank on this 96 motor; I know the 94's crank angle sensor is built into the distributor along with the cam angle sensor. Seth has informed the distributors are different and I have to swap mine over anyways.

Does anyone know of any other potential differences and problems?

[Galant306m]

turbo it again.

[DOHCstunr]

lets Keep this on topic.

[mko]

you got it all right. just put that sucker in and swap the distributor.

[mysticj]

How come you didn't decide to rebuilt the DOHC block? Are you still SOHC?

[4-G-rim]

There is no real significant differences between the 94-95 and 96-98 4G64's SOHC other than the MAP sensor on the intake and the Crank sensor being triggered at the crank with a plate.

I woudl assume just swapping out the 94-95 distributor and intake manifold would have you set and all ready to go. I believe there might be a difference in the exhaust header but I can't truly confirm that.

[mko]

thres a little difference in the flange after the 4 cyl runners, but thats no biggie

[peanotation]

Well I started on tuesday and just finished last night. The new motor feels good, but the clutch is done. I don't know if it's the flywheel/pressureplate are too heat scorched, cause the clutch still has significant material left on it, but one of the springs in the clutch's center hub is loosey goosey.






What do you guys think about that clutch, re-usable? I was going to get a whole new fw/pp/clutch combo next week and redo it anyways, hoping my current setup would last till then, but i don't know. The clutch pedal engages right off the floor now, and it's never done that before. Also, after I torqued the pressure plate bolts down, the teeth still weren't flat, so I know the clutch isn't engaging properly.

MKO you were right about the header, different design/style. Had to swap mine over:




Gangsta yo


Here's what's really wierd, wtf would cause this!?!?!

When I took the tranny off this is what I found inside the bellhousing. I assume the pressure plate did this, since it's the closest thing to the rubber boot. How could it reach that far and tear it up? Also, what gives with the entire inside of the housing coated in grease/oil? The crank seal was in good condition.....no oil there



I'm hearing a wierd knocking noise coming from the bellhousing when the car is idling. I know it's not the motor for sure, the only way I can hear it is if I put my ear right to the bottom of the bell housing, I wonder if it's the pressure plate going back to work on tearing that boot up.

Think this will last till wednesday? I'm working on an important gig until then, need clutch to hold out for a little while longer :(

[seth98esT]

Id take the flywheel to a machienshop, have them resurface it and make sure the stepping is within spec, then get a new clutch disc, pressure plate, OEM tob, and pivot ball.

Your disc doesnt look bad, take a look at a completely shot disc:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...T/DSCF1018.jpg

Pressure plate:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...DSCF1022-1.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...T/DSCF1023.jpg

Mine flywheel had some bad heatspots, dunno if its as bad as yours. Before:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...T/DSCF1021.jpg

After resurface:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...T/DSCF1025.jpg

[kolio]

my 97 headers look like the 94's.

[peanotation]

i would re-use my disc, but the only thing that bugs me is one of the springs in the center hub is pretty loose. and considering it's only $125 for the sbr disc, i'd rather be safe than sorry.

as for the flywheel, looks like i'll have to resurface mine anyways. i was looking to save some money and get an OE replacement one from the retards at autozone, but the one they gave me is about 3 feet deep and i honestly can't see the flywheel bolts being long enough to get through this POS.

only reason i was scared to resurface the flywheel was after reading RRE's page on flywheel stepping. poor machine shops won't make it even, as in the center will be deeper than the outside of the friction surface. granted, i doubt they'll be miles off, but i went the $100 cheapo OE alternative route and i got what i paid for. CRAP.

[seth98esT]

Like I said earlier, if your not in a huge hurry and your car still drives, get a refund on the junker az flywheel and grab a Fidanza off ebay for $180 shipped.

[peanotation]

yeah, gonna take flywheel back tmrw unless my other thread asking for length gets a reply by tmrw night

[97dsmturbogalant]

Good to see your fixing the g bro. Allways liked your car but never got the chance to talk to you. I have looked over your website and it's been a huge help in getting my 94 in shape. Was going to get ahold of you when I was living in victorville (shit, ghettoville), but never got the chance to. Would love to see you turbo'd again with the gs setup. I'm getting my gs setup in order to swap it over.

[Gly]

re: knocking noise/oil in bell housing

could be a bearing in the gearbox..

i had a input shaft bearing go in the gearbox once,
made a nice grinding noise (and a bit of a knock when it first went)
and it chewed up the input shaft seal and the gearbox fluid made its way into thebell housing