Some cars have transmissions that are just better left alone.
I agree with not using pennzoil. I have seen cars come in with a motor that will not run because there is so much paraffin wax on the inside of it from pennzoil.
I would stick with Mobil1, Havoline or something else.
texas.. i doubt you can just drain tranny flush and replace it... cuz when i had my flush done the other day they didnt literally flush it.. they attached a machine which takes some fluid out and replaces it with new one with mitsubishi additive in it.. and yeah 30-40k miless is when i shuld of done my first flush.. 65k was lil over but it wasnt bad :) 100k im sure u shuld just get the tranny opened the filter changed.
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Sorry not really read the whole thread.
With regards to the transmission fluid, if they are anything like mine, then yes you need to put decent oil and it really does need flushing. You dont need to take it to a garage to flush there are a few ways of doing it
Firstly get some good ATF fluid, now I will take a guess here, but you want either of the following
Mitsi DIA Queen SPIII
Amsoil ATF fluid
or Hyundai SPIII as this is the DIA Queen relabled, if you can pick this up, its much cheaper than mitsi
Now I know 2 ways to flush the gearbox, one is the cheap way but could end up expensive, and one is the expensive way but less likely to be really expensive
First way, need 2 people, this is not a one man job
Jack car up put on axle stands make sure it is solid and sturdy and wont fall
Empty gearbox
With a hose pipe attach this to the filler neck of the gear box
start the car and put it in drive
the other person should now start pouring the ATF fluid through the hose pipe, straight through gearbox, also use reverse aswell
the idea is, the oil is being used to clear the gearbox out so it has fresh oil running in and straight back out
IMPORTANT! If you get this wrong and you end up with little oil in the gearbox it WILL kill itself, its very hard to do, please be aware off this
Second way is easier, but you need more oil, hence more expensive
Jack car up, axle stands
Drain the gearbox put sump plug back in,
pour in 5 litres or so of ATF fluid,
start car
then go through all the gears with the car running (reverse and drive) no need to rev it etc just let hte oil flow through
turn car off
Drain oil out
Repeat
this way is less likely to kill your gearbox but you will need more oil about 10-15 litres to do this, when the oil is draining clean and shiney all new, this should be done, sort out the oil level
Just replacing the oil wont do anything, you will still have about 1 litre maybe 2 litres still stuck inside the box
The first method is the best, but if you starve that gearbox of oil, it will kill itself quickly something I avoid doing
Good oil is also a key, Amsoil ATF fluid is probably the best to go for, expensive, but it lasts so long, its the only thing apart from dia queen to use in the VR4 tiptronic boxes
hope this helps
If your competant enough to give it a go, the second one is the best to go for, and no different to really changing the oil in the engine :)
I think mitsi ATF fluid change is 80k miles anyways or 60k miles, at 100k miles I dont think it would do anything bad, and with mitsi boxes its usually bad or old fluid that kills them
Draining the fluid out and replacing it wont make much difference, a full fluid flush with good fluids like AMsoil ATF fluid in it should be fine, but using poor fluids like dexron 3 or 4 is not good :)
You are both wrong. A drain and fill is a incomplete service at best. A power flush machine can hold any necessary vacuum, and pressure that these systems need to function properly. A drain and fill on your transmission only removes 1/3 to 1/2 of the actual amount of transmission fluid in the car at any one time. That is besides the fact that it leaves you with some fluid that is lacking its necessary friction modifiers that assist the clutch plate/packs in gripping the flywheel for proper shifting.
You also have to understand the particular type of transmission fluid necessary for our cars. Any synthetic trans fluid is NOT the right way to go about things. Mitsubishi fluid if memory serves is much like Dextron 4. But even still I wouldn't put any old trans fluid in the system. That is the perfect remedy for destruction of your transmission. I would make sure AMSoil ATF is compatible with mitsubishi fluid specs, and even still as much as I like AMSoil motor oil, I'd still be weary to put anything but OE trans fluid in the car.
Old transmission fluid clogs the valve body, the filter, the torque converter, among other things internal to the transmission. It needs to be flushed on a regular basis, a drain and fill to reiterate, is NOT adequate.
You guys are kind of scaring me. I honestly know nothing about the transmission, and didn't think it could be bad to go get it flushed. I bought my car when it had close to 60K on it, and was under the impression that it had been properly serviced, but looking back, I now can't find the records, so I don't actually know what was done and what wasn't. I have just over 100K now. Am I going to mess up my car by going to get a transmission flush if it turns out it never got serviced before?
})({ Heather })({
- "If you never take risks, you'll have a wasted soul."
So what is your suggestion for someone with over 100k and never changed trans. fluid before? Flush? Because i was always told its drain and fill. Even with engine oil and high mileage, its always best to drain and fill. Start adding all those "flushes" and then you run the risk of causing sludge to break free and form clogs in small passages.
IMO, flushing is only good when done on a regular basis from when the car is first purchased. Flushing high mileage cars is risky. Ive seen plenty of people come into my P/T job and my old job complaining about how their car ran like poo after having a flush.
Flushing anything on a high mileage car is RISKY.:smt074
i'm not against replacing p/s fluid.
but.... I'm going on what? 15 years and 200,000 chassis miles on the original fluid and parts. I even deleted the p/s cooler almost 2 years ago.
no problems whatsoever. same as on my black GS, and my green ES
how much is a p/s flush? I'd just drain and fill it if it really bothered you.
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1994 Galant GS-Turbo
I'm not one to talk as I don't replace or flush the fluids as often as the manual states, but IMO, when it comes to servicing the transmission or the power steering (like what DOHCStunner is talking about), I would say the transmission is far more important and should be attended to just like when you change your oil (not at the same intervals, but at least do it once every couple years or so). I mean, the steering mechanism only moves only so much and so far, whereas the gears in the transmission are moving extremely fast and connecting with each other as the transmission automatically moves between gears; A lot more contact and wear in the transmission. I've had mine done 3 times over the last 9 years.
Edit -
Let me rephrase that. The power steering is import, too, however, unless there is severe damage, you'll still be able to steer the car - albeit maybe it won't have power assist.
Myself, I wouldn't even be too concerned with the power steering unless I had a PS fluid leak, in which I would have 1) have it checked, and 2) be prepared to have the pump replaced. I already experienced this with my Sentra.
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