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  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by RedGalant2k1 View Post
    I've service thousands of cars for trans fluid FLUSHES with no ill effects. A full flush properly services and re-lubricates your transmission components. There are friction modifiers in the trans fluid (just like your engine oil) that degrade over time, and should be flushed completely out regularly (every 30-40,000 miles preferably). 64k is high, but still considered ok to properly flush. 75k-100k is starting to push the limit of safely flushable vehicles. Fluid that old has often become laden with small metal particles (from normal wear) and the oil has lost its friction properties that are now made up by these metal particles in the transmission fluid.
    i have just over 100k miles, so its not a good idea to service my transmission?

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by tamim13 View Post
    I don't believe this, are you being serious???
    yes, I am being serious... why wouldn't I be?
    Jigz-TGCIL Sosick Motorsports

    R.I.P. Christopher "CRAZY CHRIS" Beckmann
    "you dont appreciate friendship until you lose your bestfriend...."
    I'd rather have the knowledge and ability to do it than the money to buy it already done.

  3. #23
    You are here entirely tooo much!! 9G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4g63lover View Post
    yes, I am being serious... why wouldn't I be?
    because drain and fill is completely fine.

    ive been doing it every 15k miles. im at 70k miles now.

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by TexasMade View Post
    i have just over 100k miles, so its not a good idea to service my transmission?
    I would be weary to suggest a trans fluid flush at that mileage if never serviced previously. That is unless you overhauled the transmission completely.

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by karn View Post
    wooot i got everything done

    mobil 1 synthetic with mobil 1 filter
    tranny flush +fluid
    fuel system flush
    power steering flush

    and pro-quick lube dropped my price from 225 to 173

    what a nice guy man!! im a loyal customer my car feels like the first time i drove it at the dealer.... soooo niceeee and smoooth and no more steering wheel shake at stopes! i thought it was my rotors which i am changing soon too!..

    trust me fuel system works. :) im soo happy i spent the money it was worth it.
    don't forget the timing belt and water pump at 60K too.

  6. #26
    every 15k can be a drain and fill, every 30k dealer recommends a complete tranny flush. thats how i follow it...if your low on money go head and do a drain and fill... just try to save up next time.
    uhhhh...... Whats a 9g???


  7. #27
    TGC Regular youngin3's Avatar
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    Some cars have transmissions that are just better left alone.

    I agree with not using pennzoil. I have seen cars come in with a motor that will not run because there is so much paraffin wax on the inside of it from pennzoil.

    I would stick with Mobil1, Havoline or something else.

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by RedGalant2k1 View Post
    I would be weary to suggest a trans fluid flush at that mileage if never serviced previously. That is unless you overhauled the transmission completely.
    is it the "flush" process that potentially causes problems? what about just draining and replacing fluid? or should i just let it be and not do anyting. I have never done anything to the tranny before.
    Last edited by TexasMade; 04-08-2009 at 10:39 AM

  9. #29
    texas.. i doubt you can just drain tranny flush and replace it... cuz when i had my flush done the other day they didnt literally flush it.. they attached a machine which takes some fluid out and replaces it with new one with mitsubishi additive in it.. and yeah 30-40k miless is when i shuld of done my first flush.. 65k was lil over but it wasnt bad :) 100k im sure u shuld just get the tranny opened the filter changed.
    I love bikes n babes!

  10. #30
    Sorry not really read the whole thread.

    With regards to the transmission fluid, if they are anything like mine, then yes you need to put decent oil and it really does need flushing. You dont need to take it to a garage to flush there are a few ways of doing it

    Firstly get some good ATF fluid, now I will take a guess here, but you want either of the following
    Mitsi DIA Queen SPIII
    Amsoil ATF fluid
    or Hyundai SPIII as this is the DIA Queen relabled, if you can pick this up, its much cheaper than mitsi

    Now I know 2 ways to flush the gearbox, one is the cheap way but could end up expensive, and one is the expensive way but less likely to be really expensive

    First way, need 2 people, this is not a one man job
    Jack car up put on axle stands make sure it is solid and sturdy and wont fall
    Empty gearbox
    With a hose pipe attach this to the filler neck of the gear box
    start the car and put it in drive
    the other person should now start pouring the ATF fluid through the hose pipe, straight through gearbox, also use reverse aswell
    the idea is, the oil is being used to clear the gearbox out so it has fresh oil running in and straight back out
    IMPORTANT! If you get this wrong and you end up with little oil in the gearbox it WILL kill itself, its very hard to do, please be aware off this


    Second way is easier, but you need more oil, hence more expensive

    Jack car up, axle stands
    Drain the gearbox put sump plug back in,
    pour in 5 litres or so of ATF fluid,
    start car
    then go through all the gears with the car running (reverse and drive) no need to rev it etc just let hte oil flow through
    turn car off
    Drain oil out
    Repeat

    this way is less likely to kill your gearbox but you will need more oil about 10-15 litres to do this, when the oil is draining clean and shiney all new, this should be done, sort out the oil level


    Just replacing the oil wont do anything, you will still have about 1 litre maybe 2 litres still stuck inside the box

    The first method is the best, but if you starve that gearbox of oil, it will kill itself quickly something I avoid doing

    Good oil is also a key, Amsoil ATF fluid is probably the best to go for, expensive, but it lasts so long, its the only thing apart from dia queen to use in the VR4 tiptronic boxes

    hope this helps

  11. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by karn View Post
    texas.. i doubt you can just drain tranny flush and replace it... cuz when i had my flush done the other day they didnt literally flush it.. they attached a machine which takes some fluid out and replaces it with new one with mitsubishi additive in it.. and yeah 30-40k miless is when i shuld of done my first flush.. 65k was lil over but it wasnt bad :) 100k im sure u shuld just get the tranny opened the filter changed.
    Yes, a flush is best, and really the most proper trans service you can do.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kyleg View Post
    Sorry not really read the whole thread.

    With regards to the transmission fluid, if they are anything like mine, then yes you need to put decent oil and it really does need flushing. You dont need to take it to a garage to flush there are a few ways of doing it

    Firstly get some good ATF fluid, now I will take a guess here, but you want either of the following
    Mitsi DIA Queen SPIII
    Amsoil ATF fluid
    or Hyundai SPIII as this is the DIA Queen relabled, if you can pick this up, its much cheaper than mitsi

    Now I know 2 ways to flush the gearbox, one is the cheap way but could end up expensive, and one is the expensive way but less likely to be really expensive

    First way, need 2 people, this is not a one man job
    Jack car up put on axle stands make sure it is solid and sturdy and wont fall
    Empty gearbox
    With a hose pipe attach this to the filler neck of the gear box
    start the car and put it in drive
    the other person should now start pouring the ATF fluid through the hose pipe, straight through gearbox, also use reverse aswell
    the idea is, the oil is being used to clear the gearbox out so it has fresh oil running in and straight back out
    IMPORTANT! If you get this wrong and you end up with little oil in the gearbox it WILL kill itself, its very hard to do, please be aware off this


    Second way is easier, but you need more oil, hence more expensive

    Jack car up, axle stands
    Drain the gearbox put sump plug back in,
    pour in 5 litres or so of ATF fluid,
    start car
    then go through all the gears with the car running (reverse and drive) no need to rev it etc just let hte oil flow through
    turn car off
    Drain oil out
    Repeat

    this way is less likely to kill your gearbox but you will need more oil about 10-15 litres to do this, when the oil is draining clean and shiney all new, this should be done, sort out the oil level


    Just replacing the oil wont do anything, you will still have about 1 litre maybe 2 litres still stuck inside the box

    The first method is the best, but if you starve that gearbox of oil, it will kill itself quickly something I avoid doing

    Good oil is also a key, Amsoil ATF fluid is probably the best to go for, expensive, but it lasts so long, its the only thing apart from dia queen to use in the VR4 tiptronic boxes

    hope this helps
    Better off just letting the professionals and those who have the proper equipment do the service over risking your drivetrain.

  12. #32
    If your competant enough to give it a go, the second one is the best to go for, and no different to really changing the oil in the engine :)

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4g63lover View Post
    you don't want to do that to an auto trans, unless you wanna say goodbye to it.

    if you drain the ATF you have to flush it. Or you will risk blowing up the tranny.
    Not true. There is nothing wrong with draining fluid. Flushing is what usually causes problems in cars with higher mileage.

  14. #34
    I think mitsi ATF fluid change is 80k miles anyways or 60k miles, at 100k miles I dont think it would do anything bad, and with mitsi boxes its usually bad or old fluid that kills them

    Draining the fluid out and replacing it wont make much difference, a full fluid flush with good fluids like AMsoil ATF fluid in it should be fine, but using poor fluids like dexron 3 or 4 is not good :)

  15. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyleg View Post
    I think mitsi ATF fluid change is 80k miles anyways or 60k miles, at 100k miles I dont think it would do anything bad, and with mitsi boxes its usually bad or old fluid that kills them

    Draining the fluid out and replacing it wont make much difference, a full fluid flush with good fluids like AMsoil ATF fluid in it should be fine, but using poor fluids like dexron 3 or 4 is not good :)
    Quote Originally Posted by 6G72Galant View Post
    Not true. There is nothing wrong with draining fluid. Flushing is what usually causes problems in cars with higher mileage.

    You are both wrong. A drain and fill is a incomplete service at best. A power flush machine can hold any necessary vacuum, and pressure that these systems need to function properly. A drain and fill on your transmission only removes 1/3 to 1/2 of the actual amount of transmission fluid in the car at any one time. That is besides the fact that it leaves you with some fluid that is lacking its necessary friction modifiers that assist the clutch plate/packs in gripping the flywheel for proper shifting.

    You also have to understand the particular type of transmission fluid necessary for our cars. Any synthetic trans fluid is NOT the right way to go about things. Mitsubishi fluid if memory serves is much like Dextron 4. But even still I wouldn't put any old trans fluid in the system. That is the perfect remedy for destruction of your transmission. I would make sure AMSoil ATF is compatible with mitsubishi fluid specs, and even still as much as I like AMSoil motor oil, I'd still be weary to put anything but OE trans fluid in the car.

    Old transmission fluid clogs the valve body, the filter, the torque converter, among other things internal to the transmission. It needs to be flushed on a regular basis, a drain and fill to reiterate, is NOT adequate.

  16. #36
    You guys are kind of scaring me. I honestly know nothing about the transmission, and didn't think it could be bad to go get it flushed. I bought my car when it had close to 60K on it, and was under the impression that it had been properly serviced, but looking back, I now can't find the records, so I don't actually know what was done and what wasn't. I have just over 100K now. Am I going to mess up my car by going to get a transmission flush if it turns out it never got serviced before?
    })({ Heather })({

    - "If you never take risks, you'll have a wasted soul."

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedGalant2k1 View Post
    You are both wrong. A drain and fill is a incomplete service at best. A power flush machine can hold any necessary vacuum, and pressure that these systems need to function properly. A drain and fill on your transmission only removes 1/3 to 1/2 of the actual amount of transmission fluid in the car at any one time. That is besides the fact that it leaves you with some fluid that is lacking its necessary friction modifiers that assist the clutch plate/packs in gripping the flywheel for proper shifting.

    You also have to understand the particular type of transmission fluid necessary for our cars. Any synthetic trans fluid is NOT the right way to go about things. Mitsubishi fluid if memory serves is much like Dextron 4. But even still I wouldn't put any old trans fluid in the system. That is the perfect remedy for destruction of your transmission. I would make sure AMSoil ATF is compatible with mitsubishi fluid specs, and even still as much as I like AMSoil motor oil, I'd still be weary to put anything but OE trans fluid in the car.

    Old transmission fluid clogs the valve body, the filter, the torque converter, among other things internal to the transmission. It needs to be flushed on a regular basis, a drain and fill to reiterate, is NOT adequate.
    So what is your suggestion for someone with over 100k and never changed trans. fluid before? Flush? Because i was always told its drain and fill. Even with engine oil and high mileage, its always best to drain and fill. Start adding all those "flushes" and then you run the risk of causing sludge to break free and form clogs in small passages.

    IMO, flushing is only good when done on a regular basis from when the car is first purchased. Flushing high mileage cars is risky. Ive seen plenty of people come into my P/T job and my old job complaining about how their car ran like poo after having a flush.

    Flushing anything on a high mileage car is RISKY.:smt074

  18. #38
    Senior Moderator DOHCstunr's Avatar
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    i'm not against replacing p/s fluid.
    but.... I'm going on what? 15 years and 200,000 chassis miles on the original fluid and parts. I even deleted the p/s cooler almost 2 years ago.
    no problems whatsoever. same as on my black GS, and my green ES

    how much is a p/s flush? I'd just drain and fill it if it really bothered you.
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  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by DOHCstunr View Post
    i'm not against replacing p/s fluid.
    but.... I'm going on what? 15 years and 200,000 chassis miles on the original fluid and parts. I even deleted the p/s cooler almost 2 years ago.
    no problems whatsoever. same as on my black GS, and my green ES

    how much is a p/s flush? I'd just drain and fill it if it really bothered you.
    Same here, well almost. Ive got 143k on my trans. and never flushed it or drained it and have had no issues at all. Other than some slippage which was attributed to the shot motor/trans. mount, its been running smooth ever since.

  20. #40
    RadRICH - TGC Founder BGR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6G72Galant View Post
    Same here, well almost. Ive got 143k on my trans. and never flushed it or drained it and have had no issues at all. Other than some slippage which was attributed to the shot motor/trans. mount, its been running smooth ever since.
    I'm not one to talk as I don't replace or flush the fluids as often as the manual states, but IMO, when it comes to servicing the transmission or the power steering (like what DOHCStunner is talking about), I would say the transmission is far more important and should be attended to just like when you change your oil (not at the same intervals, but at least do it once every couple years or so). I mean, the steering mechanism only moves only so much and so far, whereas the gears in the transmission are moving extremely fast and connecting with each other as the transmission automatically moves between gears; A lot more contact and wear in the transmission. I've had mine done 3 times over the last 9 years.

    Edit -
    Let me rephrase that. The power steering is import, too, however, unless there is severe damage, you'll still be able to steer the car - albeit maybe it won't have power assist.

    Myself, I wouldn't even be too concerned with the power steering unless I had a PS fluid leak, in which I would have 1) have it checked, and 2) be prepared to have the pump replaced. I already experienced this with my Sentra.

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